grumpyvette Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) personally ID run a 10 ga copper wire along the frame and connect it to a dimmer switch I installed under the carpet, up out of the way but accessible with your toe (if you know where to push) so stepping on it would start and stop it providing power to the pump,so it will give you a bit of extra security in that you can make it far more difficult to steal your car, and its not obvious that you are turning on/off the fuel pump obviously you can get the factory shop manual and make the connections just like the factory pump if you choose too, so the pump comes on when the keys used to start the car,having a lead that only goes hot once the ignitions on, is a better option for most guys so its best to connect to a power lead supply that only goes hot once the ignitions on and remember to push the button to activate the pump, or de activate it as you, enter or exit the car, but either way the cars fuel pump will not run when the keys off, if you get absent minded, and you have the option of de-activating the pump if you park the car for extra security, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80150/Application/?prefilter=0 yes you could connect the feed directly to the battery but youll need to REMEMBER to start and stop the pump circuit or you'll run the battery dead, or the car won,t start until you remember to turn on the pump IF you turned it off,when you exited the car but having a hidden switch , makes it so you can park the car, and anyone even if they take your keys in a car jacking wont get all that far, PROVIDED you make it a habit to touch the switch as you exit the car (just an option) (having a small light on the dash under the fuel pressure gauge that indicating power to the pump wired into the circuit helps, you remember to turn on the pump) Edited October 8, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostiswhatsfordinner Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Awesome man. A++ on your expertise. I don't know why that hasn't occured to me before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Hey grumpy, I have a new Gen-I SBC that is running a full roller setup(hydraulic). I now have logged on appx. 350 miles on the engine, but I am still having a problem with a stubborn lifter that's not pumping up. The lifters were expensive, but should I be ready to pull the intake and such to get the lifter out or is there another way to 'coax' that lifter into working properly? The engine sat for a few years assembled before I got it running(in the Z), but I don't know if that would have created any problems... Thanks Ryan~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 (edited) Hey grumpy,I have a new Gen-I SBC that is running a full roller setup(hydraulic). I now have logged on appx. 350 miles on the engine, but I am still having a problem with a stubborn lifter that's not pumping up. The lifters were expensive, but should I be ready to pull the intake and such to get the lifter out or is there another way to 'coax' that lifter into working properly? The engine sat for a few years assembled before I got it running(in the Z), but I don't know if that would have created any problems... Thanks Ryan~ I don,t know your exact problem but if you think the lifters slightly rusted or clogged ID shoot some mixed 50%/50% carb cleaner and marvel mystery oil down the push rod and let it sit over night after removing the rocker temporarily, then re-install the rocker and adjust it at idle so it clicks lightly, so it will tend to shake loose, if after about 30 minutes run time try to preload all the rockers only 1/4 turn, past the point the clicking just stops, and verify that oil flows freely from all the rockers or the lifter needs replacement Edited October 8, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HZ Ryder Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Would you know if it is legal to put a what appears to be a marine engine into a Z. According to the vendor it is a 350.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) LEGAL, depends mostly on how YOU file the papers, during the registration process and the components you use during the rebuild before its installed, marine engines have some changes made but are basically the same block,crank,heads as a typical car engine of the same year/displacement. in most cases the cams not designed to operate well near idle, for smooth torque in a car. or pass emissions testing many marine engines that have been run in SALT water, use the salt water for coolant and as a result have major rust in the coolant passages and corrosion problems, a percentage are REVERSE ROTATION and need major changes during a rebuild to even be run in a car.marine engines tend to get replaced because they rust rapidly from the inside out as they get wet internally with plain water then left wet for weeks at a time Edited October 23, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschiltz Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Grumpy, what is your preferred method of checking bearing clearance on main caps and rod ends? Plasti-gauge or micrometers or something else? Plastigauge seems like it has the potential to be not all that accurate, but I've never used it. Thanks Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) plasti-gauge is an excellent cross check tool, easy to use and accurate, if used correctly, and I would not be a bit concerned if thats all you had to check bearing clearances, I use a fairly expensive set of mics, and snap gauges but I always cross check with plasti-gauge, and you ll be surprised at how accurate its really is http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1026&p=1900#p1900 Edited October 29, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5litre z31 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 please let us know what you find as it will help others Hello again Grumpy I have done as many checks as I can and came up with throw the roller rockers in the round file and forget them buy a new set and start the tune again and I am pleased to tell you it has worked very well to the point of my 15 = 8's and 235 tyres can no longer get grip yes I can smoke them at 60mph rolling. So here was the problem the roller rockers that came assembled and adjusted on my 383 crate motor were the 2 on one shaft stainless so if you don't have a big rattle then one valve is always in the open condition lesson learnt. After finding this I looked further and yes they are advertised and sold by the same company that I purchased the motor from as non adjustable stainles rolers, glad I didn't drive very far as all seems to be ok now next will be a quater run to see what it wil do on 7/11/09 thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Im always glad to help, and its great to know you were able to diagnose and cure the problem, CONGRATS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HZ Ryder Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Grummpy thanks for the information.. you also highlighted something that I NEVER would have thought about... salt water cooling and what it can do. I passed on the motor and went with a fuel injected 88 350.. The engine has according to the seller 86K, he is the second owner. I picked it up for about 750 and it came with a complete wiring harness, ECU, accessories, sensors, etc. I hope to use the following parts from my Gen II 350, which pushed 350hp TFS Twisted Wedge aluminum heads Keith Black flat top hypereutectic pistons ( don't know) Crane Powermax #114142 camshaft. (216, 228 @.050 - 112 LSA) Summit aluminum roller rocker Not sure, if I should play with my gen III and use a combination of the parts I listed above with some tweeking to bring the 350 up to 400.. My wish, or should I go and stroke it out to 383.. which means even more $$$$$$$$.. I really would like to keep everything, not counting the cost of the motor to under 1K. Thoughts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I recently reassembled my 383 with a new comp cams hydraulic roller 282 (p/n 08-432-8) and put a new cheapo ebay special bronze gear on the distributor (I previously had a used slp51010 cam in it before and ran the whole time on one bronze gear that I can remember but just figured if I put a new cam in I would start with a new gear). So a few days ago (and a little less than a thousand miles later) I pull the dipstick out and get some major shiny stuff floating around in the oil. So I pull the distributor out and the bronze gear is almost eaten completely through! To me it seems ridiculous to have to replace something this quickly. I've heard about a composite gear (comp 12200) which is a little over a hundred dollars. In my thinking if this composite gear lasts longer than 3 bronze gears then I've actually saved money. And supposedly the bronze gears only last 10-15k miles anyway. Have you ran either of these? I know you like the pressed in gear and crane cams better but I've got to work with what I've got! haha. I've also seen the recommendations for slotting the distributor and even the block. I'm just wondering what your experiences have been (and anyone's for that matter) with the bronze or "composite" gear. I do also have a melonized gear which I know is for the stock roller cams but I haven't heard conclusively that I can use it on this billet cam and I don't care to take the chance unless I'm fully convinced. Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1701 when you get rapid wear on a distributor gear is almost always the result of mis-matched materials in the cam and distributor gears or lack of adequate lubrication if you have a gear go bad in under 1000-1500 miles its probably both. Id sure call the cam manufacturer and verify the correct cam gear material is being used on the distributor gear too match the cam your using,a distributor or cam gear that's correctly lubricated and made of the correct material should easily last 60-80kk or more, like a stock gear normally will on a stock cam, and don,t fall for the crap about it being the result if a high volume oil pumps extra load on the gears, that's not the cause if it wore out that fast, you've got other issues. obviously step one will be to change oil and filter at a minimum, (personally Id disassemble and clean out the engine, oil passages and replace the bearings but hey that's just me)you may get by with an oil and filter change, but the fact that you'll probable see crud indicating rapid cam gear /distributor gear wear on the dipstick would indicate to me that fine metallic craps getting pumped to the bearings,rings, lifters,rockers etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rucus01 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Grumpy, I have a 77 S30 with a mopar 440 in it. The engine is 10.7:1 compression, has a custom grind comp cam hyd roller 224/230 112lsa with .585 lift. I have sandersan shorty block huggers with 1 7/8 primaries going into dual 3" pipes. I have installed a edelbrock pro-flo 2 system and I am having transient fuel problems. The system has a 35 lb/hr fuel injectors in it. The engine idles reasonably well, and drives well as long as you dont nail it. When you nail it goes lean regardless of how much transient fuel you add. Is there a way I can determine if I am having ignition problems or if the injectors are really too small? I have a crane hi-6 going into a blaster 2 coil. I am concerned that I might spend $500 bucks for a set of higher flowing injectors and still have the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1200 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202 the size injector you have should support about 450 max hp,if you can maintain a stead 40-44 psi of fuel pressure, (most injectors only reach rated flow at 43.5 psi)the 440 mopar should easily reach that hp level if its correctly tuned,without knowing your fuel pressure or rpm range its rather difficult to guess but reading the spark plugs, after a hard pass and shutting the engine off should give you a good indication, you are almost certainly running an injector that's borderline or too small if you want to maintain the best f/a ratio personally ID have selected a 45-48 lb injector for that application, and IM sure your aware that CAM DURATION could be increased to about the 245-250 range with that compression ratio and youll gain significant hp, but naturally the cars drive train needs to match the cam change, if you do so. Edited October 26, 2009 by grumpyvette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rucus01 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1200 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=202 the size injector you have should support about 450 max hp,if you can maintain a stead 40-44 psi of fuel pressure, (most injectors only reach rated flow at 43.5 psi)the 440 mopar should easily reach that hp level if its correctly tuned,without knowing your fuel pressure or rpm range its rather difficult to guess but reading the spark plugs, after a hard pass and shutting the engine off should give you a good indication, you are almost certainly running an injector that's borderline or too small if you want to maintain the best f/a ratio personally ID have selected a 45-48 lb injector for that application, and IM sure your aware that CAM DURATION could be increased to about the 245-250 range with that compression ratio and youll gain significant hp, but naturally the cars drive train needs to match the cam change, if you do so. I am sure it is going lean (I have a lc-1 with a guage and you can see it briefly go up when u stomp it) I just am not sure if its not getting enough gas or if its just not lighting it correctly. I bought the bigger kit that edelbrock sells and they claim it supports 550 HP. They do offer a 42 lb injector set I can buy that they claim supports up to 620 hp. I guess I could buy those and see if it helps. As far as the cam I use to run a 242/242 108lsa. I was looking for something with a better idle. It still doesnt have a smooth idle, but its more tolerable. I have a set of indy heads with a stage 1 port (bowl) port done on them and I imagine some of the idle roughness comes from low port velocity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxfiend1967 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) I recently reassembled my 383 with a new comp cams hydraulic roller 282 (p/n 08-432-8) and put a new cheapo ebay special bronze gear on the distributor (I previously had a used slp51010 cam in it before and ran the whole time on one bronze gear that I can remember but just figured if I put a new cam in I would start with a new gear). So a few days ago (and a little less than a thousand miles later) I pull the dipstick out and get some major shiny stuff floating around in the oil. So I pull the distributor out and the bronze gear is almost eaten completely through! To me it seems ridiculous to have to replace something this quickly. I've heard about a composite gear (comp 12200) which is a little over a hundred dollars. In my thinking if this composite gear lasts longer than 3 bronze gears then I've actually saved money. And supposedly the bronze gears only last 10-15k miles anyway. Have you ran either of these? I know you like the pressed in gear and crane cams better but I've got to work with what I've got! haha. I've also seen the recommendations for slotting the distributor and even the block. I'm just wondering what your experiences have been (and anyone's for that matter) with the bronze or "composite" gear. I do also have a melonized gear which I know is for the stock roller cams but I haven't heard conclusively that I can use it on this billet cam and I don't care to take the chance unless I'm fully convinced. Thanks for any help! I am using the composite gear and have had no problems. comp guarantees 100000 mikes with gear.I did have machine shop set up cam endplay. hope this helps ps if you use melonized gear it will enjoy eating your cam he he in other words dont even think about it Edited October 29, 2009 by saxfiend1967 left \out something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcraft Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I have a sbc 383 gen1 in a 71 240 z .Grumpy i hope you can save me a little grief as a newb my oil pan was leaking so i went and bought a nice felpro gasket to replace my leaking cork one .Well i took all the bolts out and i dont have enough clearence to drop the pan .The front of the oil pan just clears the steering rod only allowing me to drop the back down about 2 inches.what should i do ?Im hoping i dont have to lift the engine just to change the gasket but im afraid even if i remove that rod ill then get stuck on the crossmember.Man do i feel dumb any suggestions appreciated.Imagine i just bought a procharger from ebay and i wanted to try to hook it up myself. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 not being there I can,t tell you exactly the required clearances but what I would suggest is having a buddy use a long ratchet to slowly turn the engine as you try to remove the pan as in many cases the counter weights on the crank , if they are in the lower 180 degrees of rotation,prevent the oil pan from moving to the rear, thats necessary to get the oil pan off on corvettes and it might be on your car, unless the counter weights on the front cylinders are in the upper rotational location, Id also suggest removing the distributor before you go loosening the engine mounts and lifting the engine slightly if you go that route to prevent damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 tomcraft: First get a 1-piece pan gasket NOT made of cork. Use an engine RTV and glue the one-piece gasket to the pan with the RTV and let it cure. Then fill in the four corners of the front and back of the engine pan rail, front cover, and rear cap, with radiused fillets (points of probable leak) of RTV and let in cure. Suspect that there needs to be NO RTV on the top side of the pan gasket as it mates with clean machined surfaces. If the block pan rails, front cover and rear main cap are not clean, do clean them till clean. Hope the rear seal was not the point of the leak! If so this needs to be replace before closing up the engine and pan. With the pan rails clean, front cover groove and rear main cap clean, put the pan back up and tighten the pan bolts. Before putting the pan back on, clean the pan bolt holes and pan bolts very clean with brake cleaning spray fluid. Install the pan and bolt and tighten. Then, with some miles on it after replacing the pan gasket, go back and remove pan bolts one at a time and put on BLUE thread lock and tighten ONE AT A TIME. This will keep it tight and sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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