Drax240z Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I've used a K&N for quite a while and I've never been really sold on them as far as performance gains go, nor filtration efficiency. I need a new filter for my new engine, and am wondering what guys have used out there. Looking for a 3" inlet cone/cylindrical filter, that can support up to 400hp or so. I would like a non-oiled, paper filtration product if possible, but as a last resort I might consider a K&N again. Maybe. To me, protecting my $$$$ engine is more important than the marginal HP gains I'll see with a K&N filter. What's out there? What are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 When i first did my turbo swap, I walked into a well stocked auto parts store and began opening air filter boxes on the shelf to find the largest one that met my dimensional needs. I figure that a OEM air filter would have enough filtration for what I needed, and the fact that it was going to be BIG, it would flow more than enough. A plus would be that I could get replacements at an auto parts store. Currently I run an "ebay" cotton cone-inside-cone filter. Watch out because some of these have an internal cap that can come loose and get sucked into the compressor! Especially if it was cheaply assembled with hot-melt glue. Sorry I don't have the specs of mine handy. It was a cheap ebay one though. I don't run oil in it. Not sure if it requires it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifegrddude Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Check with AEM, they have filters called "Dryflow" which is their new type of filter. It's a non-oiled paper filter that supposedly performs, if not out performs the K&N filters. I have no experience with them though. My brother uses one on his SE-R Spec V with no problem however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I have been wanting to run the AFE brand filters, but I have some modifications to make to the intake before I know what size I will be able to run. Im temped to make an OE style intake box to keep it covered as well. I have a CHEAP $30 Kragen cone on the car now. Its a paper non-oil type. It has been on the car for less than 5000 miles and is due for its change as it is clogged from road debris. Its in the same location as the one in the picture above. The last K&N that was on the car was sucked inside out and was stopped when the rubber inlet on the turbo collapsed around it saving my compressor wheel. I refuse to believe you gain ANY ponies from any filter out there. Its just not physics. I believe you can reduce ponies by restricting your intake though. Here is where people will argue because there are MANY factors at play here, but when it comes down to it the filter is a restriction on the intake end of story no matter how free flowing it is. Then lets add a cotton filter and oil it up so it catches or how about a better word 'attracts' all the dust and road grime and wont let it go ever. Its nice to have a "cleanable" filter though. AFE is similar to the K&N. It uses a different type of oil and the filter element itself has some advanced features over a plain old cotton filter. Ive personally seen both the K&N and AFE as well as some of the Air Aid filters support up to 800 HP and 1300FT/LB range and survive. The AFE in my opinion looked to hold up the best over time. IF I had the choice to put on a OE filter box and setup on my car with my engine swap... I would. It flowed and filtered enough for my engine from the factory. My 2CENTS that's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I just though I'd throw my 2 cents in. My cousin races a super-stock on dirt track and apparently a few years ago everyone stopped running the cleanable/reusable K&N style filters and started using the paper filters from the auto-parts stores. Apparently the paper ones filter just as well (on a dirt track of all places) and actually flow better. Some cone filters have a built-in air horn to flow better. But in general I doubt a drop-in style won't gain you anything unless it's got some internal design to promote better flow (like a horn), or is significantly larger than the stock filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 I need something that is easily adaptable to a 3" round intake pipe, I'd prefer a paper cone filter but can't seem to find any disposible ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaze73 Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 I'll 2nd AFE. They're popular with the diesel truck guys. I have friends with trucks running AFE setups who work in Alberta and say that the dust up there will kill turbos/engines in a hurry without proper filtration. AFE has a dry line of filters and also have pre-filter "socks" that you can buy if you're really paranoid about the dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 I wish I still had the part number for the cylindrical paper one I found at the Auto parts store...but it had a 2.5" neck so that would not work anyhow. What about the diesel p/u trucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 I dunno... I've been running K&N on everything I've owned (mini-bikes, class 5 off road bug, street, and road race) and never had a problem. IMHO no air filter is going to increase horsepower in any measurable way beyond the statistical noise inherent in any dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 No one has mentioned Amsoil filters yet, they claim to be better than K&N: http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eaa.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 One can speculate why, but, my brother running a k/n got 40hp more removing the filter on a dyno. B16a turbo, he dynoed 300plus hp. Steve, with the blow through carbs and meth injection, lost close to 100hp without the k/n filters. Really interesting. he dynoed 850approx. If you ever get to do dyno sessions, be sure to give this a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) And on the Sunbelt engine dyno the type of filter installed when my 3L was built made no difference in power. No filter, K&N filter, and JWT Pop Charger had no effect on power beyond statistical noise. I ran the JWT Pop Charger because it fit better over the 3" CAI I had built. I guess there's a anecdote to support whichever opinion each of us has. Ultimately I don't think it matters much as long as the chosen filter is cleaned/replaced frequently. EDIT: I do know that lots of people over oil their K&N and other oiled types of filters. A very light coating is all that's needed and I am still on the first can of K&N filter oil I ever bought. Edited June 22, 2009 by johnc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 napa part #6637 should be in the realm of what your looking for. its about the size of a car battery though. also i would HIGHLY recommend NOT using a gauze type filter with any turbo application. (or really any application for that matter based off personal and first hand experience) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Great info on filter types here, and some decent experimental comparisons: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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