AK-Z Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I have 2 sheared bolts in my flywheel. Makes me pissed. I even tried looking up torque specs, but this site was down. damn servers. and I just had it resurfaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Use the EZ bolt extractors. Its like a tap but the thread is tapered and reversed. You drill a hole in the center of the sheared bold and as you work the extractor into the hole it will spin out the broken bolt. Make sure you spray lots of penetrant first. I once broke a bolt extractor in a sheared bolt..... Now thats a problem!!!!!! http://www.brandsplace.com/tool-hand-tools-screw-and-bolt-extractors.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 A lot of broken bolts are actually loose after they are broken. It depends on why they are broken. If they are bottomed out in the female thread I prefer to use a center drill and start a hole in the center of the bolt. One may center punch to start. Use a center drill that's a lot smaller than the bolt. I like a #1 with a 3/64" point. Use optivisors to visually check to be sure the hole is centered pretty good before going to deep. You can tilt the drill motor and drive the tip to center if need be. Get a good start then go to a standard twist drill of a diameter smaller than the tap drill you would use to make the thread that you are working with and drill all the way through the bolt. If the bolt is a 1/4-20 for instance, try an approxamate #23 or 24 drill size. I then will step up in size until it can be seen that only the threads are left. You can usually pick the material out with tweezers or small pliers or run a tap into the hole to clean out the treads. If the bolt is loose you can tell by using a scribe point and pushing the bolt around. If that is the case you may try to rotate the bolt with your scribe or some other tool or you may use a Dremel type tool with a cut-off wheel and grind a screwdriver slot to remove the bolt. I find myself removing a lot of broken screws and bolts for people and have done so for a long time. Some of them are very small and these techniques and a few others have worked very well. I've never liked "easy-out's". I hope this long winded post is helpful, good luck. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I have 2 sheared bolts in my flywheel. Makes me pissed. I even tried looking up torque specs, but this site was down. damn servers. and I just had it resurfaced. Make sure you are using grade 8 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwnwar Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 A small hammer and punch to tap/rotate it out has worked for me.. I would try this before drilling. Replace ALL bolt with graded bolts and lock washers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 Make sure you are using grade 8 bolts. Oh I forgot about that . I was just going to go down to the nissan dealer and see if they have some bolts part number: 3022e4100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzed Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I've used all sorts of extractors with hit and miss success. The best way I've found for removing a broken bolt or stud is to take a nut about the same size and weld it to the broken bolt through the hole while holding it up to the surface with an old pair of pliers. This works great on old rusty studs as it heats the stud and helps it to release from the base material. This works best with a mig welder but I have done it with a stick years ago before I had a mig. Try to make sure you are only rotating the nut and not putting any side forces on it as the connection between the nut and stud is not always perfect. It may take several tries if the stud is really stuck. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 at least with a FLYWHEEL its easily detachable and you can generally get to both ends of the threaded hole the bolts in once its detached from the crank. Id suggest lots of penetrateing oil and use of a DRILL PRESS with a reverse twist drill bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 at least with a FLYWHEEL its easily detachable and you can generally get to both ends of the threaded hole the bolts in once its detached from the crank.Id suggest lots of penetrateing oil and use of a DRILL PRESS with a reverse twist drill bit! My drill press doesn't have a reverse . I drilled a hole in each one. It was scary to see the bold start to go in a little because of the rotation. used an easy out to get them out. one of them broke an easy out bit so I had to redrill it and us a bigger one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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