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My 280zx has a "Knock"


ArchetypeDatsun

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Hi I Have A 81 280zx N/A 5 SPEED And Everytime I Go Turn In On Sometimes It Wont Start At The First Start Which Is Rare At Times But It Will Start Some What With A Weak Idle It Rpms Under 2000 Rpm And Usually Onces Its Warmed Up Its Fine At 2 Rpm nice and steady And If I Try To Step On It While Its Cold It Does Like A Skipping Sound like a nock i think thats how u say it, And It Has A Delay When I Step On It So It Wont Rev Up Right Away Almost A Couple Seconds Then It Will Rev Up But Once Warm Its Fine

 

Another Problem Too Is That When Sometimes Im Driving It and warming up, It Has A Popping Sound To It When I Put It In 1st And The Car Feels Like It Holds Back Then Al Of A Sudden It Will Be Fine But I Need To Find Out What The Heck That Popping Sound Is From The Engine, Does It Mean I Need A New Head Gasket?

 

I Barely Got A Tune Up And Oil Change Along With A Oil Filter I Also Put In A Cold Air Intake I Got From Ebay One Of Those Crome Pipes With The Filter Replacing That Big Ass Filter And Also Took Off A Few Pounds Also A New Stage 2 Spec Clutch Cuz The Old Clutch Gave Out The Barring Were Fried, Im Not To Sure What The Last Owner Did The Only Things He Did Do Was A Flowmaster Exhaust I Found Papers On The Check Ups And The Exhaust He Did But Its Like 4 Years Old Lol So I Dont Know

 

Also My Mechanic Told Me Its Gonna Need The Carbon Cleaned Out Of The Motor And The Injectors Cleaned So It Can Really Give Me The "full Potential" So I Aint That Great Of An Expert With Engines So Need The Help Thanx

 

Oh Sorry For All The Writing Guys

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You will probably need someone local to you to come out and give you a hand diagnosing and repairing this car for a the most part. 2000 RPM is way to high to idle at, even when cold. I would start by replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket and the vacuum lines and anything else rubber you find that looks dry. Big thing with these cars is electrical connections. CLEAN THEM REALLY REALLY GOOD. Get some electrical contact cleaner and a really small wire brush. I've gotten away with using a small pocket knife blade and scraping the connections clean. Most of the problems I was able to get out of that post can be related to vacuum leaks and dirty connections. Please, please, please, use punctuation in your posts. The harder it is to read the harder it will be to get help.

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Hey sorry guys i really wasn't paying any attention how i was writing at all. Thanks for the tips i will check out on that. Although the video i saw was not what my car sounds like its a different kind of sound, and its not that loud. The car does sound like it back fires somehow, I really need to figure out what it is. It don't seem to hurt the car too much when i am driving it. I also smell something funny almost smells like food lol, but i can also smell it within the car but not as much when i am outside.

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I noticed the L28 valve train is mildly loud. Also, like someone said before, vacuum and exhaust leaks can cause popping noises, and the car will run crappy.

 

If you're getting fresh air sucked into the 02' sensors, or air is bypassing any MAF sensors, the car will not run right.

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My car had similar problems when I first got it. The first stud (the one closest to the front) had broken off and the gasket had blown out, made a horrible popping sound. It also sounds like your timing might be off and it is backfiring. You need to check your timing, and replace every vacuum line you can find. Even a small vacuum leak can cause problems.

As for the food smell, coolant smells sweet, check the carpet on the passenger side floor, if it is damn and smells like coolant, your heater core is leaking.

Most of my cars problems were cured just by replacing the vacuum lines and fixing the gasket, but yours might have more miles on it, or may not have been as well maintained. Even a small vacuum leak can cause problems.

my car idles smooth at just under 800 rpm 2000 is way to high, and must be a lot of fun to drive.

my car is also a 79 5 speed.

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hrmm no periods, go to "carter" high school did we?

 

i have to say though 2000 rpm is half of what i get when cold. if i am lucky my car will idle at arround 1000 cold and drops to 750 warm. occasionally if i drive the piss out of it it'll go up a little but it eventually comes back down.

 

this is gonna sound odd because its a WHOLE different car but my 87 maxima did this hesitation thing, i changed O2 and CHTS (cylinder head temp sensor) and it went away.

as for the noise its a noisy engine, mine drives me nuts because i hear really well and i can hear the ticking from inside the car while i am driving.

 

as long as there arent any holes in the exaust and the intake/exhaust gasket is ok i wouldnt worry. also i have herd off and on some times the shorty tubes can cause interesting problems which requires adjustments to the AFM and other such things.

 

all in all it sounds like you need to tweak a few settings and check for vaccum leaks.

 

i bought mine from a crazy owner in grants pass and he was MR STP, additive everything, he even used waterpump lube and WAY too much of it. made the coolant look as if it had a blown headgasket, but it was just a buncha gunk. he had things all outa wack and it took some time to get it back to the way it shoulda been...still not all there though

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This might sound really retarded but my rpm gauge was way off for some reason and the car didn't have any big problems, but i didn't find that also my mph gauge needle broke when fixing the gauge.

 

My milage of my car does not go anywhere, so in that means no matter how much i drive it the milage don't change and with the needle broken i can't tell how fast I'm actually going but i can only judge the speed.

 

The engine was fine and like i said before my mechanic told me i would need to get the carbon cleaned out and get the injectors cleaned up as well, so the only thing i found wrong was an exhaust leak at last.

 

My engine idles fine at 800 rpm and once warm enough to drive it drives real good even better than when i bought it, but all i have to deal with is the exhaust leak, the injectors and cleaning the carbon out.

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Try running half of a can of seafoam into your intake via the brake booster line, and put the other half of the can into your oil. Add another whole can to a full take of gas.

Drive your car hard and then give it an oil change.

 

That should clean everything up a bit :)

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This might sound really retarded but my rpm gauge was way off for some reason and the car didn't have any big problems, but i didn't find that also my mph gauge needle broke when fixing the gauge.

 

My milage of my car does not go anywhere, so in that means no matter how much i drive it the milage don't change and with the needle broken i can't tell how fast I'm actually going but i can only judge the speed.

 

The engine was fine and like i said before my mechanic told me i would need to get the carbon cleaned out and get the injectors cleaned up as well, so the only thing i found wrong was an exhaust leak at last.

 

My engine idles fine at 800 rpm and once warm enough to drive it drives real good even better than when i bought it, but all i have to deal with is the exhaust leak, the injectors and cleaning the carbon out.

 

are your injectors bleeding horrbly from the body seems too?

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