Dave240Z Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Seriously considering a set, but wanted to solicit some feedback from anyone who has 'been there, done that'. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have his front 4 piston set. They're big and light with plenty of potential if set up properly. I think his 6 piston set is way more than the car will ever need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I've got the 4 piston stuff front and rear on my track car. They meet my expectations. Easy install and work very well with the correct pad and proper bias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I think there are lots of guys here using his stuff. I have the front and rear kit also (non 6 piston). I don't have any problem stopping my car It just gets street driven use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have the whole 4piston set with prop valve. They stop like nothing else, and most importantly, the feel is consistently SOLID, and the modulation is completely repeatable. You will learn the limits of your tires and suspension. With these brakes, you can stop worrying about brakes and start tuning elsewhere. I have used them mostly on the street and once at Watkins Glen International. My ONLY gripe is that the rotors needed to be cut from day one. I am going on my third time cutting the rotors. I personally can't seem to keep them straight. Yes, I allow cool down times after heavy use, and I bed them properly but they still warp, or build up uneven pad material....whichever it is, I can't tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 My ONLY gripe is that the rotors needed to be cut from day one. I am going on my third time cutting the rotors. I personally can't seem to keep them straight. Yes, I allow cool down times after heavy use, and I bed them properly but they still warp, or build up uneven pad material....whichever it is, I can't tell. Try a different pad material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 One more light cut on the rotors and I may try a different pad. The pads I'm using were supplied by Dave at AZC for street use and track days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Cost vs Performance thes are the BEST zcar brake kit on the market. "Why piece together home made junk when you can buy a complete beautiful quality Real racing brake kit at this price." 4 piston front and rears is all you will ever need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getZ Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have the setup. It installed without a problem. I haven't really put mines through a rigorous road testing yet, but like anything else it requires a bit of tuning, balancing the front a rear brake biasing. Also, don't forget to check the end of the control arm clearance to the rotor, especially if your car is lowered. I had to grind the tip of control arm down to give me a clearance I was comfortable with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I have Arizona's six piston setup on the front and their four pistons for the rear of my track car. They have been, without a question, rock solid and predictable at the limit with aggressive Wilwood pads. I'm even happy with rotor and pad longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 My ONLY gripe is that the rotors needed to be cut from day one. I am going on my third time cutting the rotors. I personally can't seem to keep them straight. Yes, I allow cool down times after heavy use, and I bed them properly but they still warp, or build up uneven pad material....whichever it is, I can't tell. Maybe you can answer my dilemma. I acquired this break kit used, but in good cond. I have had this issue though from the start. When I apply the brakes the first time or two, they feel great. Nice and smooth. After a couple hard back to back stops, the steering wheel starts to shimmy as I apply the brakes. I can feel its to do with something up front only. And I believe its in the rotor... no?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave240Z Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 Wow. These are more popular than I thought. I agree, these are a great kit. You would be hard pressed to save any money trying to piece something of similar quality and performance together yourself. Questions: Anyone change their Master cylinder and/or booster? I assume an adjustable prop valve is required to get the f/r balance What rim/tire size is being used? I currently have 15x7 Panasport ultralights. They barely cleared a knockoff kit (Juan?). I haven't found anyone locally to try these out and Dave doesn't have a printable wheel fitment diagram either. I'm not against going to 16x7, but would prefer to stay with 15x7 for both looks, performance and cost reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 If f/r proportioning valve is used, and rear brakes have been upgraded as well as the fronts, then the only other thing I could think of would be slotted and/or drilled rotors. But those would eat up pads pretty quick. And that's a pricey option for that setup, but if you can afford the kit to begin with I suppose that 's not really an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 I have the 4 piston setup on my front-end and they work great. However you must do something with the rear or you will lock the fronts up alot. Now I just need to decide on a rear setup, hum emergency brake or not?? The one question I have is what are the Wilwood rotor numbers so that we can purchase replacements from say Summit racing? I believe they are UL-32 rotors and the part numbers are 160-5845 and 160-5846 but just not sure. What do you all say? HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 QUOTE "The one question I have is what are the Wilwood rotor numbers so that we can purchase replacements from say Summit racing? I believe they are UL-32 rotors and the part numbers are 160-5845 and 160-5846 but just not sure. What do you all say?" You can easily measure and then compare you findings with Wilwood's published dimensions and then determine which part you have. However, Arizona Z Car, can supply you with any needed replacement parts at a price that is similar to the other suppliers you mentioned. Why not "dance with the one who brung you" ? Dave has always come through for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I have no problems getting my parts from Dave at Arizona Z, matter of fact I have 2 sets of his front rotor assemblies. You know 1 for the track and 1 for the street. However, I just like to have options in case something happens and we cannot get parts from him for whatever reason. So here is what I can figure out from measuring my setup: Wilwood part numbers: UL-32 Series Directional Vane Rotors RH 160-2894 10.5 lbs LH 160-2895 10.5 lbs ULHP-32 Series Directional Vane Rotors RH 160-5845 10.4 lbs LH 160-5846 10.4 lbs Now back to figuring out what I want/need for back brakes!! HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris240zTurbo Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Another fan of AZC stuff and have his brakes F+R on my car, they are absolutely worth every penny, during a recent track day on 225-50-16 Falken Azenis I was amazed at how well and consistently the car braked, now I just need to learn how to drive! I also upgraded to a 13/16 ZX master cylinder at the same time. I believe your 15x7 panas will fit, I have a pair of 15x8 0 offset wheels (for drag tires) and they fit, just barely, but they fit, front caliper comes very close (1/16th) to the inner part of the spokes, but they are sportmax wheels and it looks to me like th pana spokes aren't quite so close. Daily I run 16x7 panas with no clearance issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I also upgraded to a 13/16 ZX master cylinder at the same time. I think you mean 15/16 MC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 I bought the 4 piston set up years ago and kept going deeper and deeper into the corners at Hallett, Ok. You must check the runout of the combination of the rotor, hub and center section. Mine was out .012 and .016 causing pulsating brakes. If you look at Dave's instructions, he makes that perfectly clear. One of these days, I might just do that. I just changed from a 4 lug wheel to 5 lug using his beautiful one piece hub and center section for my Wilwood front conversion. The resulting additional added 1/2 inch offset allowed me to run 16 X 8 Cobra R wheels with a +.015 offset and a 245:45:16 Yoko A032R without a spacer. My only complaint is that he did not send me two Dorman 618-010 99 cent washers so that his spin on grease cap would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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