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Cam Question


DuoWing

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Alright, I'm going to convert my Hydraulic Lifters to the solid ones. So I know I need to change the cam. I'm planning to just go ahead and toss a N/A cam in there as I hear an N/A works nicely. I've also read that the 260Z's E88 head cam is supposedly the hot cam to use, but does that require a spraybar? Valvetrain work is new to me, so I'm going to learn this as I go. So what are your guys suggestions? Otherwise I'll just go with an internally oiled cam. I know I remember seeing somewhere what heads were internally oiled and needed a spray bar, but I can't remember where I saw it.

 

Advice guys?

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The internally oiled camshaft was introduced in ’77, some reports have said it was actually at some point during the ’76 model year run?!?!?

 

At any rate, yes, the 260-Z cam will require a spray bar. Don’t be discouraged al is not lost. All you need is a set of cam towers from a '70-'76 L-6 and an L-6 spray bar from that same year spread. ALL L-series cam towers are swappable on ALL L-series heads. My preference when swapping cam towers from one head to another is to keep towers as a matched set and numbered 1-5 front to back and install them back in the same station they were removed.

 

If you are wanting to use the N/A cam for a Turbo application, the L-26 cam is not necessarily the hot ticket, but a more common earlier N/"A" cam is… wink.gif

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

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the extra duration of the C stamp cam is traded off for lower valve lift than the other cams, the A stamp cam has the higher valve lift, but 248* duration.

 

C stamp: 256* duration, but only 9.X mm valve lift

 

A stamp: 248* duration, but 10.5mm valve lift.

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Thanks for the info! To keep it simple and so I don't have to remove the cam towers I decided I'll go with an internally oiled cam.

 

I was originally planning to try and get a cam from a P90 for my conversion, but it was mentioned that using an N/A cam seems to do nicely when looking to go for more power. My setup isn't much right now, I'm slowly working it parts at a time. Anyway I figured what the heck, throw an N/A cam in as they're easier to come by and then have something that will be there to give a little bit better performance.

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Hi,

I have 2 early L24 cams, none have makings on the end of the cam, both are externally oiled (spray bar), the only ID on the cams are 'E30' cast on the cam about 1/3 from the front, would these be the 'A' type I need for my L24 N/A to turbo conversion ?

 

Note: since I live in Oz, I don't have ready access to L28 turbo cams.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=4777&d=1200379368

 

Nigel

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Based on a little "research" I have done recently, I am going to be running the 'A' cam on my turbo setup once it goes together this spring. I'm hoping to extend the powerband a little bit on the top end, and certainly will provide feedback to these forums once I have it together.

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I'm going with an internally oiled A cam. So I don't have to worry about swapping the cam towers. I mean as far as I can tell, unless the info is wrong that the 280Z had an internally oiled A cam. So this may be easier to use, my car for the most part is stock, although I'm running NIStune on an 86' Z31 setup, 10psi, etc. I'm going to get my Zeitronix hooked up eventually so I can do A/F logs and upgrade to the Mustang SVO injectors and a better pump.

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  • 7 months later...
Based on a little "research" I have done recently, I am going to be running the 'A' cam on my turbo setup once it goes together this spring. I'm hoping to extend the powerband a little bit on the top end, and certainly will provide feedback to these forums once I have it together.

 

Hey Drax, have you had a chance to find out if you like the "A" cam yet? since Im going with a new turbo here I found a "A" cam and will be putting it in as well. I hear its pretty good. Not huge gains but allows you to rev out and make a little more power up top where the turbo cam falls on its face.

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  • 3 weeks later...
If you are wanting to use the N/A cam for a Turbo application, the L-26 cam is not necessarily the hot ticket, but a more common earlier N/"A" cam is… wink.gif

 

When I done my head gasket on my engine over the weekend, I though I see what cam it had, to my surprise it had a 'A' cam in it, so if you live in Oz, it's from a MR30 L24e on a N47 head (small chamber)

 

Nigel

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I should be firing the engine up in the next 7 days or so... had some minor delays (baby, vacation, leaky headgasket...) next weekend is planned for Z though. Might be a little while before I can tell you for sure due to break-in time.

 

Good deal! Cant wait to see what you find out. I just installed my NA cam this past weekend.

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I just assembled my new MSA stage II turbo cam with Schneider valve springs this weekend and was surprised at how much more effort it took to rotate the cam. I remember a long time ago reading that high performance valve trains consume significantly more HP than stock, and I suspect that's indeed the case here. And before anyone replies - yes, the cam rotated freely before I installed the rockers.

 

I'm wondering if there's an additional benefit of using a stock cam in that you can use the stock springs which reduces the friction losses in the valve train.

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Good deal! Cant wait to see what you find out. I just installed my NA cam this past weekend.

 

 

Hey Wigen and Drax (when you get yours running),

 

I've got a couple of spare cams, one's an internally oiled 'A' cam and one's a 'C' cam. I was just wondering if you had verdict on the 'A' cam or had heard any more about the 'C' cam in a turbo motor.

 

Right now my motor should have the 'M' cam from a '83 L28ET with 5-spd. Here's my comparison, from mild to wild, though overlap obviously isn't the only thing to look at; degrees of overlap:

M - 22 deg

B - 26 deg

A - 22 deg

C - 38 deg

 

The 'A' cam ( and 'C' cam) has higher lift, this is supposed to be good for turbos.

M - 6.75/6.7

A - 7.35/7.35

C - 7.00/7.35

 

Found this thread, I'm sure this isn't the only example of high lift duration/overlap beating low lift/duration/overlap in a boosted car, but that doesn't mean it will always be better, or even most of the time. It does mean it's possible though:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1333221

Yea, I know it's a Honda. But it shows that even though there is more overlap, the longer duration and higher lift made up for it, and produced 15% more hp and 8% more tq with similar curves.

 

Exhaust psi vs intake psi plays a big role here, and I don't know if anyone has ever measured that on a stock L28ET. Or a modified one. I'm sure someone has, does anybody know of any data on that?

 

Here's an interesting post advocating low overlap:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=106178&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&sid=0450b8e12740e304cb7d856241ec6468

 

It would be interesting to see what the 'C' cam would do, but swapping cam towers and all that junk seems like too much trouble at the moment. From what I'm reading such a 'hot' N/A cam might do well in the top end of a turbo power band, but down low it's gonna hurt ya.

 

Sorry for rambling, good luck getting your car on the road, Drax.

 

-Brazle

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