Mike Rowe Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 What a great combination of brains, knowledge, experience, and resourcefulness this site lends to us!!!! Between all you of us we now have established: Water temp gauge - Use S13 or R32 Skyline sensor Part No 25080-89903 Oil pressure gauge - Use Z original sensor screws straight in Amps/Volt meter - no change Oil Temp Gauge - I used an additional water temp gauge fitted above the oil pressure gauge and used the Z original water temp sensor that screws in the RB20 sump. (see my website) Speedo - use Navara D21 Ute mechanical gearbox Pinion Assembley Part No 3270202G17 Now we just need to sort the Tacho & the Boost gauge: Boost Gauge - Remove Clock - replace with Autometer Boost gauge, fits in housing. Just not sure where you link the gauge up to on the motor - anyone know? Tacho - need some sort of resistance built for the tacho - anyone figured that one out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Water temp gauge - Use S13 sensor Part No 25080-89907 I thought it was 25080-89903, unless your S14 sensor works after more testing? Tacho - need some sort of resistance built for the tacho - anyone figured that one out? for the tachometer, it might make sense to hook up two tachs to the engine, and use a linear potentiometer (or various ones) of different values and rotate the dial until both tachs are reading the same engine RPM. I mean using an aftermarket known-to-work tach and a standard tach. just a thought. Not sure if it would work, as the resistor may just limit the resistance to a set RPM, but at least you could find out what the ohm's reading on the potentiometer is, and do some math to figure out what kind of a conditioning circuit we would need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 AHA! I knew something like this could be done. check it: http://intellivationdesign.com/4Runner/TachMod.htm Potentiometers are the way to go for testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Boost Gauge - Remove Clock - replace with Autometer Boost gauge, fits in housing. Just not sure where you link the gauge up to on the motor - anyone know? Mechanical Boost guages will need a vacuum line going to a vacuum port on the manifold. If you want to run the original Boost Guage from a Nissan Cluster, you need a "Boost Sensor" which I know are located infront of the drive side strut mount. Here's some info on RB20DET Boost Sensor and Factory Guage wiring (Nico): To get the boost gauge to work you will need the boost pressure sensor from the clip (near the brake master cylinder) and the associated wiring. If you remove the chassis harness and unwrap the boost sensor plug all the way back to the SMJ (huge wire connector deal) you will have more than enough wire to run to the cluster. The wires for the boost pressure are as follows White/blue goes to the gauge cluster for the boost gauge Black/yellow is ground, so tie it into a ground. Green is the power wire so tap it into the ignition switch wire on the cluster (also green). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 I'd say stock type Nissan gauges aren't very accurate. Plus the metric Bar readings are less desirable for me anyways. I like where this thread is headed though and can feel a sticky coming. Also loved the idea to use 2 Water temp gauges for oil and water. I too am one in favor of keeping all stock gauges. That AutoGage looks great and very stock like (saw from your website). I'll probably use the same one. I haven't found much info on the tachs though. It'd also be nice to konw the difference between the 3-wire, 4-wire tachs, and which ones use magnetic pickup or the coil signal (I hear 4-wire = inductive pickup, 3-wire = current version (pre-74). Anyways, i'm ranting...but appreciate the input and effort here. Mark (260z - rb25det in the works) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 I thought it was 25080-89903, unless your S14 sensor works after more testing? Sorry Careless you are correct, I was being "Careless" in my excitement! It is indeed 89903 I have changed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 A guy sent me this a couple of weeks back for the tacho - dont know if it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaspendlove Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 great info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Well more info to complete the picture. The sensor 25080-89903 not only is it in the S13 models, but it is also in the early Skylines, GTR's etc. So if you have a motor from an R32 then it already has the correct sensor (25080-89903). That is why my original GTR sensor (R32) came up so close to the Z sensor (obviously testing error). The 89907 sensor that I incorrectly purchased is in the S14's and also in the R33 Skyline model engines - hence why some of you have had to change them. This has been confirmed by my Nissan parts dealer. I have added the R32 skyline to the notes at the beginning of this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 I am not at a stage to check the tacho as my motor is not running yet. Can someone try the wiring diagram I submitted above to see if it works. If it does then we have solved all the issues to allow full use of the original Z gauges! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Well more info to complete the picture.The sensor 25080-89903 not only is it in the S13 models, but it is also in the early Skylines, GTR's etc. So if you have a motor from an R32 then it already has the correct sensor (25080-89903). That is why my original GTR sensor (R32) came up so close to the Z sensor (obviously testing error). The 89907 sensor that I incorrectly purchased is in the S14's and also in the R33 Skyline model engines - hence why some of you have had to change them. This has been confirmed by my Nissan parts dealer. I have added the R32 skyline to the notes at the beginning of this thread uhhhhhhhhhh, did you see this post I made? we got a bunch more donors, not just the R32... more like 200+ donor vehicles for sensors: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=948383&postcount=266 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 Gotcha. Amazing number. Anyway regarding the RB25 & 26 I presume if you have the R32 no change is required. If you have the R33 or later you need to change to the R32 sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 This sounds like what is needed does anyone know if this would work for the tach? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D8132&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Tacho - need some sort of resistance built for the tacho - anyone figured that one out?Would this thread of use with regards to the tach question?http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77638&highlight=modified+tach I assume the issue is the older inductive pickup of the 240z tach ie getting a signal from the +tive side of the coil not the -tive like most modern tachs. Anyway if this is the case check out the thread above that talks about how to get the 240z tach to work on the -tive side of the coil (I know that the RB does not have a single coil but most stand-a-lone ECU will have a tach signal wire that replicates this/sends the correct signal). One method is to put the guts from a 280z tach into the 240z housing. Or you can do what I have done and have a gauge guy install a new driver into the tach. Again see the thread above for what was done to my tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Post 7 A guy sent me this a couple of weeks back for the tacho - dont know if it works Sorry to bump from the dead, but does anyone have any definitive info on getting the 280z 3-wire tach to work with the rb's logic signal. I've read some have simply used a pullup resistor and had it work, and others couldn't get it to work no matter how they fiddled with it. I've also read some modify the tach by removing a resistor and that helps it to work with things like an MSD unit. Just so many sources floating around it'd be nice to have a final word. With so many claiming no success, I may attempt to build a negative coil emulator (with a coil/inductor). I likely intend to build the same circuit as in post 7, as it seems the most likely chance of success (gives you that 30v+ spike that perhaps the stock tach needs). Here's a good read for those wondering why the tach might not work...explains the coil (-) signal and the signal that the ECU gives... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/6355-tacho-tech.html And a detailed writeup on building one: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/22574-how-tacho-booster.html other NPN transistors will work as well, so dont' get hung-up on that if you intend to try this out. Any thoughts appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 This is very nice! While most of you know that the stock gauges suck, it's always nice to keep the stock gauges for the sleeper/vintage look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusioneclipse Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 On 10/26/2008 at 1:45 AM, Mike Rowe said: Speedo - use Navara D21 Ute mechanical gearbox Pinion Assembley Part No 3270202G17 I ordered this part no for my 78 280z stock speedo with RB20 transmission. It seems longer than what's suppose to go inside. Is this the right P/N for RB20 transmission with 78 280z stock speedo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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