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240z8's '71 240z Chevy V8 Project


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One of my dad's friends told him about this Z and we did some calling around and found the owner. The other project (the '73) is being put on hold because this one is gonna be easier to get working.

 

Here is the link to the '73:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143999

 

And the other Z is just, well, the other Z: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143300

 

This Z has a much better body that the other 2 Zs at my house. There are some itty-bitty little holes in the floors. The driver side door has a huge dent in it and the front end of the driver side quarter panel has some rust and needs to be replaced. The car was made in July of '70. The vin is 6849.

 

Here are some pics of the car. =]

 

 

The quarter panel:

 

DSCF2425.jpg

 

Here is a side shot, you cant see the dent very well, but if you follow the surface rust, that is the top of the dent, and the darker looking spot is the dent.:

 

DSCF2426.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the battery tray, the only visible rust is where the battery was sitting:

DSCF2432.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the rear of the car:

 

 

DSCF24282.jpg

 

 

The wheel well has no rust:

 

DSCF2435.jpg

 

 

The rust in the driver floor. Only a small rust patch around one of the plugs.

 

DSCF2437.jpg

 

 

The passenger rust spots:

 

DSCF2438.jpg

 

There is some flaky looking rust by the front plug:

 

DSCF2440.jpg

 

 

A side shot:

 

DSCF2451.jpg

 

 

Another Pic:

 

DSCF2452.jpg

 

 

Front shot:

 

DSCF2453.jpg

 

 

Also, the car has these funny looking splits in the corners of the roof:

 

DSCF2461.jpg

 

 

There is surface rust on most edges, but the car looks good otherwise.

 

I was confused when I saw lots of holes where tool compartments should have been, but then I remembered that older Zs are different. :)

 

DSCF24362.jpg

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I'm curious about the vin number. oh wait its 6849. Still it has the early hatch vents and the 240z badge on the quarter panel. definitely a series I. Everything looks original as well. I'd scoop that up in a heart beat i dont care if the whole roof was made of bondo.

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Hey Justin, That's a great find! How much do they want for it? I would love to find a series 1 like that. It doesn't look like it needs too much (figuratively speaking) work to get it going. Those Rust holes do not bode very well, in that you know there's gotta be some more hidden rust underneath most likely, and also, how are the frame rails? The Rear wheel arches can be replaced with Tabco parts, and that crack by the roof could be rust in the A pillar. It really looks good for it's almost 40 years of age, so if the price is right, then buy it. Either that or let me know and I'll come get it :wink: Too bad you didn't find it before you bought the other two, but that's learning... the other ones you can work on, this one you can restore to drivable, then you'll have something to run to the autoparts store in. Just remember, you're running down a long road having multiple Z's to fix up It's hard enough conscientrating on one Z, much less 2. I know a guy in Espanola and some others here in ABQ that might have parts for you cheap, like that door, and center console.. I totally want a series 1 vented hatch.

 

The Brown interior is really cool, but it might be hard to match vinyl. you might call MSA, black dragon, or Datsun restore and see if they have that "spice" kind of color for 240z's. Again, nice find, hope the price is cheap...

 

Phar

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actually, looking at the interior closer you might just consider swapping it to black.. lotta missing/damaged pieces. Ebay is also your friend. Needs tail lenses too. So what about the engine, I didn't see any engine picts...

 

Phar,

 

Sorry for 2x post.

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Here is a pic of the engine:

 

DSCF2431.jpg

 

I don't know much about the engine, I didn't actually talk to the man selling it. I think my dad said something about it being from a '72 and it didn't run. I think my dad will probably know more about it right now than I do, since he talked the the guy.

 

The car is $400. I looked under the car and the framerails looked fine, they weren't rusted through or warped. The car is in a much better condition than I had hoped, I was expecting huge holes in the floors like the other 2, but it only had the small amount. =]

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wow, cool, very nice! If you don't keep the engine in there, then try to keep it together as possible. it's good it's still got the air cleaner, and the SU carbs are good :)

 

Pretty nice!

 

Phar

 

if I can talk you out of the hatch.? hehe

 

The guy who owns it said that the motor does run. Just needs a little TLC. It is a '72 engine and trans though. We are going to try to get it going and tuned. Once this is done, sell the engine tranny combo to help finance other stuff for the car. Anyone have a BALLPARK $$$ of what the engine tranny might be worth? Maybe even the bumpers will go to someone. This is a budget project. The blue '73 that we have is now mine. It will still be getting a SBC once Justins car is done. It will be the 240Z8 Rat Rod of Portales, NM. The original 280z that we have will be getting parted out. The whole rear of car, ie... tail panel and upper rear quarters are good, no rust. Perfect for someone whos z got hit in the rear. Rockers look to be good. There are pictures of it in the original post of justins. Maybe you all could look at them and let me know what to maybe cut off and be ready to sell to who might need it. We are most likely going to start a thread just on the 280z for those who want what thread. Pics will be added of parts for sale or what you all ask to look at.

 

No on the hatch!! lol

 

Phar,

 

Sent you an email!

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what? you weren't saying you were going to sell the 240z bumpers? I'd be interrested if you were.. but there are for sale areas on here...

 

as for the engine, well there's a few out there, but a lot depends on condition and completeness so try to keep it together if you try to sell it. I don't know much about the value on the older engines tho. there is Ebay and the classifieds, look on there and average the prices...

 

oh darn on the hatch, hehe I was kidding anyway. I think there's a guy here in ABQ that has one..

 

Phar

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, we finally got the car to the house. I did a fast wash on most of the car and found out that I need to tighten the hatch water catching thing so it will stop leaking into the wheel well, I need a new windshield weatherstrip, but I'll probably need an entire kit for the weatherstrips.

 

Here are some pics of the car when we got it to the house:

 

 

All 3 Z's:

 

DSCF2241.jpg

 

Front shot after a quick wash:

 

DSCF2242.jpg

 

 

3/4 shot:

 

DSCF2244.jpg

 

 

Battery tray after washing and drying. Its rusty but not rusted through, I bet a good sandblasting will clear that right up:

 

DSCF2253.jpg

 

 

We hooked up the suburban to the battery and got the car to turn over, so we went and got a new battery, some engine starting fluid to help start it, some brake fluid so the brakes would work, but the car wouldn't turn over after. The starter clicks but nothing else happens. What could be wrong?

 

Also, what is the best weatherstripping kit? One that isn't too thick so my doors will close normal.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Justin

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The clicking sound is the solenoid. it usually clicks like that if the battery isn't fully charged. if it turned over fine with the other battery, I am sure it'll turn over once you get that battery charged. they usually sell batteries with a low charge.

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Normally with the solenoid, doesn't it continue to click? Our problem is that it clicks once and stops. The solenoid is engaging but the engine isn't turning over. Do we have a bad starter or what?

 

 

Also, what size bolt/nut is on the crank pulley? We are trying to manually turn the engine over so see if the engine is seized or not. The largest I could find in my toolbox was a 21mm, and it was too small.

 

Justin

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Normally with the solenoid, doesn't it continue to click? Our problem is that it clicks once and stops. The solenoid is engaging but the engine isn't turning over. Do we have a bad starter or what?

 

 

Also, what size bolt/nut is on the crank pulley? We are trying to manually turn the engine over so see if the engine is seized or not. The largest I could find in my toolbox was a 21mm, and it was too small.

 

Justin

Where is the sound coming from? If it's anything like the problem my parent's 280Z had, and it sounds just like it, your ignition switch is bad. Pretty easy to fix.
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yep, you're right. If it isn't clicking continuously, that may not be the problem. You said you got it to turn over with the suburban battery, so I would try that again. just hook up some jumper cables and see if it turns over. If that doesn't work, try bypassing the solenoid. take the wire from the starter motor(connected to solenoid) and hook that directly to the battery. That's what people do when they hotwire a car, it will also bypass the ignition switch. Be careful not to shock yourself though, it will arc. if it still doesn't turn over, the starter is bad. if it does, the solenoid is the most likely problem. If the solenoid clicks when you turn it to start, the ignition switch is working. I would also inspect the power wire to the starter, if it looks badly worn, or is missing insulation, it may be shorting out. That would also cause your problem. Also, if you don't have the socket to turn over the engine, you can put the car in gear and push it (try in second or third gear). hope that helps. nice z by the way, looks like a great car to start with, you'll love fixing it up, and it's a great way to spend time with your dad. I also got my first car (69 Mach 1) when I was 14 to fix up with my dad. We still work on it together to this day (I am 22 now). good luck, and keep us posted on how it works out, it should be a simple fix. The best way to tackle any of the electrical problems in these old cars is to bypass/check one component at a time until you find the problem.

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Remove all your wires from the starter and clean the contacts good with some emory tape/sand paper. I have had simillar problems and cleaning the contacts has always been my issue. Besides, it doesn't take much of your time to do even if it isn't the problem.

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Normally with the solenoid, doesn't it continue to click? Our problem is that it clicks once and stops. The solenoid is engaging but the engine isn't turning over.

 

Actually what happens is, Turn the key, starter goes klunk, it is kicking out the starter gear. The engine does not move. When we used the battery from my suburban the Z engine didn't really turn over, it just moved about a half turn or so then stopped. With the new battery just the klunk. I am thinking either the engine is siezed or there is a bad spot on the strarter gear or the flywheel. We will try the push in gear after my son gets home from school today. That will tell us if the gears are bad on starter or flywheel I guess.

 

We wont be spending much time on this because the engine and tranny will be getting pulled for the SBC/700r4 swap.

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Actually what happens is, Turn the key, starter goes klunk, it is kicking out the starter gear. The engine does not move. When we used the battery from my suburban the Z engine didn't really turn over, it just moved about a half turn or so then stopped. With the new battery just the klunk. I am thinking either the engine is siezed or there is a bad spot on the strarter gear or the flywheel. We will try the push in gear after my son gets home from school today. That will tell us if the gears are bad on starter or flywheel I guess.

 

We wont be spending much time on this because the engine and tranny will be getting pulled for the SBC/700r4 swap.

 

Well, you have a new starter there in that 280Z. it might even be a Gear reduction starter. it should fit in the 240 just fine, and it's an easy swap, 2 big bolts and the solenoid connectors.

 

It's possible the engine may be seized, and that would be unfortunate, but since you're replacing it anyway... It would be nice to have it working till you got to that point tho... Oh and for the brakes, you might read the stickies on here about the Reaction Disks. It's super common.

 

I got your Email, I'm working on getting more members before doing anything else w/ that website, I was thinking I might be able to get the Albuquerque Club to Help, by renaming, and then expanding again to all of NM. That way I wouldn't have to work so hard for members, and they really really need a better webpage, so it's a 2 birds 1 stone thing...

 

I think the bolt on the front is a 24MM if I remember correctly. but actually, pushing it backward in reverse, then popping the clutch should be plenty to turn it over. forward in 1st is just as good, both are low gears, reverse being lowest of course. if it's siezed you might be able to spray a bunch of WD40 in the cylinders and let it sit overnight, then try cranking it again.

 

it's amazing how much just a little washing does to clean it up.

 

I found a company here in abq that does media blasting, n they said they'd take the whole car to bare metal guaranteed no rust/paint for $1400. I know it's not cheap, but on a rotisserie that included the tar gunk undercoating removal. I'd have to remove things like the windows and dash, tailights etc, but I'm really considering it. as compared to my doing the work w/ the sander... dunno tho, it's a lot of $ and my labor is free... hmm...

 

Phar

Edited by Pharaohabq
spelling dammit...
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