Anyone seen this big brake kit?

[Mensaf]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/datsun-240z-260z-280z-vented-front-brake-kit-break_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem200236768166QQitemZ200236768166

 

Thought it interesting since the other ones I've seen are like $1200. Anyone ever had any experience with them? The last thing I want to do is cheap out on brakes, you know?

[PresaMax]

The Ebay seller is the same person offering the brakes here on HybridZ. I've purchased a front and rear set for my '71 240Z. Haven't put them on yet but they look pretty good. I've been dealing with this Ebay seller for a few years and he's a stand up guy. Good luck.

 

Julius

 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135157

[buZy]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/datsun-240z-260z-280z-vented-front-brake-kit-break_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem200236768166QQitemZ200236768166

 

Thought it interesting since the other ones I've seen are like $1200. Anyone ever had any experience with them? The last thing I want to do is cheap out on brakes, you know?

 

 

Then don't be cheap...

Go AZC. 4 piston front and rears. Done.

[RedNeckZ]

The picture, if I am looking at it right is the Nissan 300ZX rotors (first year, four bolt hubs) and the Toyota S-12W caliber (truck model, have to look up the date for you). You can buy most of the parts at the auto parts stores at a much cheaper price. Only thing you will need is the spacer plate that needs to go between the rotors and the hubs. Several stores on the site sells the part. 240Z hubs need .50 or 1/2" thick spacer. The 280Z hubs are different and you will need a .375 thick spacer for it to work. A lot of info on this site about this change over. I have the 300ZX on the front and 280ZX discs on the rear and haven't had any problems with it. Have raced around Stapleton and Second Creek in Colorado with the Z club there. I have also gone around Road Atlanta with them on the car. Just remember they use them on GT-2 cars for a long time. I just think it would be cheaper to get the parts yourself and save some money. The calibers are a simple bolt on option. If you can do machine work, I do have the drawing of the spacer if you can make them. Take care, Rich.

[RedNeckZ]

My next car will be getting the rotors off of a 300ZXT. I already have the rotors, just looking for some great calibers to go with them. Good Luck, Rich.

[Mensaf]

Then don't be cheap...

Go AZC. 4 piston front and rears. Done.

There's a difference between cheaping out and looking for a good product at a good price. If I had all the money in the world, I doubt I would've bothered to make the thread.

The picture, if I am looking at it right is the Nissan 300ZX rotors (first year, four bolt hubs) and the Toyota S-12W caliber (truck model, have to look up the date for you). You can buy most of the parts at the auto parts stores at a much cheaper price. Only thing you will need is the spacer plate that needs to go between the rotors and the hubs. Several stores on the site sells the part. 240Z hubs need .50 or 1/2" thick spacer. The 280Z hubs are different and you will need a .375 thick spacer for it to work. A lot of info on this site about this change over. I have the 300ZX on the front and 280ZX discs on the rear and haven't had any problems with it. Have raced around Stapleton and Second Creek in Colorado with the Z club there. I have also gone around Road Atlanta with them on the car. Just remember they use them on GT-2 cars for a long time. I just think it would be cheaper to get the parts yourself and save some money. The calibers are a simple bolt on option. If you can do machine work, I do have the drawing of the spacer if you can make them. Take care, Rich.

Thanks man. I'd appreciate the drawings for the spacer. Any place I can save money will help push the car forward. Much appreciated.

My next car will be getting the rotors off of a 300ZXT. I already have the rotors, just looking for some great calibers to go with them. Good Luck, Rich.

I always thought that any OEM parts from a later model Z would be suffecient, since they'd be stopping something that weighs hundreds of pounds less than what they were designed for. The only real concern would be whether or not you'd be able to clear your wheels. I know we can use spacers for that, but when I was big into 240sx's a lot of guys that ran spacers ended up repeatedly damaging their hubs. I miss my 240sx, it's funny that the only other car I've liked as much as it is also a 240, just a different kind.

[jagster]

I just wanted to thank you for putting the spacer thickness for the hub rotor alignment on the site. I tried to get the dimensions from the guys that market this stuff, and want 115 bucks for a set, and it turns out that any 1/2 in spacer works. These are dirt cheap, or a machine shop could make them up in an afternoon. Thanks. this is what I like about this site. You can find good advice on just about everything on here. ron Stephenson jagster911@bellsouth.net

The picture, if I am looking at it right is the Nissan 300ZX rotors (first year, four bolt hubs) and the Toyota S-12W caliber (truck model, have to look up the date for you). You can buy most of the parts at the auto parts stores at a much cheaper price. Only thing you will need is the spacer plate that needs to go between the rotors and the hubs. Several stores on the site sells the part. 240Z hubs need .50 or 1/2" thick spacer. The 280Z hubs are different and you will need a .375 thick spacer for it to work. A lot of info on this site about this change over. I have the 300ZX on the front and 280ZX discs on the rear and haven't had any problems with it. Have raced around Stapleton and Second Creek in Colorado with the Z club there. I have also gone around Road Atlanta with them on the car. Just remember they use them on GT-2 cars for a long time. I just think it would be cheaper to get the parts yourself and save some money. The calibers are a simple bolt on option. If you can do machine work, I do have the drawing of the spacer if you can make them. Take care, Rich.

[jagster]

Well, after several attempts, I cannot get this combination to even bolt up. I have the correct rotors and the correct 4 piston calipers, and no-go. Cannot figure out what to do. I looked at the rotor, and it has the small 1/2 inch 'hat' that should face forward as most do, but when trying to put the caliper on the brackets, there is no way to line it up. Unless there is another 4 lug rotor out there, this just ain't gonna work. Any and all help and advice greatly appreciated. I have spent the bucks and would like to do this swap, but things are not going well.....thanks. ron

[1 tuff z]

i've watched this thread for a bit and want to add my 2 cents.

• there are many brake 'kits' available for our z cars
  
• some are for those with lesser wrenching experience and some for greater abilities
  
• some z owners prefer to do their research and assemble kits [due to limited budget or because they enjoy it or have the time/expertise to do so]
  
• others prefer to save the time [either due to limited time or the ability to make more $ at their job or they simply don't know where start]
  
• it is very important to begin with the end in mind=determine how your z will be driven [track, drag, auto-x, street, etc] then go with the upgrade that best suits your needs

posting comments to the effect that you can do it much cheaper yourself is what i would consider negative and should be refrained from. if you do a bit of research, you'll see that the vendor referred to in this thread offers a very competitively priced kit with top notch new [not remanufactured] components.

 

i am not biased to this vendor but trying to keep with the spirit of why hbz exists.

 

i'm done.

[rudypoochris]

I personally feel the extra $250-300 or so spent when going the Wilwood route is well worth it. Performance aside (and this is a big bit to put aside - I think little doubt the Wilwood's superiority to the Toyota stuff), just the weight of the components, the cost of replacing consumables, and the wide selection of pads and rotors puts the Wilwood kits far above the Toyota based kits. That is my opinion on the matter.

[loy]

Well, after several attempts, I cannot get this combination to even bolt up. I have the correct rotors and the correct 4 piston calipers, and no-go. Cannot figure out what to do. I looked at the rotor, and it has the small 1/2 inch 'hat' that should face forward as most do, but when trying to put the caliper on the brackets, there is no way to line it up. Unless there is another 4 lug rotor out there, this just ain't gonna work. Any and all help and advice greatly appreciated. I have spent the bucks and would like to do this swap, but things are not going well.....thanks. ron

 

 

Did you figure it out yet?

 

It should look somthing like this when you bolt the hub spacer and rotor.

[jagster]

Yes, indeed. Things are going to work. My local machine shop is turning the adaptors right now from high-grade aluminum with the pattern coming from the original 240Z rotor. After having to fabricate spacers from different stuff lying around, I landed on the correct spacing, then got help from two sources on the site. Many thanks to all. Now, on to the rear brake swap. Ron

[z-ya]

The is a great alternative to the stock brakes. They work well with the stock booster and proportioning valve. It is pretty much a bolt on setup. the only thing I don't like about this particular assortment of parts is the rotors. For street use, they are fine. For track use, drilled rotors are not a good idea. Get a set of Brembo or Mountain (Japan) brand replacement rotors, they work much better than drilled/slotted ones.

 

If you are not doing tracks days and have high horsepower, these brakes are more than sufficient. I use this setup on my road racer with stock rear drum brakes and they work great. Balance is great, and with my 180WHP, I get more than a dozen track days out of a set of pads.

 

Yes, the Wilwood setup is better, but to get the system to work correctly, you need to get an adjustable prop valve and balance the system. It also depends on what rear brakes and the MC you run. It take a lot of experimenting to get it just right. There are two reasons to run a Wilwood type full race setup:

 

1) You are road racing, and have a high HP Z

2) You want big brakes for looks

 

IMO I will never put a Wilwood setup on another street Z. Not a good street pad selection, more maintenance, no dust seals, more rebuilds required. And if the SYSTEM is not balanced with the proper pads, and correct MC, the braking performance will be worse than the stock setup (on the street).

 

If you want to improve the braking power of your 240Z, put a 280Z booster in it. If you are doing the occasional track day, do the vented 300ZX rotor Toyota V6 caliper upgrade (along with the 280Z booster) like in this Ebay listing.

 

Been there, done this....

 

Pete

[jagster]

Pete: Thanks for your support and good advice on this. It is interesting that many people share your thoughts on the trick calipers and the flexing that goes on under severe use, and many teams have gone back to iron calipers for that reason. Same with rotors. Nothing wrong with the stock pieces, and weight is not an issue as many think. There are dozens of ways to put your car on a diet besides a few pounds on the brakes. I like your idea of the the 280Z booster, and have one on hand and will likely install it too. I will use the 15/16 th's 280zx master cylinder too. My car is primarily for the street, some occasional drags, and some time in the twisties where the real fun is. I want the rear discs too, so that will be next, with a proportioning valve. That maddening spacer turns out to be 5/8ths or 16MM, not the 1/2 inch some suggested. Maybe the thinner one is for the other 4 piston calipers, but I don't have those lying around to check it out. Anyway, thanks to all. Great site, and I hope to make some contribution to it as I progress on my project.

[z-ya]

Pete: Thanks for your support and good advice on this. It is interesting that many people share your thoughts on the trick calipers and the flexing that goes on under severe use, and many teams have gone back to iron calipers for that reason. Same with rotors. Nothing wrong with the stock pieces, and weight is not an issue as many think. There are dozens of ways to put your car on a diet besides a few pounds on the brakes. I like your idea of the the 280Z booster, and have one on hand and will likely install it too. I will use the 15/16 th's 280zx master cylinder too. My car is primarily for the street, some occasional drags, and some time in the twisties where the real fun is. I want the rear discs too, so that will be next, with a proportioning valve. That maddening spacer turns out to be 5/8ths or 16MM, not the 1/2 inch some suggested. Maybe the thinner one is for the other 4 piston calipers, but I don't have those lying around to check it out. Anyway, thanks to all. Great site, and I hope to make some contribution to it as I progress on my project.

 

Jagster,

 

You don't need the 15/16" MC, it will just require more pedal effort. Use the 280Z booster, and 7/8" MC with the stock brakes and you will be amazed at the braking. Just get your stock brakes in tip top working order, and you will not have any problems stopping on the street or at the drags.

[jagster]

Jagster,

 

You don't need the 15/16" MC, it will just require more pedal effort. Use the 280Z booster, and 7/8" MC with the stock brakes and you will be amazed at the braking. Just get your stock brakes in tip top working order, and you will not have any problems stopping on the street or at the drags.

 

Thanks for all the help on this. I have all the pieces and will swap things around until I get the brake feel I want. The only downside is bleeding the brakes after each 'experiment'. You know, some of us are tinkerers, and may I say thinkers when it comes to stuff like this. On the opposite end of that, you have the clueless. the uninformed and the money-solution types who can't even turn a wrench, let alone try to understand the physics and the mechanics involved. They don't like or enjoy our side of it, and that is OK by me. I have only owned one new car in my life, and that was a mistake. My bag is to fix and improve everything I drive. And so it goes. Whatever turns your crank is OK by me.

[rudypoochris]

I think we are all tinkerers and thinkers, but you surely are not trying to imply that going the Wilwood route is only for the 'money-solution types who can't even turn a wrench, let alone try to understand the physics and mechanics involved', correct? I think it would be a mistake to make such an implication.

[jagster]

Not at all, and there was no intent to imply that. As stated, some can, and some have to reach for the pocketbook. When I ran my Z garage, I had both types, mostly the former who liked the cars and didn't have a clue, and were not interested in learning about their cars. So it goes.