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I'm buying the AZC big brake kits for the front and rears!


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Yup the rotors were assembled correctly. I put the front rotors and calipers on tonight. I have to hook up the brake lines yet but I'll do that later(there seized on right now so its going to take some special tools.....like a torch! LOL).

 

BEFORE....

n553205648_2137909_7395453.jpg

 

AFTER...

n553205648_2137910_1285168.jpg

 

Its hard to believe how small the fronts were!

 

Guy

Wow!!

 

That's like night and day...:icon44:

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I think the two kits combined will make for a very nice and even braking system. I would think that if your just running the front big brakes thats where you would run into a major balance issue. I bought the proportioning valve to just to make its the way I want it. The line lock will be for burn outs mostly!

 

I'll probably start on the rear kit this week. I won't do the proportioning valve and line lock until its warm out and I can drive it to work and put it on a hoist. Screw flaring lines on the ground on my back! LOL

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Yes, they are a nice setup. I got mine installed and got to drive it maybe twice...LOL before it went to get the floorboards replaced. That was in December. I should have it back this weekend. Good things come to those who wait. Same guy that has my car did a rear parking brake Willwood caliper and bracket on another customers car with AZC brakes. I saw the work and asked about the price. Hmmm $1200 bucks. I told him I would use a brick..LOL

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Yeah it would be nice if Dave came up with something like that guy from Australia came up with for a spot caliper for a parking brake! That would make this kit complete.

 

I took apart the right rear tonight. I have to drill and tap the control arm for the new mounting hardware and cut the old mounting points off. So far so good I guess. Once the caliper bracket is on it should be a piece of cake!

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They are sportmax 962's in silver. The fronts are 7.5"x18" and the rears are 9.5"x18". They no longer make them in the silver(atleast that I can find) but you can get them in GOLD and GUN METAL. I am running a 38mm spacer in front and a 20mm spacer in the rear. I bought them off of ebay last year. I have been trying to find another set of the 9.5" but no luck. I want another set to swap out so that when I take it to the drag strip I can have a set with good tires on it.

 

Thanks for the complement also!

 

Guy

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Ran into my first problem tonight trying to mount up the rear rotors and calipers. I drilled out the 4 bolt holes from the old backing plate and cut the ears off of control arm for the old caliper mounts. Then mounted up the new caliper bracket. I then slide the stub axle back in and test fitted the rotor....the rotor hits the caliper bracket once the stub axle is tightend down. I am going to give Dave a call tomorrow to see what's up? Maybe I'm missing something but it sure seems pretty straight forward? I tried flipping the hat on the rotor too. That gave me the clearance I needed but then the caliper was too far from the bracket. I stuck a thick washer between the rotor hat and the stub axle and I was able to mount up the calipers then but I obviously can't leave those washers in there!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok boys, I have everything installed.......line lock, proportioning valve, front and rear calipers with SS lines. I bled the brakes last night with a buddy and even after 2 attempts at that the pedal still felt soft till about 30% from the bottom. So today I went into work and used the pressure bleeder. I could only use the vaccum side of it so it actually wasn't pressure bled but the vaccum still pulled brake fluid from the resevoir. I thought for sure this would take care of the soft pedal/low pedal. It did not. I am going to try bleeding them again on monday at work with a helper the old fashion way but I am still wondering if there is something I am missing? Each caliper has 2 bleeder screws on top....does it matter which bleeder I open first and close last? I have rechecked for leaks too and there are none. It doesn't feel like there is a leak anyway, once the pedal is down near the bottom it gets sort of hard....

 

Guy

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This is from Dave's web page on the 4-Lug install instructions. However he does not say wich one to do first or wichever.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/frontz4luginstall.html

"both bleeders on each caliper need to be bled."

 

Also he notes:

"Pay attention that the bleeders point upward when the calipers are installed correctly"

 

But it sounds like you may have both those subjects taken care of already. Anyways, good luck.

 

Cheers

Ryan~

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This is from Dave's web page on the 4-Lug install instructions. However he does not say wich one to do first or wichever.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/frontz4luginstall.html

"both bleeders on each caliper need to be bled."

 

Also he notes:

"Pay attention that the bleeders point upward when the calipers are installed correctly"

 

But it sounds like you may have both those subjects taken care of already. Anyways, good luck.

 

Cheers

Ryan~

 

Bleed the outside first.

Did you remember the two bleeders at the master cylinder?

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Im thinking that the proportioning valve/line lock is where my issue is. Thats mounted where my parking brake lever was in the car. Its not as high as the master but its deffinetly higher than anything else in the braking system. I really need to figure out some way of using the pressure bleeder at work, I think that would take care of my issue no problem...

 

 

Guy

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It is your master. I am about 90% positive, since i just did this. I had my brake system apart for redoing the interior of my car, and I had problems bleeding. Then I remembered the master bleeders and everything went much smoother. Bleed the master then redo the rest with a mighty vac and you should be good.

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Well I went into work today and bled the whole system starting with the master with the pressure bleeder. I am please to report that my pedal is now at 100% working compacity! LOL Pedal feels great now and brakes are awesome! Pictures will be posted later!

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