how can you tell its a l28et?

[7MGFORCE]

ive been looking for this info and can find it. all i found is technical info diff.

 

i will be buying a 280zx and the owner said the turbo was remove and run it n/a BUT the block is turbo.

 

how do i check if its turbo block/pistons(from the outside) without ofcource tearing it down.

 

and how do i know its not a plain l28?

 

doesnt make sence to me as to why the owner would take out the turbo and run it like that. doesnt that mean an n/a ecu must be used?

 

and the valve covers are interchangeable right so i cant just based it on the turbo logo?

 

i guess this is the second engine.

[RJ280ZX]

you need to look at the block and head codes.

 

turbo motors had a P90 head and a F54 block

[B00STDZ]

Search my man....

 

 

 

...but to know if its an l28et check for either a p90 head and f54 block or p90a head and f54 block...

[7MGFORCE]

Search my man....

 

 

 

...but to know if its an l28et check for either a p90 head and f54 block or p90a head and f54 block...

 

^^ ya dude i search for like the whole day yesterday. and thats all the info i got.

 

f54 block and p90 or p90a(if 83) head.

 

 

BUT the info im looking for that i cant find is WHAT if its an N/A F54 block? how could i tell thats its a turbo or n/a F54?

[Gollum]

Pull a spark plug, shine a good flashliight down in there. The dish pistons have about a 1/2" flat section around the edge, then dip down. It's visible from the spark plug hole. You'll need a 27mm I think it is to turn the crank.

 

If it's a real turbo car it'll have turbo badges everywhere. Fender, hatch, steering wheel, center console, etc.

 

But I personally wouldn't be interested in a turbo car that's been converted to NA, turbo or NA block regardless. The value is in the turbo parts, not the block or the head.

[SHADY280]

if he is still using the turbo ecu and injectors, it will run rich, also check the dizzy, if its flat and round, its a turbo dizzy, if its narrower and taller its na dizzy,

[7MGFORCE]

Pull a spark plug, shine a good flashliight down in there. The dish pistons have about a 1/2" flat section around the edge, then dip down. It's visible from the spark plug hole. You'll need a 27mm I think it is to turn the crank.

 

If it's a real turbo car it'll have turbo badges everywhere. Fender, hatch, steering wheel, center console, etc.

 

But I personally wouldn't be interested in a turbo car that's been converted to NA, turbo or NA block regardless. The value is in the turbo parts, not the block or the head.

 

well this is going in my other 240z so i will be upgrading to a diff turbo. i have seen people swap the valve cover and say its turbo block so i wanted to know so when i get there to check out the car i would know what to look for.

[Gollum]

Again, what's there that's worth your time? If you're buying it for an engine then REALLY look into what it's got.

 

Does it have:

Turbo Dizzy

Turbo AFM

Turbo Manifold

Turbo Oil Lines

Turbo Oil Pan

Oil Cooler (only on auto models)

Turbo Fuel Injectors

Turbo throttle body

 

If it doesn't have those parts then you'll be finding your own solution.

 

If you just want a longblock (complete block and head) then just find a 81-83 NA engine for under $200. It'll have a much better compression ratio, be just as strong, and the the head flows just as good.

 

If you're going megasquirt then you'll want to go that route anyways, since you won't be keeping any of the turbo sensors.

 

If you're keeping the OEM fuel management, find a REAL turbo donor with ALL the turbo parts.

[Challenger]

Brown injector tops and a large pop off valve that is mounted on the top of the intake manifold.

[7MGFORCE]

Again, what's there that's worth your time? If you're buying it for an engine then REALLY look into what it's got.

 

Does it have:

Turbo Dizzy

Turbo AFM

Turbo Manifold

Turbo Oil Lines

Turbo Oil Pan

Oil Cooler (only on auto models)

Turbo Fuel Injectors

Turbo throttle body

 

If it doesn't have those parts then you'll be finding your own solution.

 

If you just want a longblock (complete block and head) then just find a 81-83 NA engine for under $200. It'll have a much better compression ratio, be just as strong, and the the head flows just as good.

 

If you're going megasquirt then you'll want to go that route anyways, since you won't be keeping any of the turbo sensors.

 

If you're keeping the OEM fuel management, find a REAL turbo donor with ALL the turbo parts.

 

well im really trying yo get a turbo block b/c i want to be running 350-400whp on these with MS.

 

and what do the turbo oil pan and throttle body looks like compare to n/a?

[280zx 2by2]

only true way to know is to look for the dish or no dish on the pistons... dish.. you got a turbo block

 

no dish.. you got a fish oil sales man

[Vintage]

well im really trying yo get a turbo block b/c i want to be running 350-400whp on these with MS.

 

and what do the turbo oil pan and throttle body looks like compare to n/a?

 

What advantage do you think the turbo block has over any other at that power level?

 

To answer your question, the turbo oil pan has a tube that connects to the (no longer there) turbo via a rubber hose.

[Challenger]

1fastZ preferred the early n42 blocks since the cylinders are siamesed. Might do some research on this.

[7MGFORCE]

What advantage do you think the turbo block has over any other at that power level?

 

To answer your question, the turbo oil pan has a tube that connects to the (no longer there) turbo via a rubber hose.

 

well simply put being turbo block the pistons are better equip for boost that i want to run. as i dont plan on rebuilding the first block that i put on the car. i want to see first if i like how the engine responce.

[Kennysgreen280zt]

You can also check to see if the oil pan has the hose fitting for the turbo return capped off. I found one at the junkyard like that.

[big-phil]

also look for the knock sensor threaded hole between the oil sending unit and the oil filter mount on the block.

[7MGFORCE]

also look for the knock sensor threaded hole between the oil sending unit and the oil filter mount on the block.

 

only turbo block came with knock sensor?

[Gollum]

well simply put being turbo block the pistons are better equip for boost that i want to run. as i dont plan on rebuilding the first block that i put on the car. i want to see first if i like how the engine responce.

 

Ummm... I hate to be the bring of bad news but WRONG!!! (and I mean that in as nice of was as possible). There's absolutely ZERO data out there that I'm aware of that says that the turbo block is capable of holding more POWER than the NA version. They have identical crankshafts, identical connecting rods, and identical piston material, simply dished. If anything the lack of quench on the turbo dish piston setup means that detonation will show up SOONER in relationship to POWER, meaning boom boom.

 

But if you're simply seeking BOOST numbers, then technically the turbo block will blow up at a higher PSI, correct, but most evidence would suggest a slightly lower POWER figure...

 

So again... please do some research. You're obviously new to these engines, and I don't mean to be rude, but I'd even say you're obviously new to working on cars in general. Read up, don't blow up an engine for no good reason. Most people that end up rebuilding their engine for 400+ hp tend to use flat top pistons anyways (similar to the NA engines), or at least a dish model that doesn't ruin the quench of the head.

 

also look for the knock sensor threaded hole between the oil sending unit and the oil filter mount on the block.

 

I think the NA model had a knock sensor as well. I'll check my 81' NA tomorrow for the knock sensor. I don't think it matters much though, as the ECU didn't do much with it anyways.

[280zx 2by2]

I think the NA model had a knock sensor as well. I'll check my 81' NA tomorrow for the knock sensor. I don't think it matters much though, as the ECU didn't do much with it anyways.

 

no NA's didnt have one, big-phil knows because he had to tap a hole for one(go youtube!!!) and they just noted that so he could identify the block as turbo or NA...

[7MGFORCE]

Ummm... I hate to be the bring of bad news but WRONG!!! (and I mean that in as nice of was as possible). There's absolutely ZERO data out there that I'm aware of that says that the turbo block is capable of holding more POWER than the NA version. They have identical crankshafts, identical connecting rods, and identical piston material, simply dished. If anything the lack of quench on the turbo dish piston setup means that detonation will show up SOONER in relationship to POWER, meaning boom boom.

 

But if you're simply seeking BOOST numbers, then technically the turbo block will blow up at a higher PSI, correct, but most evidence would suggest a slightly lower POWER figure...

 

So again... please do some research. You're obviously new to these engines, and I don't mean to be rude, but I'd even say you're obviously new to working on cars in general. Read up, don't blow up an engine for no good reason. Most people that end up rebuilding their engine for 400+ hp tend to use flat top pistons anyways (similar to the NA engines), or at least a dish model that doesn't ruin the quench of the head.

 

 

 

I think the NA model had a knock sensor as well. I'll check my 81' NA tomorrow for the knock sensor. I don't think it matters much though, as the ECU didn't do much with it anyways.

 

 

i work on supra motors alot and yes new to l28. so what your telling me is that i can boost an n/a engine just as much as a turbo block? not true with the 7m. stock turbo block can hold boost with no problem at 20+ psi and n/a 7m try that and see what happens(even with lower comp).

 

maybe i was wrong to assume that the l28 is the same? i assume that since it was an n/a, compression was higher so ofcource it would make more power at the same boost but the internals cant handle as much power. plus comp could be a problem but maybe not on the l28

 

and if im understanding you correctly a n/a l28e stock can handle the same AMOUNT of power/boost that a stock l28et can? then why is it that people dont run as much pressure on there turbo convertion compare to the stock turbo block? and from what ive read the turbo head(p90) is the best flowing head. so why would i want a p79 when i can get a p90?

 

and through my reading on the this forums people where advice no not run as much boost on an n/a blcok. was i reading that wrong? are you telling me that a n/a block can run as high of a boost that a turbo block can?

 

 

NOTE as i said i would like to BOLT this on WITHOUT any work on the block so THAT MEANS EVERYTHING STOCK. NO CHANGES. with that in mind are you still saying that i can run a stock n/a block to the same power(350-400whp) and be able to withstand the same amount of boost?

 

"400+ hp tend to use flat top pistons anyways (similar to the NA engines)"

forged pistons right? different material so that doesnt really justify it. unles your saying for 400hp+ people tend to use the stock flat top pistons lol.