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HybridZ

260Z 2+2 1974 Project +1000hp


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All the brackets done (ic, radiator, oil cooler and front bumber) I made also tow hook (red)

 

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I got some parts again. Brake hoses, New Hub for carbonetic clutch and R154 transmission, New door locks and ignition switch and some smaller things.

 

RMG_8821.jpg?m=1369507151RMG_8827.jpg?m=1369507143

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  • 8 months later...

I just found this thread and I have learned so much about cage fitment and even space management in a shop (I'm trying to design a shop for myself to put on a very small piece of property).  So totally subscribed! Absolutely incredible project.

 

A couple things.  I ran my lines inside the transmission tunnel, but if I ever build another car, I will not do that again.  There's just not much room up there and driveshafts break (I've broken one and tweaked two others).  Also, if there is a problem with the line, you gotta pull your engine/trans/diff.  I'm sure you've dealt with it before, but that has just been my experience on the only build I've ever done. Next time, I will either run the lines thru the interior (yeah, I know they can break there too), or along the "frame rail."  Your car is awesome, I'm about to go thru the whole thread and all the pictures.  Also, think about using a metal battery box if you ever want to do any NHRA stuff.  I bet you know your rulebook better than I do, but I think a metal box will satisfy everybody.  I have a plastic box to satisfy SCCA, but now that I am adding NHRA racing, I have to re-do it.  I get tired of re-doing things (maybe I should reconsider this hobby).  LOVE your hydraulic ebrake bracket to the tunnel.  But, be advised, you will probably bend that handle within a few pulls-that flat aluminum is extremely soft.  I had a similar set up and bent it on the second try of the system.

 

Can you spend some time talking about the Wilwood calipers that have a mechanical parking brake?  Please PM the details and part numbers.  I can't tell (I've only gone thru 275 of your 635 pictures), but I wonder how large of a wheel is required to clear the mechanical part of the assembly?  I have AZC wilwoods on my car and I need to squeeze 15" wheels on my car for drag racing.  I'm wondering if I could switch to that caliper and have the best of both worlds.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Battery isn´t installed yet. That plastic thing would be only cover to avoid electric shortcuts, but maybe I change that when I´m doing it.

 

Someone asked about those Wilwood calipers earlier, but I ordered from here: http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=11370

 

I can´t recommend before I have driven my car, mut it feels that mechanical handbrake got enought power for parking brake. (maximum vehicle weight 750Kg) is mentioned, but I don´t know what is REAL problem when caliper is made from basic 4-spot Wilwood Powerlite, and hydraulic braking power is enought.

With those disc width 0.35-0.50" or 0.79-0.86", it is not a real "racing car" caliper for sure.

 

I´m sure those can be fitted to 15" wheels. My current setup is 278x10 mm rear disc. Caliper adapter is my own design.

Edited by Toni L
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  • 1 month later...

I have spent time making electronics. Fuel pump control:

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Made engine mounts stronger:

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More electronics:

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New turbo. Watercooled Holset 71.5mm / 80mm #22. Something like 900hp turbo compared to previous ~750hp.

 

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Fuel pressure regulator:

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And something else.. New battery bracket etc.

 

TSCF0288.jpg?m=1393707861TSCF0317.jpg?m=1394383225

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  • 2 months later...

I bought eletronic power steering assistant and new upper steering column, but this might be later project.

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More electronic work:

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New wheels and tires. Image BBM 17x10 & 17x11 and Toyo R888 (not together yet)

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And something else:

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