Jump to content
HybridZ

MML Coilover assembly question


Recommended Posts

Before I fail at this can somebody tell me if I'm putting these together correctly? These are the fronts.

 

Does the top strut insulator need to be cut (bottom rubber?)

102_6128.jpg

 

Does the spring-collar combo just ride on the welded ring

102_6127.jpg

 

102_6126.jpg

 

102_6125.jpg

 

Thanks for your input

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Guys,

How will the bearing function in this case? Please explain. I am installing Coilover for someone and I really don't understand how the top portion works.

 

Insulator > Bearing >hat > spring > Collar/Sleeve >

 

How does your bearing rest on the hat ? Thanks for your help. Are 280z different than 240? I have read a lot on this. I would wait for the Pros to Chime in - JohnC :) - But I was thinking of trimming mine as well.

Dayz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys,

What do you guys do for the bearing? Obviously the bearing doesn't contact the hat (in my case) 280z struts/insulators. Is there a bushing of some sort in between? Do I cut the insulator? Do I have to make a part on the late?

Let me know,

Thanks

Dayz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

This is a late reply but I just saw this thread. I trimmed my strut insulator for the rear as I won't be running camber plates in the rear (only the front).

 

This is what Ross/Modern Motorsports said in his installation instructions email when I purchased mine from him in regards to trimming that piece and what you use for a bearing:

 

"2)black washers - 1/4" thick aluminum top perch sits on top of the spring, then anywhere from 1-3 black flat washers sit on top of that silver upper spring perch, the black washers then bear onto the OEM top strut mount.........you can trim that black rubber lip on the strut mount so you only need 1 or 2 washers if you like...(often some metal needs to be trimed to get down to using only one washer, .the more you trim it the more suspension travel you have available. You DO have to use one washer at a minimum for proper safety/bearing so keep that in mind. In the front this washer bears on the isolator right beneath the bearing within the OEM strut top. In the rear this black washer sits against the rubber isolator (no bearing in the rear OEM top)."

 

I imagine instead of using washers you could buy some needle bearings somewhere from a circle-track racing site or something. Anyone have any reason that would be a bad idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...