Careless Posted December 26, 2008 Share Posted December 26, 2008 Has anyone seen these guys? http://www.supertechperformance.com/ They make valve train parts for the RB26. Dual coil spring setups. SS valves with nitride coatings. I'm still kinda leaning towards Ti valves with Bery ring copper seats, but I'm not sure... I want the best in valve train lightness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 I've installed the Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers in my RB26 but it's still months away from starting for the first time. They're priced right and seem to have a good product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Has anyone seen these guys? http://www.supertechperformance.com/ They make valve train parts for the RB26. Dual coil spring setups. SS valves with nitride coatings. I'm still kinda leaning towards Ti valves with Bery ring copper seats, but I'm not sure... I want the best in valve train lightness. Their sales reps seem very knowledgeable from when I talked with them last and I have heard their product is very good. I know my buddy that is into Honda's has heard of them and knows a bunch of people using their product. I am highly considering going with them but still trying to decide which of their spring sets to get and if I want to go with their lifters or stick with all Tomei parts... price wise the definitely have the advantage. I've installed the Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers in my RB26 but it's still months away from starting for the first time. They're priced right and seem to have a good product. Which springs did you go with? Are you using aftermarket lifters also? I have considered going with Supertech for springs and possibly lifters for my Tomei 280°/11.5mm cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 I changed the springs and retainers but stuck to the stock valves and seats. I've got HKS Step 2 camshafts #2202-RN133 Exhaust 280 Degree, Lift 10.8R32, which I'm afraid might be a little too radical, I'll find out when I start it up! My R32 RB26 HKS GTRS turbos JUN Oil Pump CP 86mm forged pistons Eagle rods Crankshaft nose oil pump extension ATI Super Damper Balancers #917752 with alt pulley Cosworth Head Gasket 87mm x 1.8mm Exedy Twin Plate Clutch (push) - NM032SD Nissan BNR32 RB26DETT Early 8/89- 2/93 Tomei Oil Restricter Supertech Valve Springs & Retainers N1 Water Pump HKS fuel rail-1407-RN003 GTR 11.0mm ACL rod /main bearings Camshaft pulleys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 StrokerZedd: Well its about time we see some pics of this beast! Looks fantastic! Good to see it in the car finally. Been a long road yes? Look forward to seeing it in person in the spring. Itching to get back on the road already, enough with the snow! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I changed the springs and retainers but stuck to the stock valves and seats. I've got HKS Step 2 camshafts #2202-RN133 Exhaust 280 Degree, Lift 10.8R32, which I'm afraid might be a little too radical, I'll find out when I start it up! That much spring and cam lift with the stock valves and you're going to find out the meaning of expensive pain. Stock intake valves love to pop the head off in engines revving 9,500+ with 10+ lift, high pressure springs and heavy retainers. The attached pictures are of valve drop #3 in one of my engines about 10 years ago. The first two times I thought it was a fluke... You can see how soft the stock valves are by how badly the keepers have imprinted the tip. One question I always ask people is if you can make 800hp with the stock valve train (including stock springs) and 272 cams with under 10mm of lift, why all the exotic stuff? You're significantly increasing the wear and tear on the engine for no real gains in the "under 750 club". "Berry-ring" is Tomei speak for beryllium seats. Transfers the heat out of the valve better than the stock seats. It's mainly used with titanium valves to keep them from wearing out so fast. Every time the valve slams closed, there's some "micro welding" that happens and erodes the seat and valve. Titanium doesn't wear near as fast on a beryllium seat as it does on a standard seat. It's the difference between a 1,000hp RB26 and a 1,100hp RB26. To each his own, but if you're planning on under 750hp, you need pistons, rods, cams, "A" springs are a good idea, aftermarket head bolts or studs. That's it. Never even lost a stock head gasket at this level. Keep the revs under 8,500 and it'll run forever. The RB26 has other limiting factors that set the power limit before you get to the level where some of these mods are needed. Case in point: All this new hi-tech stuff coming on the market as of late, but the engine hasn't made any substantial power gains in the last 10 years. Like I said, buy it if you want it, but remember that dual valve springs do not add reliability to the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
synthtk Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 That much spring and cam lift with the stock valves and you're going to find out the meaning of expensive pain. Matt, how do you think the stock valves would handle the Tomei 280/11.5 cams with only revving to 7500 or so? The cams are a bit bigger than I originally wanted but they were a really good deal so I picked them up. I am planning on doing an RB30 swap so will not be revving very high and know I need to get the solid lifters due to the smaller base circle of the cam and at least the Tomei B-Spec springs according to a local Tomei rep. Can you still get pretty good pricing on the Tomei stuff? Thanks -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Matt, how do you think the stock valves would handle the Tomei 280/11.5 cams with only revving to 7500 or so? The cams are a bit bigger than I originally wanted but they were a really good deal so I picked them up. I am planning on doing an RB30 swap so will not be revving very high and know I need to get the solid lifters due to the smaller base circle of the cam and at least the Tomei B-Spec springs according to a local Tomei rep. Can you still get pretty good pricing on the Tomei stuff? Thanks -Chris I don't really have any experience with the RB30, but with the RB26, the magic number seems to be 9,500. 8,500 with the big lifts and I've never had a problem. Haven't heard of any problems either, but that doesn't mean much... It's the higher revs with the valves bouncing around like mad. The problem with the 280's is that I can't remember ever seeing a dyno plot that made peak hp under 9,000 rpm! 280 cammed RB26's love to rev out to 10K. Even 264 camed engines with big turbos and the valve timing down around 110 and 115 love to rev to around 9,500. Maybe if you took out some overlap and kept it around 118 and 123 or so...? I'd look and see what the guys in Oz and NZ are doing for peak power rpm with the RB30's and big cams. Be nice to have all that power without revving the hell out of it. I like the stock valve size or even up to 1mm larger, but I would sport for aftermarket intake valves just in case. Never had a problem with the exhaust valves. I give around 15% off of list for Tomei, but right now with the strong yen, stuff from here will be expensive in US or AU $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Here's a vid of mine with 280 intake and exhaust. not reving mine past 9200. not sure i want to venture into that money pit. no problems so far. Like matt said until you go over the 750 range not much to the head is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 My 3.1 stroker had a big lumpy 505 degrees lift/300 degrees duration cam and I loved the sound so much I recorded 5 minutes of it idling before I pulled it and sold it to make way for my RB26. I've got the 280 Degree, Lift 10.8 cam and if mine sounds anywhere as good as this I'll be ecstatic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 270's at 1,100 rpm with cat and legal db muffler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCvIJXKjUXo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Matt, sorry to use you as an RB26 encyclopaedia, however out here in Aust there isnt a lot of people to ask. I believe I will be in enough trouble trying to handle the power of a standard GTR motor in my Z from the point of traction etc, and really was just looking for similar to the beautiful smooth 8k engine that my mate has in his GTR, which is basically standard. I want it to be quick but am not going for enormous horsepower, probably 500hp would be perfectly fine I'm sure! As my "perfect engine" (crooked supplier) actually had a cracked block, I had to rebuild it totally, and at the same time to try and aid strength and reliability, built it with forged pistons, rods, N1 bearings, ARP bolts, comp head gasket, ball bearing turbos (but still bottom mount), N1 oil pump, tomei restrictors, accusump,, oil cooler etc. The head however I just had it fully serviced, 3 valves replaced, decked etc, but didnt change the cam, springs, or guides (which I'm a bit worried about now). After all that, my question is - without monster power in mind, will I get around the 450-500rwhp with the standard cam and injectors (I have Apexi Djetro), or do I have to change them and if so, what cam and injectors would you suggest are the best value to do the job? thanks & regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Mike, you'll be able to hit 500 to the wheels with a completely stock head. 260ish cams just make it with less boost. The stock injectors aren't going to hang, though. 700cc injectors will get you there at about 75% duty. If the money's there, I'd go with Tomei 260 Poncams and a type "A" valve spring. This will make fat power between 4,000 and 8,000 and not put a lot of stress on the top-end. A lot of guys on this forum are getting in waaay over their head They just have no idea what 500 RB26 hp in an S30 is like, let alone 800. In my opinion, 500 is the perfect round # for power in an S30. It's absolutely brutal on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Thanks very much Matt, as usual you have good practical advice. With the injector upgrade I will need a different fuel rail I think - is that right? Any recommendations - Sard etc regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redrb26240z Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Matt, just a quick question, do you mean 500 hp at the flywheel or as measured on a chassis dyno at the wheels? By the way I think you are right about 500 RB26 hp in a S30, mine has that and traction is the biggest problem on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 500 to the wheels he says - see his post - yahoo! regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redrb26240z Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Hi Mike, the reason I question the power figures is that I don't know of many street driven (pump fuel) RB26 engines that make 800 hp atw. So I thought maybe he meant at the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPSNZ Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 A lot of guys on this forum are getting in waaay over their head They just have no idea what 500 RB26 hp in an S30 is like, let alone 800. In my opinion, 500 is the perfect round # for power in an S30. It's absolutely brutal on the street. I can vouch for that!!, we've just topped 1000whp in our RB30 240z (8.36 on the 1/4) and even at 750whp it was a real handfull on the street. 500whp is plenty for most people. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Hi Mike, the reason I question the power figures is that I don't know of many street driven (pump fuel) RB26 engines that make 800 hp atw.So I thought maybe he meant at the flywheel. Six of one, half a dozen of the other... At the 500hp mark you'll probably be too scared to notice the difference for quite some time. At the 800hp mark 110% of your focus will be on driving the car straight through fourth gear. Most likely, you won't be able to recall anything form the run other than blurred vision. In Japan 500hp in a GT-R won't get you a second look 750hp GT-R's aren't rare. I know of five RB26's within 30 miles of me that are making 1,000+ (four are street drivers). My car made over 800, but it's now getting parted Trans is still up for grabs, but it ain't cheap (almost new HKS Holinger 6sp dog with clutch and spare parts! Damper and oil cooler are on Ebay right now). Yea, that was a shameless plug... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DSelling&item=150318206109&viewitem= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I can vouch for that!!, we've just topped 1000whp in our RB30 240z (8.36 on the 1/4) and even at 750whp it was a real handfull on the street. 500whp is plenty for most people. Rob And that's coming from someone who has experience driving high HP cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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