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What is stronger CV's or U-Joints???


80LS1T

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What is stronger CV's or U-Joints??? I am putting in a LT1 and T56 and I want to change my R180 to a R200 LSD, but I was wondering if I can covert my U-Joints to CV if they are stronger? Is this possible? I have a 80'280ZX that I am doing this on. :confused::confused::confused:bonk.gif

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Guest super280z

u-joints. go for a r-200 with some good parts. the stockers arent worth a flip. also if you're doing a zx and an LT1, get ready to beat the heck out of the firewall and the tranny tunnel to make it fit ;D

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Guest greimann

So far I have broken two U-joints on my ZX, The stock one and the high strength Spicer replacement from Motorsport. Both times I was trying a 0-60 run launch. Rev to about 1800 and dump the clutch. Bam, whump, whump.

 

CV's might be the way to go, but you have to adapt the outer hub with Ross's adapters. You need to find an R200 that came with CV's because the stub axles have a different spline than the R200 u-joint models.

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/products/cvadaptor.htm

 

And if you put the motor in Scarab style, you don't need to beat up the firewall to make it fit.

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Guest greimann

Jason,

 

You have to check the splines on the diff side stub axle. Some have 25 splines, some have 27. I'm no expert on this, I just remember that the CV half shafts would not work for me unless I changed the pumpkin too, and I didn't want to go that route. What you got from me is a compatible set.

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ok.

 

So do i need the $150 adapters to use this CV setup or can I easily replace my outer flanges (wheel side) with flanges from a CV car? I just dont want to get it all out of there and on the ground only to realize that I dont have the right combo.

 

Jason

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Hrm, I've broken 2 Spicer HD units and at least one "stock" U-Joint. NONE of these were broken doing burnouts or anything nasty, just getting on it occasionally and normal driving - no kidding. I've YET to do a burnout in my car and am afraid to for fear of trashing ANOTHER U-Joint. The most I've gotten on a single U-joint so far is maybe 50 miles, less than 100 for sure. My suspension geometry is fine near as I can tell, the danged things just don't seem to be able to take any power on my car :(

 

I have a set of CVs and adapters ready to go in once I get off my LAZY butt and do it. GO CV. No reason to change pumpkin either but you will have to have the adapters from Ross...

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Guest greimann

Interesting to note this quote from Spicers web site about the application of their u-joints:

 

"yadda, yadda, yadda It's easy to identify this Spicer u-joint by its distinctive blue seals.

 

*Spicer Time-Tempered universal joint kits should NOT be used in high-performance vehicles, motorsport applications or vehicles frequently used in severe off-road conditions."

 

So what we thought was a high performance replacement is really just run-of-the-mill OEM.

 

After checking with my local drivetrtain supplier, that is the only replacement u-joint available for imports. The Spicer Lifetime, a really brute HD u-joint is not available for Datsuns.

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Black, Something has to going on with your rear set up to be going threw u joints like that. There

is to many fast cars that run the u joints without problem(noszcar and 1fastz). Both those

cars goes 9's and are not breaking the joints like you are????Is your diff mount fliped the right direction? When I first put mine in I noticed that the shafts had some angle on them. I then flipped the mount the other direction and

everything lined up perfect.

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I'll look at it but I'm pretty sure everything is level and kosher under there. I had all sorts of fun putting it in mind you so it's possible something is ass backwards. REALLY need to get those CVs on and drive the car dang it. It's not seen hardly any road time this summer and the gear oil leaking out hasn't helped. IF I can sell the RX7 this weekend I'll have more time and energy for it and will be planning my garage upgrade too smile.gif

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Some have 25 splines, some have 27. I'm no expert on this, I just remember that the CV half shafts would not work for me unless I changed the pumpkin too

Hmm, interesting as I've found all R200's to 1989 to take the same input stubs whether CV or UJ style shafts. I just swapped my companion flanges on my 280ZX from my NA units to Turbo units and then bolted on CV halfshafts (and popped out the UJ diff input stubs as CV has integral stub on diff side). I'm quite curious on which was the 'different' unit or units you came across? Perhaps an R180 diff/halfshaft setup from a 200sx or...???
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Guest greimann

The plot thickens. According to Mr. Oxandale's text on his site:

 

From the data found in a CV joint rebuild guide that I was able to look through, I found that all the '82-'83 280ZX Turbo's and some of the 2+2's use the same exact half shaft. These half shafts use a "tripode" design in the CV joints, meaning they have a 3 pronged (120 degree), needle bearing equipped joint. The axles themselves are 14-11/16" long, both left and right sides, and have 27 tooth splines at both ends. All other 280ZX's use the U-joint type of half shafts. The differential axle stub assembled as part of the shaft has 25 teeth in the splines that will fit into the R200 "Z" differential.

It sounds like we need to lay a bunch of parts out on a table and count splines.

 

I will remove one of my half shafts from my '79 R200, 3.7:1 and count diff side splines.

 

Jason, can you count the diff side splines on one of the half shafts that I gave you and report back?

Anyone else want to count splines?

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The plot thickens.

Hmmm, I was quite certain we only did the comp. flanges.......but I do now recall having a bearing mixup and taking an extra day as the correct bearings came in (wrong one originally sent in right box, argg) so maybe I did change the stubaxles(it was a few years ago!) ? Hmmphf! I KNOW 1000% I didn't change my control arms.....not saying all 280ZX control arms are the same but I was able to install the CV's without changing my control arms.

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CV joints are not stronger than U-joints. CV joints take less power to turn and work better at more extreme angles.

 

In most Z applications (including V8 conversions) the strength of CVs are more than enough. When you get into the higher torque applications then the additional strength of U-joints might be of some value.

 

But, I'm not talking about the 240 halfshafts. Those can have problems with 400+ ft. lbs of torque. If you're doing a high horsepower Z then you should probably have custom halfshafts built. Try Unitrax or McKenzies. Both can build CV or U-Joint based halfshafts.

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