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Wilwoods, AZC VS JSK


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so I got the JSK wilwood setup, been sitting on the shelf for months, I finally get started and find that the rears won't clear my wheels, it looks like the AZC hat is much thicker pushould the wheel out away from the caliper, the problem is this might mean my CCW's are no longer the correct offset, just wondering if I'm missing somethings or does both of these kits require you ro run a higher offset wheel in the rear to clean the caliper?

 

and I havn't evne started ont he fronts.....

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My JSK rears stick out ~.5" or less, same with the fronts. Should clear Watanabes and most other wheels. How much caliper clearance do you have measured at ~5.5" radius?

 

Sounds like you also have the old hats. I think the original mockup was done on a car with Honda adapters and then he figured out that it wasn't going to work on cars without them. The newer hats are ~1.25" deep I'd guess, maybe 1.5".

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ugh, well I couldn't sleep not knowing if the CCW's would clear, they clear but just barely, like maybe 1/16", hella tight, I worry about heating and binding getting things to the point of contact, I wish I had known when I ordered my CCW's over a year ago my future break upgrade would change the rear offset! if I change to the newer hats my wheels will need new centers machined, spacers move the wheel out even further, which is not what I want, I'm considering grinding a bit off the dynalites to gain a bit more clearnace, thoughts?

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I have the original hats, but I do run the adapters and wheels with negative offset. He made hats and mounts for the rear the just move the caliper and rotor inward, which does not affect wheel offset at all. A thin spacer should give you that little bit of clearance, if you have the space between the tire & fender lip.

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Dynalites... My JSK setup uses Superlites? Just a typo? I think AZC uses Dynalite.

JSK doesn't sell the calipers, at least he didn't when I ordered them. I'm using Dynalites in the back and Superlites in front.

 

Gary is right. A thin slip on lug-centric spacer sounds like the best way to fix this problem.

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JSK doesn't sell the calipers, at least he didn't when I ordered them. I'm using Dynalites in the back and Superlites in front.

 

Gary is right. A thin slip on lug-centric spacer sounds like the best way to fix this problem.

 

Ahhh. I see, I didn't know either worked.

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I would think the new hats wouldn't change the offset of the wheel... merely the rotor and thus the caliper would need a new bracket. I think.

the AZC hats are thicker on the face, which moves the whele out away frm the car, to keep the wheel in the same position reletive tot he car would require a higher offset wheel

 

Not a good plan. They will most likely fail.

 

Cary

I'd think there would be enough meat to shave a bit for clearance, I was under the impression that these things were almost solid and had lots of extra meat?

 

Dynalites... My JSK setup uses Superlites? Just a typo? I think AZC uses Dynalite.

 

yeah sorry got confused, they are superlites all around

 

I have the original hats, but I do run the adapters and wheels with negative offset. He made hats and mounts for the rear the just move the caliper and rotor inward, which does not affect wheel offset at all. A thin spacer should give you that little bit of clearance, if you have the space between the tire & fender lip.

I just assumed any newer hats would just be thicker on the hub surface like the AZC hats, my kit is only a couple of months old so I'd think I have the "new" setup?

 

JSK doesn't sell the calipers, at least he didn't when I ordered them. I'm using Dynalites in the back and Superlites in front.

 

Gary is right. A thin slip on lug-centric spacer sounds like the best way to fix this problem.

 

again I hate the thought of a spacer as this moves my wheels out further, something I'd rather not do, I'd rather have new centers machined

 

kyr-dave.jpg

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I don't think I am understanding the issue correctly. Your CCW's are almost touching the calipers, correct? You do not want more spacing between the wheel and hub face than there already is, right? Thus the resolution is a deeper offset hat (which I believe is the new kit, where as the old one had less of an offset) and accompanying mounting bracket. Correct?

 

Or is the difference in offset between the old and new JSK hats actually come from a thicker aluminum hat. I don't think that would make much sense, but it is possible. I would think that JSK could just make you a hat with more offset and an accompanying bracket. Albeit at more cost.

 

Ignoring the E-Brake caliper and such, the drawing below is a true representation of the JSK kit I have. The green highlighted face is the face to simply move farther in board and then obviously the hat would have to be offset more, but the thickness of the actual mounting surface would not need to be changed...

 

Untitled-2-7.jpg

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I understand but I just goe the things fomr him a couple of months ago, he's been making them for years , I assume I have the "new" ones, I'll have to e-mail juan and figure out what hat sizes he made

 

I would say you do, as I remember when I got my setup from him some 3 years ago, he just started to work on the setup that will work with standard offset wheels. My rear hats are only 3/4" from the mounting surface for the wheel to the mounting surface of the rotor to the hat. Your hats should be thicker.

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evildky,

 

I just got a set of JSK rear hats, however they were his last set, and the inner inside hole looks like its been taken to with a dremel to get the chamfer. What is the distance from the outside of the hat, to the rotor mounting surface? Mine is 31.75mm (1 1/4").

 

This is a lot less than the offset requied for a Dynalite (http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/019-FDL/mouting.gif - upper left) : 43.4mm

the Superlite (http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/fl179.pdf) : 54.6mm

and what I wish to run, the Outlaw 2800

(http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/support/2800draw.gif) : 48.3mm

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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