jeffer949 Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Well I changed a few things last night AND THEY WORKED!!!!! Im so stoked right now you cant even tell. She is back up to running 20psi with out a hitch. (knock on wood) Ive taken it out for two 5min runs and so far not a single reset that i could tell. Well here is what i did. First i physically took th relay board out of the car and looked at it very closely. And apparently when I soldered in the 12v constant and the 12v switched i got it a little hot and it seperated a little bit around the solder rings. So I got on line and found where the traces went and cut them out and soldered in some wire externally. Not sure if this fixed it or the next thing i changed. The next thing i did was i took SPEEDERS advice and looked at the datalogs and noticed that my IAT and my CLT sensors dropped off a the sametime the resets happend. So I switched those wires to sheilded wire. So far its working great. Im still going to go to radio shack and get some of the CAPs and put those on the alternator and the coil. So unless this comes back. All I can say is thank you everyong for your help. I couldnt of figured this out with out you guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Awesome news. Hopefully that is the end of this story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Actualy thank you for your post on the bad relay board Mobythevan. I probably wouldnt of taken the thing out and looked at it that closely if you hadnt posted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 I was trying to remember everything I have heard about resets, some of it is pretty weird at this point. All of speeder's points were very good, along with everyone elses input. We just keep pounding you with ideas and it seems like you got it fixed now. I am going to sticky this thread and modify the title a little. The resets/grounding/plug cables affect a lot of people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 WHahooo I have a sticky!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Glad to hear that you've slayed this dragon! EMI is just plain tough to solve, but with perseverance it can be solved. I know how satisfied I felt when I solved mine, and yours dragged on longer and harder. CONGRATULATIONS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 woo hoo! you did it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 Well no dice folks. Its back the break ups the resets the MSQ erasing. So somthing either changed or it was a fluke that I fixed the problem. Ill keep ya updated on what I keep trying. I might order a new relay board. We will see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 Well I just ordered a new relay board from DIY. I also ordered a 4 bar map sensor. Figured that I am basically starting from scratch I might as well do it with the map sensor i want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Oh man this must be getting old. I am glad that you have the will to push forward. I would be at my wits end already. Anyone nearby that you can start swapping components with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I didn't read every post. You may have said. If you are running resistors just ignore this. I am running flyback and I had voltage, and duty cycle spikes that drove me crazy. I ran a filter that did nothing. The experts on the MS board kept saying it was my alt. I new it wasn't. My radar detector reads voltage too and goes nuts above 17 V. I have had alts go bad and it picks it up fast. I ran the dumped power from the flyback out of the ecu and into 12+ out side the unit. It's been good since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 Hey Clifton I PM'ed you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 Well a new relay board and a new map sensor didnt fix it. Im going to try a different cas in my distributor. It seems to do it at higher RPM's and thats the only thing that spinning that i havent changed so ill give it a shot. I have a 700 mile road trip today so wish me luck. Ill try not to spill water on my laptop this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 Well i made it back to nashville. Turns out a good fix for the resets is driving over a 10 foot extention ladder on the interstate. lol Ya not really. but it did go away for a bit. But its still there. 700ish miles and 413 resets. Not the best way to have a trip. But it did make it back to nashville. It only erased the firmware twice. And that was actually with in 40 miles of starting my trip. Still REALLY annoying. Here is a list of everything I have done up till now to try and fix it. 1. Switched from NGK plug wires to Magnacor's and didnt change a thing. 2. Switched my MAT and CLT sensors over to sheilded wire. This helped for a little while. Now if it was just a fluke or something we will never know. 3. Tried to repair relay board. did this at the same time i did the sheilded wire. either it helped or didnt for a little bit. Who knows 4. Replaced the relay board with a new kit from DIY autotune. No dice. Didnt change anything. 5. Replaced the 250kpa map sensor with a 4bar one with realtime baro correction. This was just a shot in the dark with the map sensor. But I was wanting to upgrade anyway so I tried it. Once again. No dice. But when it does run. It does pull smoother up top because my boost was spiking over 21psi at times. And now its getting a accurate signal. 6. Installed like 6 more ground wires. All over the place from the battery to the chassie and to the engine. Didnt seem to help any. 7. Ive installed all kinda of noise filters or capacitors. I have noise filters on +12 constant going into the relay board, +12 going into the MSD 6A box. Capacitors on the fuel pump, alternator, None of these seemed to help. I am going to put a few more on tomorrow. On the +12v for the CAS and the +12v for my wide band. 8. I switched my cas from the stock 280zxt cas to a 85 300zxt cas. Whilei still used the 280zxt wheel. Didnt seem to help any. 9. Changed my alternator to a 240sx unit out of the junk yard but it didnt changeanything. I had it tested before i put it on and it was in working order. 10. Ive taken out my MS unit and tried reflowing any joints that looked questionable. Didnt really find any and didnt change anything. Ive also obviously checked all grounds, cleaned all grounds. Cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor, changed the spark plugs. cleaned the terminals on the batter like 5 times. I was doing some reading on the MS forums and there was some posts about taking the 12v from the flyback cuircut and taking it out somewhere else. It wasnt to clear. Now they say this should only affect people with low z injectors. Now I have high Z injectors but the symptoms seem to follow what they are talking about. So since i dont really need the flyback cuircut can I take it out completely? My thinking is that maybe its not opperating correctly and by taking it out will remove that possibility alltogether. Wel thats where Im at right now. Oh ya and my car has a bad vibration over 95mph ever since i hit that ladder. But i dont think its my wheels because i didnt driver over it that way. it went under my car but thats for a different post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Can you replace the power IC, i think it's U16 on the MS1,V3.0 board. it's like 10 bucks IF that. Its part of the power supply circuit on the board near the top left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 You didn't mention in the list of things if you are running resistor spark plugs. I would use an oscilliscope at this point to see if there really is noise on any of the power lines or if the power is just dropping for small amounts of time. On my rx7 I had to measure the noise with a scope and size the capacitors correctly to get rid of it. I couldn't just drop in standard car condensers and filter it out. Once the correct size capacitors were installed all the noise was cleaned up as verified with the scope and the car running smooth. The noise I had did not cause resets, it just caused a lot of false triggers to MS which caused the car to run rough. As a side note, my friend called me this morning and said the truck is still getting resets. I told him you were still having them as well. It looks like we will be scoping the truck to see if we can find the cause. I remember reading once that a pin on the processor might have been left floating and noise could cause this floating pin to reset the processor. I'll have to dig that back up and see if I was dreaming or if it is real. I wonder if changing the battery would change the resets, in a way the battery acts as a big noise filter. That was just a crazy thought that occurred to me as I was typing this response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 I should have read this post a lot earlier, may have saved you some trouble. I ran into the exact same problems that you are having, which was a direct result of the FUEL INJECTORS. This may seem a bit odd, that injectors could cause this, but if you have low impedance injectors, they have some pretty nastly flyback voltages. The MS board was poorly designed in respect to the injector flyback, and this high voltage leaks into other parts of the MS causing some pretty bad glitches. Either put in a resistor pack for your injectors, swap out for high impedance injectors, or do some reading on the subject of the MS forum. There are a few board fixes that can be done (worked decent for me) that will aleviate your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 My friends truck uses high impedance injectors, but thanks for heads up on the flyback problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 I'm running with 280zx turbo injectors (low impedance) and had issues with the injector drivers overheating (I think that was the root issue) and so added resistors which solved the overheating issue but not the resets. I swapped the spark plug wires a month later and that finally solved it. My suspicion is that since it's a noise problem, it's exacerbated by a combination of issues which probably include the poor flyback control design, any non-shielded sensor wires, lower quality spark plug wires, etc. I doubt there is a single silver bullet that solves this type of issue but rather it will go away when a lot of best practices are followed. That said, jeffer949 I feel your pain. I know how frustrating it was for me and you've put in so much effort and $$$ already. But stay with it - you'll eventually solve it and I'm sure you'll be quite happy with the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 Im running BR8ES pluggs and was running bpr8es-11 plugs at first. My injectors are NA rx7 460 cc injectors and are high Z. so thats why im lost on why it could be causing my problem even though it sounds exactly like what my problem is. So can the flyback portion of the board be taken out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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