grumpyvette Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 personal opinion! that looks like an EXCELLENT WAY to have a car pre- set -up too fall off a lift, look at it this way,simple geometry says supporting each corner is far more stabile than ballancing the car fron the center even if the total foot print of the 4 jack stands was only equal to the single lift base, the lift is far less stabile than a quality jack stand placed under each corner of the car and you would be out of your mind to place the car that high on jack stands that are not anchored down,,so why would a lift thats not anchored down and less stable be a good option, one good shove and that cars over on its side, that and the fact theres little or nothing gained in access under the car with that lift, over 4 12 ton jack stands once the tires clear the floor by a few inches, and you can easily use a mechanics creeper to access most of it http://kwiklift.com/commercial.htm http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=98 at least with these two designs the base is wide enought to be more stabile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Yup! Who puts a lift in thier kitchen anyways. First pic. Second lift looks much more stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kman Art Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 If anybody is interested, I should be able to get dealer prices on Rotary lifts http://www.rotarylift.com/ I can take a few photos of the lifts we are using in the shop as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Yup! Who puts a lift in thier kitchen anyways. First pic. Second lift looks much more stable. it's obvious that they're old kitchen furnishings that were moved into the garage during a renovation. what's wrong with it? I would love two corvettes in my kitchen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maria_David Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 hi everyone... Nice to find the great place with lots of useful information... thanks to all the members for sharing useful info, idea and links... take care Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I can easily imagine accidentally bumping hard into your Corvette and having it topple sideways onto your Corvette. That might just make you think twice about buying a cheaply designed lift for your car. Plus, it would ruin the linoleum in your kitchen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I guess my opinion is, if you have enough money to have cars like those, a garage than nice, why skimp on a lift? I'd like to see the rest of the garage. That looks to be an add on where the cars are parked. Notice how the roof line goes up. Maybe there is a nice 4 post up front? Either way, I agree, not worth the risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I dont see this scissor lift as ideal in any way but I cant imagine it just toppling over....not if you properly secure one end to the floor with bolts. Im sure its good for fluid changes, wheel changes and the odd brake job. And if you have the cash it sure brings in a level of out doing your car buddies I have a Kwiklift...its great but a compromise due to a lack of ceiling height. Edit...the kitchen theme is a bit fufu...I would opt for a more manly approach. Drop the pretty curtins and throw up a plasma! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 kwiklift for the win!!!! I've had mine for 3+ years now, look at it as an expensive and safe jack stand, versitile too!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Somehow I imagine that was just something the guy did with his transmission jack to show off how light these new 'vettes are.... Incidentally, we just bought a nice asymmetrical bend-pak for 1500 and its going up at the shop tomorrow, w00t w00t I say!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I will have to get pics of my uncle's lift when I am over there next week. He just added a new single bay metal framed garage with a lift. The man is crazy. Although I will be doing this in my next house as well. It is a commercial styld lift that will pick up his LX460 and his prowler. It has a low ground clearance so that it will lift where you put the arms. It is not a drive up lift. Gives easy acess to in and out and underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 it's obvious that they're old kitchen furnishings that were moved into the garage during a renovation. "Old"? Those fittings and furnishings are better looking than what I have in my kitchen. I'm just glad to see someone with two Corvettes has the same idea about using those dual french doors to get the cars inside the house for work to commence! I don't feel bad about running the snowmobiles into the dining room any more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxsleeper Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Here is my solution, got installed this past Saturday in my home shop (still under construction): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Nicely done. Did you use 12" material for your rafters? I would think that they would be the only material that would span the distance needed in order to not sag in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxsleeper Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Nicely done. Did you use 12" material for your rafters? I would think that they would be the only material that would span the distance needed in order to not sag in the future. Thanks. Yup, they are engineered trusses of 12". Shop is 24' deep x 32' wide with ~14'x20' storage area upstairs. I used a "lifted" scissor truss for the high bay area. Here is another shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARZ_ Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Yea I have that same Challenger lift in my garage, and I love it. It works great, but for really low cars (my other Z, and customers cars) I have to drive them up on 2x6's I have had my Suburban and Sequoia on it too. I saw this site the other day http://www.ezcarlift.com/ and I would have completely discounted it except that my friend said it worked great and all you needed was a drill motor. Its portable (if you need that) its light weight and it looks like its pretty adjustable. You might need blocks to pick up the pinch welds on the bottom of the rockers to lift an old school Z Grumpyvette: I saw your sig, LOL, when I can roast the tires from 60+ I need new tires. LOL. 70mph tire cleaning, look closely at the tires. http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/Videos/tire_cleaning.wmv http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/Videos/another_70mph.wmv sorry for the hyjack, now back to the topic. I couldnt tell if you were actually looking for a lift or just asking for opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filmjay Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 ............I saw your sig, LOL, when I can roast the tires from 60+ I need new tires. LOL.70mph tire cleaning, look closely at the tires. http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/Videos/tire_cleaning.wmv http://www.arizonaperformance.com/parts_photos/Videos/another_70mph.wmv sorry for the hyjack, now back to the topic. BOO! No smoke! j/k Still faster than anything I've got right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 ever notice my signature, line, IVE used for years "if you can’t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs more work!" I drove a 13.7:1 cpr CROWER INJECTED 496 BIG BLOCK CORVETTE, for several years. IM familiar with the problem, of nearly zero traction under full throttle, conditions at under 60 -70mph first step, Maximize the current traction from the current tires; the wrong pressure can reduce effective traction by over 30% step one, play with the tire pressure until you get a full tread width and equally dark patch of rubber on the pavement, most guys run about 23-30 psi of tire pressure on the street, on the track you want the front tires up at about 30 psi to reduce rolling resistance but you’ll need to experiment , doing a few launches on concrete so you can get a good indication of the tread contact patch area, adjusting/playing with the rear tire pressure until you can get a full tread width black tire stripe on the pavement that’s equally dark full width to get max traction, if the centers darker the pressures usually a bit too high , if the edges are darker its a bit too low. next learn to launch the car smoothly, at the lowest rpm that will allow minimal tire spin to occur over the whole launch and into second gear, and yet still maintain the tire spin without the engine bogging as your running thru the first 60 feet on the track, once you get those factors under control you’ll find you’ll do better :thumbsup: once you leave the track reduce the front tire pressure until you get max traction, usually near 23 psi here’s a practice tree try to stay under .525-.530 reaction time http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/nhraxtreesp.html Step two Learn your equipments little quirks, your not going to be able to floor the accelerator pedal suddenly, especially on wet or sandy pavement, GET USED TO THAT FACT! And COMPENSATE by learning how to slowly depress the accelerator pedal and control and minimize the wheel spin. Step three high acceleration requires both better brakes and planning your reactions MUCH further in advance and a longer distance between starting your response and expecting results, get used to that and learn to expect it. step 4 air shocks, stiffer anti roll bars and bigger brakes are your friends but planning ahead and driving like you understand the cars quirks’ and potential for getting into trouble will go a very long way towards preventing problems, IE just because you CAN do something does not mean you SHOULD do it! besides its fun to cruise in top gear at 3000rpm at lets say 70mph and without even down shifting , smoking the tires as you leave some ricer in the dust from a roll without even seeming to put any effort what so ever into doing it:D :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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