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Which Engine To Choose???


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if you just add single turbo like T 88, 1000cc injectors, 272 camshaft, polished head, and computer standalone like motec, with methanol injection. you will reach 800+ whp easily

 

Well.... there's also the fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel system plumbing, single turbo header, complete exhaust system, ECU software tuning, sensor upgrades, intercooler upgrade, intercooler plumbing, engine wiring harness, fuel pump relays, CAI, and a whole lot more. But, hey, its easy to get 800 whp... :icon56:

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Well.... there's also the fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel system plumbing, single turbo header, complete exhaust system, ECU software tuning, sensor upgrades, intercooler upgrade, intercooler plumbing, engine wiring harness, fuel pump relays, CAI, and a whole lot more. But, hey, its easy to get 800 whp... :icon56:

 

Was about to put something similar . :icon54:

 

Anyway go use the search button and read peoples build it will give you a realistic idea of the cost ,a "simple RB26" swap is a 10k$ swap and you dont have any tune or any idea of how the engine will reatc at 1st start up . I did extensive research on the cost of diffrent swap versus power and reliablity and the diffrence between an RB25 and 26 in money overall is just arond 2500 $ but the 26 can be pushed further . I based my calculation on a 500 hp build . I didnt wanted to hear about how unstreetable it would be but it was a personnal mark i wanted to have just to be able to say i got 500hp " POTENTIAL" and maybe do a dyno run too proove it then bring it down to a more streetable tune . Anyway i added everthing i could possibly imagine including bolts and oils and what not to do the work myself and the numbers are substential .

 

If you want to only and truly do just 300 hp reliably id go with a RB25 without a doubt . Sounds great looks greaty it keeps the car somewhat unique and it still has a I6 . I got nothing against SR`s they can make easy 300 hp but the torque is not as much to the rendez-vous then on a RB25 and for a street car torque is what put the fun in your ride ,its some what fuel efficient compare to the V8 .

 

In the end its all about if you really want to only have 300hp because their is very few people who can truly say i have enough with my 300hp i dont want to go further most people want more .

 

And if your wondering Im going for a VQ35 Turbo .

 

My 2 cents

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VQ35 with 6spd 300 hp stock, very light. Around $1000 if you look around.

 

VH45 with Z32 5spd 300 hp with more torque, around $1000 with adapter

 

You can build either of the above motors with forged parts and boost it for what a smaller stock RB or SR will cost or just run a few lbs on a stock engine.

 

LS1 350+ hp. Price, I don't know but much less than what you have listed.

 

If you go with a SR20, it will be a 2 liter dog off boost. I could care less what people think of what engine I have under the hood, that should be the last reason to pick one. Pick based on price, displacement, weight, power. If you looked at each engine without being biased I think RB's and SR's would not be on the list.

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If i did a american v8 in a s30, it would have to be a ls1/ls2 or maybe a lt1...the the rest of the v8's just seem to lazy for my taste....tq every where thats cool, buts what if a want something that screams at 7000-8000rpm....To me thats the essence of a jap car, they scream...which is some of the reason im not feeling the 350z...cool car but the 3.8 is such a drone...

 

I take that back, i would love to see a DZ chevy 302..or a turbo charged chevy 283...:)

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Go with 2jz gte better. it gives 300hp without tuning

if you just add single turbo like T 88, 1000cc injectors, 272 camshaft, polished head, and computer standalone like motec, with methanol injection. you will reach 800+ whp easily

 

i agree with the 2jz setup but he wants to keep it nissan/datsun original.

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90% of me wants to build the 3.1 stroker. lots of info and how-to's, sounds amazing, super nostalgic, etc. it's just that 10% screaming at me that in a year i'm going to be unhappy with the power. and i wont' be able to simply bolt on power adders as the stroker will be built 10.5-11:1 c/r (so turbo, even low boost, would be unsafe so that's out the window).

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Guess how big that motor is?

 

2 liters flat. DE stroked, small bore, L20A 6cylinder. Yah, its built like the freakin space shuttle, but all the years I have played with Zs have yet to "teach" me the difference in sound between the various displacement setups we have available. I am not saying it cannot be done, I just think that "the sound of the stroker motor" is not that much different from the sound of a 2.4 liter motor with the same intake, exhaust, cam and head/piston/chamber characteristics. A cam makes more difference in the sound of an engine than almost any other thing, the muffler and carb/intake choice being a close second. The valvetrain comes after that, but since almost all the Z valvetrains are the same solid lifter setup that isn't really a variable. After the valvetrain I would say compression likely plays the next greatest role, but I am guessing at that.

 

My point, overall, is that it seems to ME at least that (regarding L6 engines at least) the stroke and bore of the engine have little impact on the overall sound it makes. Triples just sound awesome, thats all :)

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ok, having read all this, i guess its time I add my 2 cents. Is this your only car? Weekend Excursion car? etc? I was 5yrs old when i had my first z ride, yes, I'm 42 now, and have had so many z's i dont even remember how many. but i currently have 7 still. I have tried it all, except for the latest technology, the RB series. I feel, its a waste of money. ok rb guys, keep reading. depends on what you want to do with the car. back in the day, i went diesel crank, trip mikes, light flywheel, 3.9 lsd, (autocross car) still have it, very fun, revs like a ninja, runs 13.8 in quarter mile, -not impressive, so then also back in the day, i did the nissan turbo thing, all nissan. about 1988 i was running the l28 turbo motor with the 75 fuel injection on the motor, cold start inj was the 7th enricher by the auto kickdown switch on the gas pedal, neat car surprised many people, ran 12.7- very fun, very reliable-needed better electronics to tune it better. ran 15psi. *very cheap way to go and all nissan* so in the quest for speed I swapped in a buick grand national motor back in 1996. oh yea! very sick car! all stock appearing, quiet, and fun fun. runs 10.4 @133mph. 105 in the eighth. with a 60 foot of 1.44. stock drivetrain! and over 2000 runs. I raced it for 4 years and sorta got out of it for awhile. but 8 years ago, i went out to Cali and bought 2 more z's, did a father son thing (pop is gettin up there) all z's are rusty back in pa. so, i painted them and sat them in the garage. just two weeks ago i got one of them out, put a 280 trip carb motor together, light flywheel, nice exhaust and I'm loving my youth again. the sound is just amazing, the car still has the stock single speaker radio. i thought, i dont need no radio, i have the carbs. but then again, the z's are my toys. it was first love when i was 5 years old.

Oh, i have experience with the LS2 also. Last year i put an 06 GTO Motor in a 93 Rx7. fun car too. runs 11's, revs great, (and the engine/tranny combo is light) gets 30mpg on the highway.

There is no substitution for displacement! just think if you add a turbo to the ls2?

for sound-triple carb

nissan budget and quick-l28 turbo with somekind of better electronics

nissan no budget-rb

sound and american?-ls2

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OP: You asked for real numbers on a L31. I have an L30, Rebello built (the E88 head as well). 9.8:1 CR, cam is on the wild side for Zs, and I'm getting about 250 at the wheels. The thing about Ls is that they are going to be torquey. You won't necessarily see high HP numbers, but the torque curve is what makes them good.

 

Personally, I'd go with a V8 though.

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