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Bolt on Electric Power Steering for S30/S31


S30TRBO

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azcarbum had an electric power steering unit for sale awhile back.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130027

 

Quite a bit cheaper than that, but when I saw them at the PRI show a couple years ago they were 4K.

 

Brian's (azcarbum) always has nice quality stuff. I would want to do some research on any manufacture. I would want to make sure that any power steering unit was Really reliable.

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does this really work? has anybody have experience in this?? interested

 

Yes! The one that I played with at the PRI show worked great. It even had an adjustment to control the effort of input required.

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They use these all the time on new cars....prettty trick becausethey can be completely adjustable depending on your speed or whatever you want if you have the right controller.

 

I am really interested in a setup...just doesnt seem to be much good info them...I would love to see a writeup or a test from somebody with personal experience.

 

That guy should seriously go buy some electrical tape, loom, and zip ties.

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Disscussed before, somewhere here. Still scares the bejezzes out of me....

 

 

Why is it scary? If it fails you just have regular manual steering?

 

I have no experience with this exact setup but I used to work at an ATV/Motorcycle/Snowmobile dealership in the service department. The 2007 Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI uses a similar setup and it works very well and has proven to be reliable. If it were a reputable company and quality components I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

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Yeah. I don't really see any scenario where this would lock up if it failed, unless it has a gear reduction in it, but even then it shouldn't be that hard to muscle. Now, on a conventional PS setup, if the pump fails, you sir are FUBAR'd.

 

My God mother had a case when she had an accident and crashed head first into a light pole. She said that the steering wheel just jerked all the way to one side and she couldn't steer it to correct. I told her, her pump failed. Appears her insurance agreed :P

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I just imported the Part Kit for this setup for a good freind of mine. I've taken the time to really examine the parts and the setup. In looking it over, its actually pretty easy. There is a few things I'm still trying to figure out about it.

 

HERES WHAT I KNOW ( KIT ):

 

  • Four wire install (tranlated)............ Power (battery ), Ground, speed sensor, and Ignition ON.
  • Speed sensor is a mechanical unit, installs directly to the transmission, and using your OE cable.
  • Hub adaptor for steering wheel.
  • 2 brackets ( one has been modified from the elect. unit )
  • one splined yoke adaptor.

Now here's the few parts I'm not sure about.

 

First, I'm not sure if it's just a specific unit he's using, or if he's using multiple units. ( I'll know this when I get the next kit over here and compare the part # on the elect. unit.

 

The second item I'm not to sure about, has to do with a wiring part on the elect. unit. There is something that he has installed that looks like a small chip that is in some kind of clear apoxy. The apoxy makes it impossible to see exactly what it is. It has 3 wires that are spliced into both power wires, and the ground. Now being that it's for my friends custom car, I didn't want to go and rip apart the apoxy, as it might damage it and its pretty hard. Now when I get the second one, I'm going to see about figuring out what that little booger is!............ and in the meantime, if RT gets ahold of it, maybe he'll figure it out.

 

My first thought was some kind of 24V to 12V converter, but I don't think it could be that small? Otherwise it may be some kind of diode to clean up the power signal....... Someone had told me that most the Japanese cars are 24V, is this true?

 

 

INSTALL:

 

The install looks to be pretty straight forward. One bracket bolts to the actual unit, and the other looks to be tack welded to the shaft once in place... simple and direct. It may require a mounting plate to be made to adapt, but I'm not sure.

 

Now the lower section of the steering requires you to take your existing unit and cut it. Then you would need to weld the lower section of the steering column once you have your length, to the provided yoke spline. By keeping the OE bottom section of your steering column, you should maintain your mounting plate to the firewall and your OE bushing and linkage.

 

I'm told that my friend is going to document the entire install, so I'm sure we are going to see some photo's and such on here soon!

 

B.

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Look at the setup from a newer chevy cobalt/saturn ion....its almost exactly like this and has a self contained control unit. It would probably need a dummy signal for vehicle speed which you could adjust for the desired steering effort. There is at least one other thread on this which goes into more detail I believe. It would be a slick setup for sure.

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Yeah. I don't really see any scenario where this would lock up if it failed, unless it has a gear reduction in it, but even then it shouldn't be that hard to muscle. Now, on a conventional PS setup, if the pump fails, you sir are FUBAR'd.

 

My God mother had a case when she had an accident and crashed head first into a light pole. She said that the steering wheel just jerked all the way to one side and she couldn't steer it to correct. I told her, her pump failed. Appears her insurance agreed :P

 

Thats not true, I drove around my 350Z for nearly a year with a blown power steering pump. I blew the pump doing some drifting and donuts and just said F it and drove around for awhile...sucked in parking lots but other than that it wasn't a big deal. The dealer wanted $2300 to fix it because they said the rack needed to be replaced due to "metal contamination". I got a G35 pump from a junkyard for $50 to replace it, worked good as new after flushing the fluid.

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Thats not true, I drove around my 350Z for nearly a year with a blown power steering pump. I blew the pump doing some drifting and donuts and just said F it and drove around for awhile...sucked in parking lots but other than that it wasn't a big deal. The dealer wanted $2300 to fix it because they said the rack needed to be replaced due to "metal contamination". I got a G35 pump from a junkyard for $50 to replace it, worked good as new after flushing the fluid.

 

recirculating ball joint (pitman arm)

 

And manufacturers have put safe features in new model pumps, just for the reason I described.

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