Repairable Body Damage?

[Jehannum]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday morning, I was in with my study group at UNM, parked out on the street. I was going to take it over and get it detailed for the car show this Sunday (May 17th), but a Mr. Steele decided that he would take that day to drive while high on pain medications (apparently Mr. Steele is a burn victim, with significantly impaired mobility due to his injuries).

 

He took the mirror off of an F-150 two cars back from me, plowed full on into the station wagon behind me (which belonged to my friend Nate, who was up in group with me), and pushed Nate's 240 Volvo wagon up into the back of my car, and my car up into the Subaru station wagon ahead of the both of us. Where originally, there were three cars, taking three parking spaces, there were now three cars taking two parking spaces.

 

I came out of my study session feeling pretty good about the whole thing, until I saw the cars.

 

I am so *not* looking forward to State Farm trying to low-ball me on the car. I know my insurance will cover what they don't, but it's a headache that I know is inevitable.

 

The car is still straight - it drives straight, and the only bends in the front look like they're ahead of the radiator support.

 

So, what am I looking at here? New shell time, or can this one be saved?

[datsun79z]

Jehannum;

 

I'm so sorry for your loss. I've been through a similar situation with a ZX. From what I can see, the sheet metal can be repaired or replaced. The area you should pay close attention too are both frame rails and the TC rods. You should be concerned with how true they are. My knowledge is limited in this area. However I sure other members will gladly help you out with this information. Keep us up to date on your progress and your dealings with the insurance companies.

 

Mike Hintz

[Xnke]

I have saved my car from exactly the same damage, and it was not hard at all, as far as the work. tedious, time consuming, but not at all difficult. Unfortunately, it's been two years and I still haven't gotten around to re-doing the crappy work on the roll pan that the PO's bodyshop did, but I have fixed the front end.

 

Basically, you're looking at a 250$ rear panel from MSA, new front and rear bumpers, and a good bodyman can fix those front fenders and the hood, although I'd go with a new hood too, If you are getting it all paid for...

 

The bent-up front is how my car came, and the best way to fix that is with a BFH. If the bumper mounts are flexed down, bolt a bar to the mounting points and have a buddy lift the bar like a lever while you carefully apply the BFH. Use the weight of the hammer, not superman style swings of it.

 

Also, I'd take this as an excuse to get an air dam for the front, because those lower valance parts are never gonna be the same. Although, if you need them, I have the two corner pieces, not perfect but certainly usable. I don't have the center part, however. That said, i'd still go with the airdam.

[FlatBlack]

That's awful.

 

If you like the looks of it, you could do a 'custom' rear piece, and run a shaved rear without a bumper. It's obvious from the photos the rear bumper didn't help much anyways :/

 

I would check and see if the frame rails were twisted at all in the front. Other than that the car doesn't look unrepairable.

 

Good luck!

[Montezuma]

Fixable yes. Mr Steele's insurance company is responsible for this repair.

[palosfv3]

Your going to run into a repair cost exceeding the value of the car with SF. Proper repairs will get above the $8500.00 , in a heartbeat, at qualified repair shop. The CSR will look the low ball ADP or CCC value report and tell you its a total . Stand your ground . They will pay for proper repairs and the related costs. You may have to get a supervisor and some one over at SF that understands old cars and restoration repair involved before things seem to straighten out. Remember this line . " Where is the car just like mine . that can be bought for your suggested amount of money ? " They will not be able to produce one.

 

You have an extremely nice original car. Repairing it correctly means finding the right repair shop. One that understands whats needed , where to find the NOS parts and does the repair correctly.

 

SF must clear its insureds liability to you. They must make you whole. That means you suffer no loss or gain in the incident, in the strictest sense of the word. If you need an explination of this give me a call . Number is in the link .Theres just too much to write down about how all this should work.

[Jesse OBrien]

Your going to run into a repair cost exceeding the value of the car with SF. Proper repairs will get above the $8500.00 , in a heartbeat, at qualified repair shop. The CSR will look the low ball ADP or CCC value report and tell you its a total . Stand your ground . They will pay for proper repairs and the related costs. You may have to get a supervisor and some one over at SF that understands old cars and restoration repair involved before things seem to straighten out. Remember this line . " Where is the car just like mine . that can be bought for your suggested amount of money ? " They will not be able to produce one.

 

You have an extremely nice original car. Repairing it correctly means finding the right repair shop. One that understands whats needed , where to find the NOS parts and does the repair correctly.

 

SF must clear its insureds liability to you. They must make you whole. That means you suffer no loss or gain in the incident, in the strictest sense of the word. If you need an explination of this give me a call . Number is in the link .Theres just too much to write down about how all this should work.

 

You've just become another reason for me to come back to HBZ regularly. I wish I could offer more advice, but at least know that I feel for you. Everything looks fixable (that rear undertray area will be very difficult though, and make sure your fuel tank and fuel lines were not damaged) and the car looks like it completely deserves a full restoration. Make sure you get lots of pictures, including the underside. If rust develops or minor bends turn into stress fractures, the insurance company is well within their rights to point out that it could have been there before the accident and is therefore not their fault. If you can prove that there was minimal/no damage due to neglect prior to the accident, you'll come out of this a lot more satisfied.

[Montezuma]

I think that this an a great example of why it is good to have Classic Car insurance from a place like Hargerty. I have value claim type policy on my S30s. Sometimes we don't realize that our cars our classics. I hope you get that car fixed and I hope you don't have to spend a dime of your own money.

[Jehannum]

Your going to run into a repair cost exceeding the value of the car with SF. Proper repairs will get above the $8500.00 , in a heartbeat, at qualified repair shop. The CSR will look the low ball ADP or CCC value report and tell you its a total . Stand your ground . They will pay for proper repairs and the related costs. You may have to get a supervisor and some one over at SF that understands old cars and restoration repair involved before things seem to straighten out. Remember this line . " Where is the car just like mine . that can be bought for your suggested amount of money ? " They will not be able to produce one.

 

You have an extremely nice original car. Repairing it correctly means finding the right repair shop. One that understands whats needed , where to find the NOS parts and does the repair correctly.

 

SF must clear its insureds liability to you. They must make you whole. That means you suffer no loss or gain in the incident, in the strictest sense of the word. If you need an explination of this give me a call . Number is in the link .Theres just too much to write down about how all this should work.

This is exactly the advice I need. Thank you!

 

Along those lines, I printed up the ads for 240Zs from autotrader classic, as well as the NADA classic value (I firmly believe that I'm somewhere between "average" and "high" in the terms they describe the cars - "average" is a 20 footer, and mine was easily a 10 footer). I'm also bringing to the table the receipts for ~$1200 I spent in March on a new suspension. Are there any other resources I can bring to the table, other than hiring a lawyer?

 

Do you (or anyone) have any suggestions for a repair shop in Albuquerque? I was kind of leaning towards a local hotrod shop called Loid's Rides, as they have experience actually shaping and repairing metal, as opposed to just cutting and welding new panels in. My other sort of "tier 1" choices are Crown Coachworks and Bodyworks by R&C.

[Jehannum]

I think that this an a great example of why it is good to have Classic Car insurance from a place like Hargerty. I have value claim type policy on my S30s. Sometimes we don't realize that our cars our classics. I hope you get that car fixed and I hope you don't have to spend a dime of your own money.

I would love to have Hagerty, but I have no garage, so it's a no-go for me.

[GeeZ]

Remember and emphasize that it is a classic car and not a daily driver. State Farm will try to total it. Don't give those bast...s an inch. Get a lawyer if you must. Insist on using a classic car estimators and not the usual State Farm people. Don't know how old you are, but an older person on site when discussing the cost is helpful. To State Farm, it is just an old car.

[Jehannum]

The estimator came this morning, and informed me that State Farm has a policy of only using OEM replacement parts. That's just ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ great - where am I going to find a stash of OEM body panels for a 240Z?

[eurokevin]

im not sure if all your body panels are available through msa and such. but as long as a company is out there manufacturing oe "LIKE" parts, they'll use those. my 70 camaro got crunched in the front right fender and no, g.m. isnt making those panels anymore lol.

 

i have state farm, they wont total the car. my mom's 2000 325ci bmw was worth about 19,000. rear-ended and hit the guy in front of her. more than 11,000 in damage. she has it back now lol. cheer up man, it'll work out for the better in the end.

 

btw, on another note. you need a garage and i think 25 to qualify for hagertys ins. i looked it up for the camaro when i had it. made me sad:(

[Pharaohabq]

Hey it was good to meet you last night. I was waiting for you to post this thread. Yeah I too believe you can get it repaired. you mentioned Crown Coachworks. I definitely highly recommend them, Eric the owner there is now in their west side location. When my Z32 got backed into last summer they fixed it up all spiffy. He'll work with you too, as much as you need. I think the guy who's running the Montanio shop is Redd, or something like that, decent guy too, but haven't delt with him, I know both shops do an awesome job and don't cut corners.

 

Eric at Crown fixed my wife's Eclipse and 6 years later the clear they used started chipping, so he re-did the whole car for free. so They definitely stand behind their work. He's not afraid of classic cars either. They had a 66 stingray in there when they were working on my car. I'd suggest you at least talk to him. I know they're not the cheapest repair place tho.

 

They're probably going to be the ones to pain my 280Z when the time comes.

 

I hope you can get it fixed 100%, I can tell it was an amazing car before if was hit. I wish I'd seen it prior. Too bad your Z32 is still apart too.

 

So yeah, there will be a lot of hassle with the insurance, but you said you had Stated Value insurance on it, that much at least is still better than regular ins. hopefully Mr. Steele's ins will step up. Let us know how it turns out. Sounds like Nelson might have all the parts you might need, and let me know if I can help.

 

Phar (Eric)

[Jehannum]

Thanks, Eric.

 

I've put it out of my mind until Monday. I've got an appraiser coming out (on my dime) to put a dollar sign on the car, and then I'll be in a better position to tell State Farm what I want to do with it.

 

I took the car over to Crown and Loid's today (just had to take the lower valance off, and it drives straight, no tire rubbing.

 

This weekend, I'm going to finish getting my Z32's engine torn down so it can go to machine shop jail on Monday afternoon.

[Pharaohabq]

Cool, so I guess Crown, and loid's will get back to you this week about fixing it? I imagine you probably took your Z to the Montanio Crown Coachworks location. Red should be able to fix you up. I just hope the insurance doesn't fight you too badly. Getting your own appraisal is your right, and if the insurance accepts and uses that appraisal, then you can ask them to pay for it, or at least count it tward your deductible. It's be interresting to hear what they say as to the estimate. Not to mention their stance on OEM parts vs repair of original.. You can use junkyard parts reconditioned thich is likely what you'll end up with, but SF will probably make you sign something to acknowledge that fact. Once that's done, you can help to locate parts (via Nelson or wherever, ebay etc) and the ins will buy them. maybe Nelson would even make you a deal

 

That's kinda what we did with my 2+2 door. The dealer had a door, but it would take min 2-6 weeks to arrive and 899.00, so I looked around, nothing locally for a 2+2, so I looked and found one on Ebay, for $350, even the right arctic white. Had it shipped here, but stupid fed-ex dropped it. Farmers still paid for the door, and for the drop damage from fedex, and they took care of the claim w/ fedex. and Crown did all the work. No bondo either. they did an awesome job, you would never know the right door isn't the original (now the glass yeah, that got broke and is temporarilly replaced with the wrong color until I get off my butt and install the new window. again, Ebay, cheap part OEM removal.

 

Eric

[Jehannum]

Just a few minutes ago, I got off the phone with State Farm, they've come to the conclusion that my car is worth $15,150 (split the difference between the "average" ($10.8k) and "high" ($19k) values at NADA), which is almost right where I figured it on my own.

 

By state law in New Mexico, for a car to be declared a total loss, the cost to repair must exceed the worth of the vehicle less its value as salvage ($2100), so anything north of $13,050 is going to be "total" area.

 

To that end, I've got 4 options:

1) settle for their original estimate ($7500)

2) have a new estimate drafted to include aftermarket parts

3) settle for a total loss (they keep the car) for $15,647.92 to me

4) settle for a total loss (I keep the car) for $13,547.92 to me

 

I won't do 3 (I want to keep the car), and 4 looks problematic for obtaining insurance afterward, so I've given them permission to redo the estimate using aftermarket parts, and sent them the estimates I got last week (between $8 and $10k). Hell, I'm going to take it to one of the two places that I got estimates from anyhow, so I'm not sure what the back-and-forth will be for anyhow.

 

Things are looking up on that front, at least.

[Pharaohabq]

Hey I'm glad they're going to take care of you. Totalling it and buying is back would give you a salvage title. I think you're doing the right thing, getting new estimates. Crown should take good care of you, but it"s really up to you who you take it to to have it fixed..

 

it would be cool if you could get the repair shop to take some picts of the repair process.

 

Eric

[The love of JDM]

Wow, what a nice clean car it was. Good luck with the claim, I never thought about getting Hagerty insurrance but now I will once the cars are completed. Save the classic's

[jeffer949]

Ya when i wrecked my car last june I wasnt expecting state farm (my insurance company) to value my car for nearly as much. But the guy said mine was worth in the 13k range. My damage was just like yours minus the rear end which is going to be the most of your damage.