tannji Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I found this good link. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm Justin That's the wheel style I was talking about... haven't found one to beat it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 Here's a cool classic with bare metal thats been polished and clear coated. I LOVE it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Hey justin its looking good but a word of advice. Its worth your time to make sure you get ALL of it off on the first pass because it will take longer to do it twice to go back and get all the little spots that you missed. Just be consistent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Whats a good epoxy primer that I can buy in spray cans? We might be getting some rain tomorrow so i want to spray something down to protect the metal. Jeff, thanks for the advice. I'll try to get all of the paint off when I go over it the first time. I've been working on this at night with light so its hard to get all the little spots. I have been tending to miss them here and there. BTW, the harbor freight electric die grinder didn't like being used with the 3M roloc pad. I used it for 10 minutes last night and turned it off. When I was packing up, it was smoking. OOoops. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supertip Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 I used the aircraft remover however my z has 5 or 6 coats of paint. I found that a heat gun and a scraper works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 You need something that will bond straight to bare metal. IIRC, typical primer/sealers are NOT that. It's usually a translucent material that you wash on and rinse off (iron phosphate or zinc phosphate). You may simply want to go with rust bullet for superior rust prevention, but if you want something like that image, you'll need the translucent etching stuff and then clearcoat. Clearcoat won't bond directly to bare metal. Nor will basecoat. WD40 and scotch brite is what modern day "practitioners" of medieval european martial arts use to keep their "period correct" armor from rusting. On the topic of stripping, if you wanna use the gel/liquid stripping stuff, you should start by running a DA over all the surface real quickly. Do this dry like you normally would. You are just doing this to accelerate the stripping process; it gives the stripping material something to bite in to. After that, put the stripping gel/liquid over a single panel (or half a large one like the hood). Don't be stingy, either. Get it on good and thick. Once you get it all over the panel, cover it with a sheet of plastic to keep air out. Let it sit for 15 minutes and then check it out. If it all scrapes off with a dull chisel, go ahead and get it all off with the chisel or wipe it off with heavy duty towels. If not, get off what you can and use a stiff metal brush (by hand) to scrub on it in the stubborn areas, re-cover the incomplete areas with more stripper and recover with plastic. Wait another 15 minutes, etc. This will tear up paint, primer, powdercoat, e-coat, etc. pretty quickly. Digging into it with a DA and covering with plastic is key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 WD40 is what I had originally planed to use to seal the metal from getting rusty. I was told that if I want to paint the car down the road the penetrating lubricant part of WD40 would be troublesome to completely remove from the metal. What do you guys think? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 I wouldnt put wd-40 on my car. Does it sit outside or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 Work smaller areas. Cover the applied area with a garbage bag to keep it from evaoprating. Once the light ends evaporate the stripper is not nearly as effective. And if it dries before you get to removing the paint, it will adhere like you wouldn't believe...and then you ed up getting machanical stripping disct to grind it off. Work in smaller areas, give the solvent time to work and penetrate, and cover it to keep it from evaoprating. Each of these things should really work together to give you paint that you should be able to use a plastic spatula on and just flick off the metal---leaving undisturbed fresh metal underneath. Anything you use, including the scotchbrite and metal strip thingies will leave marks you will have to contend with later on when the topcoats and primers start to shrink and reveal the scratches. I'd cover the plastic pieces, or remove them entirely, as well. THe paint stripper can do nasty things to plastic... And WD on the car is a no-no. It WILL get into the pores of the metal. As mentioned above, once you are cleaned to metal, use an etching type EPOXY primer to seal everything. You can always remove it for spot repairs, but the Epoxy Primer will not absorb moisture like normal old lacquer primer does. In 'the old days' you would spray whatever lacquer topcoat you have left over in the guy on horizontal surfaces if you had to store the car outside for any period of time. Looked hideous, but when the dew forms in the morning, it just soaaaaks into primer, and you ALL have seen the primer car with all the horizontal surfaces with rust poking through the fresh-looking grey primer... Epoxy Primer kinda stops the need for that kind of topcoating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 Yeah, the car is sitting in my driveway on jack stands. I'm going to move it to my storage facility so that I have cover, but that means I won't work on the car as often. I've never seen the etching epoxy primer. I've found phosphoric etch and some spray can epoxy primer. I guess thats what I'll do Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 I'm still working on the exterior of the car. I'm about down to bare metal on all the panels. My next question is how do I remove the paint between the vents in the cowl? Also, any recommendations on stripping paint in the door jams? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonZ Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Wire wheel in the cowl slits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I actually left the paint on my door jambs when i did mine i did go in and scuff them up with some 80 grit sandpaper and then primmed them though. Guess it just depends on how picky your gonna be if you wanna go that far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Well the car is all painted with a Rustoleum black primer right now from spray cans. Does anyone know if this primer will seal out water? Next up I'm going to weld in patches for the marker lights, drip rails, and fuel filler door. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 No, it won't seal out water. Furthermore - speaking from experience - you can only topcoat Rustoleum with more rustoleum. If you plan to use any kind of "real" automotive paint product, you will need to remove all of the rustoleum. BTDT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Langley's240 Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 how do i post my own postings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Here's what I used: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=27&SBL=1 I was just trying to keep the car from rusting while it sits outside my house during this round of modifications. What should I have used to protect the bare metal instead of rustoleum? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenJammin Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Justin... I was with you until you asked that last question (?) Someone else covered that earlier (etching primer /epoxy primer) and you actually responded that you would do something along those lines, then you went completely off in a different direction with the Rustoleum. I'm not sure about the spray can stuff, but I believe the problem with the Rustoleum rusty metal primer (in a regular can) was it contained a certain type of oil that made it incompatible with a lot of other paint systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 When I went to home depot (maybe thats my big mistake). The paint lady told me that the rustoleum automotive primer was an epoxy primer. I guess its not. O well, I'll leave what I have until I'm ready to strip it all back down and get to work on the real paint job. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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