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240z8's '71 240z Chevy V8 Project


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We tried to put the car in gear while it was moving, and without the clutch it wouldn't shift. We followed the lines from the clutch to a fill up spot underneath the driver side inspection lid next to the brake booster. It is bone dry.

 

What type of fluid goes in there? Does it use brake fluid or something else?

 

 

 

Thanks, Justin

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you'll have to put it in gear at a stop, and then start to push it, it won't shift if the wheels/transmission are turning and the engine is not. Higher gears are easier, because for every turn of the wheel, the engine will turn less giving you more leverage on the engine. another thing you can try since you don't have the right socket, is to pull all of the spark plugs and try to turn the main pulley by hand. removing the plugs will give the engine 0 compression, and if the car is in neutral, you should be able to turn it over(may be difficult, but it should go). I would start by pulling the starter and inspecting it, 2 bolts and a few minutes should be able to tell you if it's fouled up or not.

 

clutches are designed so that if you run out of fluid, they fail disconnected so you simply come to a stop. if it's engaging, that means either it still has enough in the lines, or something's siezed up. Clutch systems use brake fluid, so if you have some, go ahead and fill it up. I would bleed the whole system though.

 

If you are planning to do a swap, I wouldn't spend much money trying to get the motor running. these engines don't go for much, there are multiple on craigslist near me, newly rebuilt and running engines seem to go for $500, used ones that don't run are worth maybe $100. tranny's are cheap especially if it's a 4spd.

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Have you guys tried cleaning the connections and tightening the battery cables. This has happened to me multiple times in different cars. All I did was clean the battery cable connections and tighten them the the battery snugly. Good luck!

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Any luck?

 

justin? luck? haha j/k, i told him push start it with the suburban, just dont ram them into each other, put it in first, push it down knoxville, if it turns over and fires good job, haha, but yea, i dont think his dad really wants to do that, it is alot more dangerous than the rest, but ive been around open wheel racing all my life

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justin? luck? haha j/k, i told him push start it with the suburban, just dont ram them into each other, put it in first, push it down knoxville, if it turns over and fires good job, haha, but yea, i dont think his dad really wants to do that, it is alot more dangerous than the rest, but ive been around open wheel racing all my life

 

 

Well I see we have the comedian back! I do realize that you have that WEALTH of information from the 16 years of your life and 1 year of driving but here is the real story.

 

1. Danger has nothing to do with it.

 

2. The Suburbans front bumper does not align up with the 240Z rear bumper. Body damage WILL occure.

 

:icon15:BTW Kinser, please if you don't have anything constructive to say or are just thinking you are being funny, don't post.:icon15:

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First off, NICE find. I would examine the spot above the rear wuarter panel window where these cars like to rust through fairly well, too; I couldn't get a good look in your pics, but some of the first "Look at this car" shots showed a worrisome dark spot in the typical rust spot there..

 

Regarding the starter, I would try hooking it up to the Suburban with good, HEAVY jumper cables. Turn the key to on, turn onthe headlights, and hit the horn. If both of those work simultaneously and the horn doesnt sound like a dying cow, then you are getting enough amperage through the cables from the 'Burban to bump the starter well.

 

Now that you have ensured good enough juice, leave the key on (go ahead and turn off the lights and stop honking) and try to bridge the gap between the main positive cable connection on the starter motor, and the little terminal tab for the solenoid wire. Screwdriver on nut holding battery cable, then touch it to solenoid terminal. That will bypass the ignition switch as mentioned above, and jam your starter motor on. If it still doesn't work, then its time to get inquisitive. Get a 1/2 inch breaker bar, the right socket, and fit it onto the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn the motor by hand. Try pulling the spark plugs if it is a little difficult.if its REAL difficult, just pull the valve cover right off and look at what the head looks like.

 

Good luck with this one, 70s are sweet, sweet little cars.

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By now you could have done the WD-40 trick. Pulling the plugs, and spraying a bunch of WD-40 into the cylinders. Over this much time, it would have soaked in and it things were locked up due to rust or corrosion, they would at least be looser. the breaker bar idea Daeron was saying would be a lot easier had the engine soaked for a couple days. though you should be able to turn it... Also, if you jump the starter like he said, make sure it's out of gear, and the key is on. hopefully it would start. or at least turn over. If not, you can pull the starter from the 280z and put it in, they both fit. that would tell you for certain if it's the starter or what... I understand not wanting to put $$$ into an engine you're going to just swap. (I haven't touched mine since I started getting parts for the HR... )

 

...

What type of fluid goes in there? Does it use brake fluid or something else?

 

Oh and yes, any Dot3 brake fluid will work. do NOT use Power steering fluid...

 

Phar

Edited by Pharaohabq
dot3
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Come to think of it, pulling the spark plugs out is another thing you can do to make the load of rotating the engine easier.

 

Just to make sure I am clear on something; when the transmission is in neutral, the car is in neutral right? you can roll it around all day, but when you shift into gear at a stop you are in that gear regardless of clutch pedal position. Just trying to make 100% sure that the "transmission is locked up" diagnosis gets ruled out (unless it has already and I've forgotten)

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  • 4 weeks later...

yeah, I'd been wondering too, Hadn't heard anything new in a month either. There's nothing new on their site either. though they might just be working on the cars rather than playing on the computer. They could be on vacation too... I'm sure they wouldn't just drop the projects. Justin's going to need something to drive through the rest of high school.

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  • 3 months later...

:mrgreen::mrgreen:Ok, time for an update!!!!:mrgreen::mrgreen:

 

Part 1:

 

We purchaced rear IMSA quarters from Z Car Customs: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd1751866/IMSA__REAR_FENDER_FLARES_

 

Talked with them today. They were getting shipped as we spoke on the phone. We will start installing next week hopefully. Pics to come.

 

Part 2:

 

I just won an auction on ebay tonight a JTR Datsun 240Z V8 Mounting Kit, $152.50 instead of $315 new from JTR. I guess good things come to the ones who wait for a good deal on ebay! This is a brand new never used conversion kit that was purchased and never got the chance to use. Seller misplaced the speedometer cable but is still looking for it. Other than that the kit is complete. Also included in this kit is a custom Radiator Mount and GMC drive shaft adaptor.

 

Ok, thats it for now. Will update soon.

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We did a quick mock up today with the wide body, and it looks like its gonna come out looking great after some work, here are some pics:

 

This one looks weird because the tape didn't want to hold up the quarter on the driver's side:

 

DSCF2609.jpg

 

Driver's Side:

 

DSCF2610.jpg

 

Passenger Side:

 

DSCF2611.jpg

 

Driver's Side from the front:

 

DSCF2616.jpg

 

Passenger Side from the front:

 

DSCF2617.jpg

 

From the roof:

 

DSCF2618.jpg

 

Passenger side from the roof:

 

DSCF2621.jpg

 

Driver's Side from the roof:

 

DSCF2622.jpg

 

That's it for now, more updates to come!!! :mrgreen:

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:-( your gonna have to find perfect wheels to fill those honkin wide bodies out! Take your time and do it right, should turn out great. I got my first Z last spring, at the age of 16. I was so happy to find mine, lol sorry to thread jack, keep us updated! :rockon:

 

As for wheels we should be going with: http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/drwcustom.html :mrgreen:

 

These custom made wheels are DOT approved. We should be going with 16x12 in the rear and 16x10 up front. Wheels are around $200 each. We keep the 4 lug pattern. Of course the final wheels might be a little different sizes once we figure out the backspacing needed and how deep of a dish we want. These will be either black or silver powder coated.

 

We love these wheels BUT $2600 at my door plus tires. OUCH :eek:

 

http://www.usacomp.com/Modular.htm

 

Once the rears are on we will get the front fenders.

 

Just love www.zccjdm.com for the rears. If anyone is planning to do this, go to them! Fast, Great Quality and Friendly!!

 

BTW, out v8 swap install kit we won from ebay shows up Tuesday! YAAAAAAAAAA1

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Nice, I made it to an invite only Auto-X in my E-stock 78 280z that is bone stock down to the bushings and has 20 year old maxxis tires on it, and the auto-x is on an airforce base next weekend so I'll be skipping homecoming to go to that.. Im ordering http://www.bassettwheel.com/ the 4 lug 15x8 and 15x10 with hoosier A6 245/50/R15. $900 Tires > $320 Racing wheels... haha and those are just the track wheels, for street wheels im ordering

centerline 17x8 venturas $1300 and Toyo Proxes 235/40/17 $500....

 

what kind of racing are you going to be doing on your car?

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