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Stock 7MGTE


savageskaterkid

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I may be getting my hands on a fairly cherry 7MGTE as a buddy is starting his 2JZ swap into his mk3 supra. I was just wondering how a fairly stock 7M(intake, exhaust, FMIC) pulls the little Z around. I relize the Z weighs quite a bit less then that pig of a car. His car ran a best of 14.7 I believe with minor upgrades(catback and bov were really the only upgrades) I only know of the GVW of the supra is around 3600lbs, I'm not sure of its actual weight though, anybody know?

 

What I'm asking is if anyone has done a basic swap into the Z and how did it feel as compared to the L-series that was in it before? Was it worth it?

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Most the guys here will says it's not worth it..unless you get it cheap and can install it yourself..also the power goals you are trying to achieve have alot to do with it too..Is there anything wrong with your stocker??? In my case, for years i wanted to do a JZ or RB into a s30..so thats what I'm doing...forfilling my dream, whats yours?

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go ahead and get the 7m, make sure that you install a metal headgasket and some arp headstuds or bolts, you will also have to get the fron part of the driveshaft so that you can have a custom driveshaft for the r154 made also do your homework on the 7m at supramania.com and don't forget to use the search engine

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I know a nice bit of the 7MGTE engine. We have already done a headgasket replacement in this using ARP studs, but stock replacement headgasket torqued to 87 ft/lbs. I've read that people have increased the head torque and cleared up the issue with running higher then stock boost and still being reliable.

 

The motor made the supra decently quick for its time, and it being a pig didn't help. It has a nice smooth powerband and I like the thought of that in the Z.

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Torquing a stock type head gasket won't get you much. It will go too. I tried. It's a design flaw, not lack of torque. MLS is the only thing that will hold high boost and even then they still go. Most, NOT ALL, on Supramania and SF are 7M nutswingers that don't realize how bad the MKIII or 7M is. Not that it's horrible, just not the basis for a good performance but with enough money you can make anything fast. I would not do the swap again. Unless you get it complete with everything for under $500. There are so many better engines for just a little more that don't have the problems. Crazy long stroke, the heads don't flow that much either, a little more than a 2 valve L head. My stock long block L28 stock, made the same as my 7M with the same boost/ similar turbo and can rev an easy 500 rpm higher. I'm not trying to be negative, just honest on what I think about the 7M. I would sell mine in a second so I could do a VH45 if I could find a buyer.

 

With a/c my 73 weighs 2550lbs with 7M and r200. Not much more but a little more. It ran 13.0, 109 mph in the 1/4 with 9 psi on stock everything (intercooler, efi, afm, fuel pump, ect).

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Torquing a stock type head gasket won't get you much. It will go too. I tried. It's a design flaw, not lack of torque. MLS is the only thing that will hold high boost and even then they still go. Most, NOT ALL, on Supramania and SF are 7M nutswingers that don't realize how bad the MKIII or 7M is. Not that it's horrible, just not the basis for a good performance but with enough money you can make anything fast. I would not do the swap again. Unless you get it complete with everything for under $500. There are so many better engines for just a little more that don't have the problems. Crazy long stroke, the heads don't flow that much either, a little more than a 2 valve L head. My stock long block L28 stock, made the same as my 7M with the same boost/ similar turbo and can rev an easy 500 rpm higher. I'm not trying to be negative, just honest on what I think about the 7M. I would sell mine in a second so I could do a VH45 if I could find a buyer.

 

With a/c my 73 weighs 2550lbs with 7M and r200. Not much more but a little more. It ran 13.0, 109 mph in the 1/4 with 9 psi on stock everything (intercooler, efi, afm, fuel pump, ect).

 

Has anyone ever found why exacly the 7m blows head gaskets??? Most turbo cars i worked on were fine after a decked block/head..arp head studs and felpro gasket...I wonder if a o-ring block would cure the 7m woes...anyway just asking..

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Has anyone ever found why exacly the 7m blows head gaskets??? Most turbo cars i worked on were fine after a decked block/head..arp head studs and felpro gasket...I wonder if a o-ring block would cure the 7m woes...anyway just asking..

 

 

A different head might cure it. Everyone I've had blow and everyone I've seen, has blown on the exhaust side. Never seen one go on the intake side.

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I finished my 7m swap into my 71z recently and have been driving the car for a few weeks now. I also have a few friends that have been running the 7m for 8-10 years with the head mod and around 354-400whp with no problems. I have done a lot of suspension mods along with power steering and frame work. The car has been a total joy to drive with enough power to put a big smile on my face. It will easily out run my friends 2007 wrx sti. The long stroke makes for nice low end torque. The engine in my car has 80,000 miles on it and has never had a blown head gasket. I've been building and restoring cars since I was 15, i'm 42 now, all motors have flaws. This engine can be bought for cheap and has a very strong transmission that just bolts on, no fabrication like with some of the other engines. It fits easily with good weight distribution. Yes I know what fast is, I've had a yamaha r6,r1,125 shifter kart and IMO it is fast enough to have fun with and drive daily. I respect what Clifton has to say, but this engine gets really bad press that it doesn't deserve.

 

Karl

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A different head might cure it. Everyone I've had blow and everyone I've seen, has blown on the exhaust side. Never seen one go on the intake side.

 

i would argue against that comment. as 7m main flaw is the factory torq of the head is to low. and a metal HG with arp would fix the problem. ASSUMING your head AND block was machined right.

 

ive have 5 supras before 2 stock turbo. 1 60-1 trim. 1 57 trim and 1 a t78. after a heagasket job. not even a t78 at 20 psi blew the hg. thats on pump gas then i switch back to 18 b/c of det. to run on my daily driver for about 20k miles. then sold the car.

 

anyways if your really interested in the 7m read up on it at supramania or supraforums.

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I would assume by your name that you might believe the 7M is the best engine out there and may not see it's flaws. I'm not stuck on one engine as the best Most have short comings, the 7M has more than most, that's all.

 

It's not just a low torque thing. L28's have smaller head bolts only torques a few more pounds and rarely blow gaskets. Toyota's 3VZ has HG problems, 1FZ has problems, and the early 5VZ has problems. Blowing only on the exhaust side isn't from low torque.

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I would assume by your name that you might believe the 7M is the best engine out there and may not see it's flaws. I'm not stuck on one engine as the best Most have short comings, the 7M has more than most, that's all.

 

It's not just a low torque thing. L28's have smaller head bolts only torques a few more pounds and rarely blow gaskets. Toyota's 3VZ has HG problems, 1FZ has problems, and the early 5VZ has problems. Blowing only on the exhaust side isn't from low torque.

 

actually i do not think that 7m is the "best" engine by any means or even in close to it. i would MUCH rather have 2jz or ls1 and so on. however for the price i do believe that it is hard to beat. i mean how many engine out there can hit 500hp on stock internals?(assuming a HG is change ofcource.) i mean i have Personally ran 390whp on stock block with the only mod on the internal is the MHG. thats on an engine with 100k miles. (thats on a 57 trim/modded stock turbo.)

 

however I will agree for the price will vary. so if you plan to get these ONLINE or EBAY and your getting them at REGULAR price then i would add a few more bills and get a 1j. i personally would never pay over 500 for a stock 7m engine. i would lurk on supramania or supraforums for a deal b/c theres always something good. just last week a FULL 89 supra turbo 5-speed was forsale for ONLY $800.

 

 

anyways clifton i am curious in what other engines out there thats in low price range and capable of 450whp. im always down to try new engine thats in a low budget.:mrgreen:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought both of my 1uzfe's for 150.00 a peice, running complete. I can buy MS for 300.00, 500.00 for a GOOD turbo, and some other ods an ends, and for less than 1500.00 have a 600 RWHP setup. Clifton understands that the 7m's have their limits, and thats why he is now adding a couple needed cylinders, ha.

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anyways clifton i am curious in what other engines out there thats in low price range and capable of 450whp. im always down to try new engine thats in a low budget.:mrgreen:

 

I didn't see this until now. I'm with Bryan on the 1U. It is hard to make 500 rwhp with 3 liters on pump gas without spending crazy money on head and cam work and you still have a pretty high boost threshold.

 

I like the 1U too but like the VH45 a little more, a little more cc's and the heads flow a bit more than the early 1UZ. If I can get my engine sold (hopefully this week) I'll be doing the VH. I will keep the power the same, mid 500 rwhp with less boost but my off boost torque will be double and I can run the same turbo and with the extra displacement it should spool 50% faster:mrgreen: The VH n/a makes more rwhp and torque than a stock 2JZ with boost and they are dirt cheap. HP is good but having a broad power band is even better. They are cheap to swap and even with the stock c/r and low boost they will make pretty good power for very little money, I paid $600 for a whole running Q45.

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I bought both of my 1uzfe's for 150.00 a peice, running complete. I can buy MS for 300.00, 500.00 for a GOOD turbo, and some other ods an ends, and for less than 1500.00 have a 600 RWHP setup. Clifton understands that the 7m's have their limits, and thats why he is now adding a couple needed cylinders, ha.

 

c'mon now that would be unfair comparison b/c 1. you seem to get a good as deal for those engine lol

 

at that price if i can get one i would rather get that lol.

 

so i take it for 150 that comes with a tranny?

^^ if so dam dude hook it up lol

 

and i dont know much info about that engine but how long will that engine last stock everything at 600 rwhp? on pump gas? detonation?

 

and what turbo will flow at 600whp for $500?

 

how about turbo manifold?injectors?regulators?IC? piping?bov?etc. im sure that would add up way more than $550.

 

and since its v8 i would guess youll need twins wich means double parts=double cost.

 

i dont know about you but my welding skills is not capable of doing a custom manifold just as im sure ALOT of people are not that good iether.

 

 

again im talking about what PEOPLE would normally pay for. im NOT talking about what some people with hook up can get them b/c not everybody have one.

 

so i dont know about your price at 1500. that may just be YOUR price b/c of your connection. i could be wrong if so please point me where i can get all those parts that cheap :) b/c simple if everybody can get 600RWHP ar 1500 dont you think they would have gone that route? sh!t thats cheaper than a l28et swap at that level lol

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I didn't see this until now. I'm with Bryan on the 1U. It is hard to make 500 rwhp with 3 liters on pump gas without spending crazy money on head and cam work and you still have a pretty high boost threshold.

 

I like the 1U too but like the VH45 a little more, a little more cc's and the heads flow a bit more than the early 1UZ. If I can get my engine sold (hopefully this week) I'll be doing the VH. I will keep the power the same, mid 500 rwhp with less boost but my off boost torque will be double and I can run the same turbo and with the extra displacement it should spool 50% faster:mrgreen: The VH n/a makes more rwhp and torque than a stock 2JZ with boost and they are dirt cheap. HP is good but having a broad power band is even better. They are cheap to swap and even with the stock c/r and low boost they will make pretty good power for very little money, I paid $600 for a whole running Q45.

 

i didnt want to go v8 b/c of the fact that i would pay to much for a turbo kit. wouldnt you need twins? or will you be making a custom manifold yourself?

 

^^ plus an ls1 is to much of a price for the power that you get.

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i didnt want to go v8 b/c of the fact that i would pay to much for a turbo kit. wouldnt you need twins? or will you be making a custom manifold yourself?

 

^^ plus an ls1 is to much of a price for the power that you get.

 

Single, I still have the T72 I was running on my 7M.

 

600 rwhp on a stock 1U or VH isn't that hard. The more CC's the easier it is. I had over 500 rwhp on a stock block 200k mile 7m for over two years until a wastegate line came off:sad:. This was every time I drove it, not just sometimes. I paid $400 for a used T66 and $450 for the T72. If you shop around there are deals. There was an LS1 locally w/ T56 for $2500. They can easily do 400 rwhp with a cam and headers and have crazy power band. IMO that's pretty good for n/a and zero lag. I despise push rods or that would be my 1st choice.. It's not the max power but the curve.

 

BOV's are cheap, use a stock regulator. a 4" think IC is $150 shipped.

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Single, I still have the T72 I was running on my 7M.

 

600 rwhp on a stock 1U or VH isn't that hard. The more CC's the easier it is. I had over 500 rwhp on a stock block 200k mile 7m for over two years until a wastegate line came off:sad:. This was every time I drove it, not just sometimes. I paid $400 for a used T66 and $450 for the T72. If you shop around there are deals. There was an LS1 locally w/ T56 for $2500. They can easily do 400 rwhp with a cam and headers and have crazy power band. IMO that's pretty good for n/a and zero lag. I despise push rods or that would be my 1st choice.. It's not the max power but the curve.

 

BOV's are cheap, use a stock regulator. a 4" think IC is $150 shipped.

 

how are you setting up the turbo manifold? and what tranny will you be using?

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yah the drawback of both the vh45 and the 1uz, are that they both have crappy flowing heads. If you want to go v8, then go with an LS series motor, because their is way more aftermarket support, and the t56 bolts right up. If you want an I6, then go 1jz or 2jz.

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