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Diagnose this problem and you win!!


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Yeah....

The fuel doesn't burn completely, I have some smoke coming out of the compressor end of the turbo and also...

 

its takes a video to explain

 

 

but as i plug the afm in while the engine is running then it will idle normally, but it will start to die so i have to plug it back in. This series of in-n-out keeps the car idling, but when I turn the key completely off it will still run until it dies.

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Combination of special Datsun magic wires and a REALLY rich condition. the puddled fuel causes the run on, and also basically runs the engine in a flooded condition. Try unplugging the cold start injector and see if it helps.

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Combination of special Datsun magic wires and a REALLY rich condition. the puddled fuel causes the run on, and also basically runs the engine in a flooded condition. Try unplugging the cold start injector and see if it helps.

 

there's no cold start injector, i'm running a straight Non-EGR N42 intake on a L28et. actually as you can see i'm not running it, its running itself.

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the reason why its probably staying on is because of bad wires to the alternator...probably the jumper wires....and that motor sounds exactly like the old turbo i used to have leaky injectors coupled with a bad afm did it for me...have you tried adjusting the afm?...have you checked or adjusted timing? also check your plugs and see what they look like there are diagnostic pictures of plugs for reference all over the internet...

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I've hooked up my injectors to my flow tester and they seem fine, with no leaks, also the plugs for them are brand new they carry current to the ECU.

Also, I've tweaked the AFM (dont worry i marked it and put it back), tested its resistance and also tested the CHTS (it matched the characteristic curve in the FSM) and although the CHTS seemed fine my AFM didn't seem right...it had some "jumpy" readings....(http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150654) However, shouldn't it be able to idle without the AFM plugged in? As you can see it neither idles with the AFM or without it. Could my ECU be bonkers?

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Have you made sure all the connections between the ECU and the various engine sensors are clean (no corrosion) and the main ECU plug has no corrosion?

 

Also ensure you have a good solid ground connection.

Those old wiring harnesses have a tendancy to corrode which degrades the connections to the ECU which then receives bogus signals from the sensors.

 

Once you've ensured all the connectors are clean then go through all the sensors to verify they are outputting readings in the expected ranges.

 

If your problem isn't solved by doing this then see if you can borrow a known good ECU. If the engine runs right with that then you know the ECU is hosed.

 

Have you considered converting to Megasquirt?

It's a very good alternative to trying to use a stock ECU on a turbo engine.

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What is the fuel management? When you unplug the AFM the car should go very rich. Also the cylinder head temp sensor will also make the car very rich if it is not connected, and when you loose the AFM input I just may make the car run.

Does the car get up to any rpm's?

You need a good O2 sensor to see what the fuel ratio really is. The stock O2 sensor for the turbo car will work, but you will need to get it hot first.

 

You mentioned the injectors, are the plastic caps to the injector nozzle intact? That will make the engine run like crap if the tips are missing.

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Are you sure your plug wires aren't 180deg out?

Also, once you foul the plugs in an L they don't like to work right again.

Check the head temp sensor as shown in the fsm, do the AFM tests while you're there. Fix whatever is wrong, put in some new plugs and try starting it.

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The rat tail is so sweet I love it. Thin hair so it makes it look really light and flutters in the wind. Mine was really thick and vulgar.

15fn96d.jpg

 

Mullrat

Didn't keep it, only had it for a couple of minutes until haircut was finished.

 

EDIT: Perhaps you convert from rat tail to skullet. Just shave everything but the tail down to something short.

 

http://mulletjunky.com/rattail.htm

 

 

^ Funniest video I have seen tonight. Hands in your pants and then the neighbor pissing you off with a lawn mower as soon as you start the video.

^Girls voice is STILL attractive. My girlfriends voice is more of a nagging tone. Facial expression when it backfired is priceless. However I can't help but feel bad for you since you've been trying hard to get it running. I'll check my stack of '83zxt **** and see if I have anything to help you.

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......you're kidding right :ugg:

 

did you even read this thread?

 

WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THAT!!!??!? :eek:

 

L6s will start and idle with the plugs 180degs out.

You didn't say where you checked the CHTS/AFM. I was too vague, I meant at the ECU connector.

 

If the AFM was "jumpy" it could be bad spots on the carbon trace.

 

Also you could have fixed the problem and never known since your plugs could be fouled.

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well guys since you're enjoying my videos, the best one is definately

 

 

or maybe the one of me rubix cubing from a couple years ago, you know its funny I just did a rubixs cube at this condo on wednesday and after almost two years of not doing it, and having a martini and some hefenweizens(?wheat beer) i was still able to do it in a time of 1:30ish :D

 

uhhh yeah all continuity to ECU checks out on EVERYTHING, and the plugs are fine testing clean to the ECU, maybe my ignitor is bad? maybe the tires don't have enough tread? who knows, i'm completely mystified.

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If you're serious about the ignitor, I have one, just pay shipping. Atleast I think I do, its on the coil bracket or something yah?

 

EDIT: just saw video and dude... :/ How does your hot voiced girlfriend date you with that.

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I've been wanting to throw this out for a while.

 

Somehow I can not be certian, but is it fireing on all holes?

 

Is it skipping here and there?

 

 

Have some one help keep it alive, and start pulling injector plugs or spark plugs.

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