shift00 Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 hey grumpy you should go to my thread and tell me what you think off my corvette style talights. "77 280z restoration project" http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132698 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Grumpy, i know im a pain but whats the bolt size and thred count or w/e for the trany on the back of a 350? i need to buy some bolts to put my block on astand so i can tear it down. but no one will tell me a straight answer it is quite lame. youll want 3.5" long 3/8 nc grade 8 bolts for most engine stands and don,t forget to buy 4 fender washers to prevent the heads of the bolts getting into the stands rotating head mount, occasionally youll need 4" bolts but thoise stands are not comon, you might want to measure your tool head and add an inch to the head depth to buy bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 grumpy i have a quick question for you. When i rebuilt my motor i neglected to inspect the threads for the spark plugs. So i completely assembled the motor and when i was putting the spark plugs in i noticed the threads on the number 4 cylinder was cross threaded. How do i straighten then back out without taking the head off again. I would just retap the threads but im worried about getting metal shaving in the cylinder. any ideas? thanks joe. napa, and harbor freight both sell a spark plug thread tap, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97277 just re -tap the threads and start the engine after squirting in a bunch of oil into that cylinder without replacing the plug, the engine starts and makes a smokey & noisy mess blowing the oil out but in under 1 minute the threads are blown totally clear if there was any chips, then just stop and replace the missing plug, if the threads are real bad http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4212608.html http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100428 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CODEAM?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextag-auto-delta-20&linkCode=asn http://www.restockit.com/High-Carbon-Steel-Metric-Thread-Spark-Plug-Tap-Plug-12-mm-1-25-(VER21146).html http://www.automedia.com/Spark_Plug_Hole_Thread_Repair/ccr20020401st/1 http://www.doityourself.com/icat/threadrepairkits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 youll want 3.5" long 3/8 nc grade 8 bolts for most engine stands and don,t forget to buy 4 fender washers to prevent the heads of the bolts getting into the stands rotating head mount okies thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 thank you... i just got those pics up check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11813&d=1233376936 IM IMPRESSED! that level of customizations not comon any more! congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmiller100 Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 454 question. I bought it from an ex buddy. very long story, not what was advertised, and I am trying to be cheap. I am all fired up to run it in a big river boat, so it needs to make decent power at 3200 rpm through like 4500 to 5000. I can set the jet pump to limit RPM wherever, but the lower the better. I have an edelbrock dual plane manifold with 1 inch carb spacer under the big block q-jet carb. It has peanut port heads I had pocket ported by a guy who really knows what he is doing. The pistons are Keith Black cheapies, but clearance is pretty bad, so I will bore it and buy new pistons. So, I'm looking for suggestions for a Cam (hydraulic flat tappet) and pistons. Kb's??? Flat tops? Goal of 9:1 to run on regular gas??? can't afford thousands of gallons of premium gas. A goal would be over 400 horsepower at 4500 rpm, but that might not be realistic. Thank you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beebeecivic Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 hey grumpy what causes my tach, fuel, oil pressure guage not work? and also why wouldnt my car start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 hey grumpy what causes my tach, fuel, oil pressure guage not work? and also why wouldnt my car start! Hey beebeecivic, I noticed you were having problems with your Z in another thread. Grumpy put this thread up for the V8 guys. I thought I saw a L28 head in the background of one of your pics, so if you do have a V8 correct me. Have you tried using an ignition from a 78 instead of a ZX? Post some more info about your car in your other thread and lets see if we can't get this thing straightened out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZZeee Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I'm not going to ask any questions of you, Grumpy, as you already confuse me enough as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mick280zx Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Hey Grumpy you're a legend... this is my first post and I notice you fielding questions like some sort of automotive Goliath! Good stuff! Oh yeah; Can you give me one good reason why I should keep my L28E over a small block chev? 'Cause I can't find one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUMPZ Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 grumpy.I know this is a V-8 forum and I am putting in a 383,pg and dana 60with 8.8 housing ends. If its not to much trouble can you point me in the direction of a manual (no powerbooster)brake mastercylinder that will work with 78 280 front disk and ford 8.8 rear drum brake. This is a drag only car and would like the room and not having to depend on vacuum.I think I have read all of related info on this site and done many searchs to no avail. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 hey grumpy what causes my tach, fuel, oil pressure guage not work? and also why wouldnt my car start! start with the basics, get out your V.O.M. and start with making sure the battery has about 13 volts and the engines well grounded,in at least two locations to the frame and battery ground, then verify the engine spins with the starter,verify all the fuses are good and your getting voltage to each fuse. get a shop manual or the gauge install instructions and verify the voltages and grounds, if youve got test gauges use those to verify the installed gauges are getting data but not displying that data, replace or repair as required, if the gauges are functioning but they don,t read correctly.. next do a compression test, and verify the valves are correctly set, with the proper preload or lash and that the cams indexed correctly to the crank timing.verify that the TDC and timing tab and TDC on the damper MATCH in reality. next verify your getting fuel at the carb or injectors at the correct pressure and its good fuel with no water or crud. next verify the plugs are clean, gapped correctly and getting spark, then time the engine. IF I was local this stuff takes only a few minutes to an hour to verify, but without being there it takes longer and im forced to guess without your detailed info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 Hey Grumpy you're a legend... this is my first post and I notice you fielding questions like some sort of automotive Goliath! Good stuff! Oh yeah; Can you give me one good reason why I should keep my L28E over a small block chev? 'Cause I can't find one! Can you give me one good reason why I should keep my L28E over a small block chev? ONLY IF YOUR A MASOCHIST, thats AFRAID of tire smoke, and winning races masochistic - deriving pleasure or sexual gratification from being abused or someone who obtains pleasure from receiving punishment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 454 question. I bought it from an ex buddy. very long story, not what was advertised, and I am trying to be cheap. I am all fired up to run it in a big river boat, so it needs to make decent power at 3200 rpm through like 4500 to 5000. I can set the jet pump to limit RPM wherever, but the lower the better. I have an edelbrock dual plane manifold with 1 inch carb spacer under the big block q-jet carb. It has peanut port heads I had pocket ported by a guy who really knows what he is doing. The pistons are Keith Black cheapies, but clearance is pretty bad, so I will bore it and buy new pistons. So, I'm looking for suggestions for a Cam (hydraulic flat tappet) and pistons. Kb's??? Flat tops? Goal of 9:1 to run on regular gas??? can't afford thousands of gallons of premium gas. A goal would be over 400 horsepower at 4500 rpm, but that might not be realistic. Thank you!!! If those peanut port heads flow decent which they should after some port and bowl clean up, they will be just fine for your intended application,but ID strongly suggest adding better valve springs that allow a .575 lift flat tap hydralic cam, the only decent intake matching that application is made by wieand http://www.holley.com/8017.asp youll want a cam designed for max tq in the 3500-4500 rpm range like a this and those better valve springs http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=01241&x=18&y=2 youll want a 1 3/4" primary full length header youll have a hard time getting 400hp at only 4500rpm, but youll have a decent tq curve and run cheap gas, my engine software makes its wild guess at 385hp/505 ft lbs with a 650 holley and open headers with a 18"long 2.5" dia, header collector, on that 9:1 cpr 454 assuming your flow rates on the heads are about 8%-10% better than stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 grumpy.I know this is a V-8 forum and I am putting in a 383,pg and dana 60with 8.8 housing ends. If its not to much trouble can you point me in the direction of a manual (no powerbooster)brake mastercylinder that will work with 78 280 front disk and ford 8.8 rear drum brake. This is a drag only car and would like the room and not having to depend on vacuum.I think I have read all of related info on this site and done many searchs to no avail. thanks you might want to read thru this http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0901phr_1968_chevy_chevelle_classic_performance_products_brakes/index.html http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/MCPV-1/MCPV-1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Grumpy, I had posted a while back in regards to my 385 sbc giving me fits with what I thought was a valve train issue and you thought it was the needle and seat. I too thought that the needle and seat fixed the problem as it ran fine for a couple of weeks. Last night I went out to get a friendly run or two in when it started to do the same thing again. I immediatly checked out the fuel in bowl level/needle and seat, plug wires and so on to no avail. Last night it did this fir the first time, when I started it and it sounded like a dead cylinder, stuck valve or something of that nature in sound. I put it in gear and slowly drove it in the lot and it just smoothed out and went away. I am beginning to wonder if I have a bad hyd. roller lifter even though they are practically brand new. I ran thru the different scenarios and it's not a bent push rod, broken spring as they do not improve when the motor is running. It sometimes takes a while for it to go away but it always does and that just baffles me. I am so tempted to go to a solid roller set up but I put a lot of money into this Crane billet roller cam, lifters, springs, push rods, roller rockers. Got any idea's? I am about ready to tear into her again. Oh, here's a refresher on my build. 010/020 gm 4 bolt block, zero decked, line honed. forged 400 crank 6" Eagle H-beam rods JE .040 forged pistons, Approx. compression is 11 to 1. Crane Billet hyd. small base roller cam 240/248-592/592 at 110 ls. Comp. Magnum Hyd. roller lifters Scorpion 1.60 roller rockers AFR 210 Eliminator heads, 65cc chambers Felpro MLS head gaskets .054 thickness Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake Proform 750 DP NOS Super Big Shot wet nitrous system 175 pills. Hooker Super Comp long tube headers. All Msd Ignition, Pro Billet, 6Al box, 3 step retard box. Msd wires. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 If a symtom comes and goes, rather at random, ID start looking at the plugs for indications of whats going on in the cylinders. ID do a compression/leak down test to verify its not mechanical in nature, Id verify the fuel pressure was consistant, Id open the carb and check internally for crud or broken parts, Id check the float levels and set the idle adjustemts and if I had a F/A meter ID be using it, to look for indications, and Id use a timing light to verify the timing curve advance runs smoothly, a VOM to do a few checks on voltage and resistance on ignition components , like plug wires and check the battery voltage bunder load,and and Id use an IR temp gun to verify the exhaust temp is reasonably consistant between cylinders as the first checks, you can,t cure the problem untill its isolated and clearly defined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falknz Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Hi Grumpy, Two questions: How do I best protect my SBC oil pan, the 1972 240z only has about 4 inches of ground clearance. Is there some sort of skid plate or do we go to a dry sump(expensive)? My plug wires are having a rough time being near the block hugger headers. Wrap the header, sheath the plug wire, ceramic boots... any ideas. Thought I saw a thread about longer wires tucked inside the header coming from the back. Thanks, Looking forward to your counsel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 theres a dozen ways you can go with headers and ignition wire, but Ive used these on several cars with good results and its what my race vette runs http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D99610&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D99605&N=700+400235+318871+115&autoview=sku big block (above) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D2566&N=700+400235+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TAY%2D79651&N=700+400235+115&autoview=sku SMALL BLOCK(above) as far as a skid plate ,a simple plate can be welded to the k-frame that extends back too or past the the sump at a slight angle or you can bolt one onto the k-frame for easier access and removal, a simple pattern can be made from cardboard , and some carefull measurments and a piece of 3/16" stainless steel about the width of the oil pan sump and distance from the rear of the k-fram to the bell housing could easily be fabricated, personally , my vettes got about the same under car clearance with my big old body and a passenger in the car and I just watch very carefully for raised lips on manhole cover rims and curbs and speed bumps and in 40 years of driving corvettes Ive only damaged one sump and that was repaired in a weekend with a oxy-acetolene torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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