rustrocket Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 So, looking at this picture, you can see i dont have much room: My solution is costly, but i think it'll work well, tell me what you guys think: Use a remote mount water pump and remove the stock water pump. Have 2 billet blocks machined, one to go over each of the holes where the water comes in/out of the block. One of them will allow a standard sbc t-stat housing to be bolted to it, also allowing me to use any SBC thermostat. This will be the water return from the radiator. The other machined block will be pretty much the same thing, but have a water outlet that goes to the radiator inlet. Does that make sense? I think i could get the whole thing done for about $500. Then i could use my electric fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slown280z Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Could you just get 2 smaller diameter fans, trim a little material from the front and run them as pushers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 see if you can find small honda civic fans - they're like 10" diameter 4 blade plastic units. You could position them around the waterpump pulley. Show me different angles of the radiator front and back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Yea, I'd run two small fans. If you can't get them to fit in back, then mount them in the front as pushers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Looks like a tubed chassis? therefore a bit of fabrication has probably already gone on? Move the engine back an inch or move the radiator forward until you have clearance, or get some 8-10" thermo fans and mount them either side like suggested, which most likely will work! BUT..........Even if the radiator is 100mm thick, there should be ample room in there for a smallblack chev? Did you custom make the radiator support panel? do you have any pics of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 BUT..........Even if the radiator is 100mm thick, there should be ample room in there for a smallblack chev? I'm guessing this is his other project and not a Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134849 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I'm guessing this is his other project and not a Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134849 Oh............the pics don't show up but I assume a triumph? So probably not room at the front, besides altering the firewall I think there may not bo to may ideas available besides trying the twin thermos or the remote water pump! Or maybe ditch the thick radiator and use one that isn't thicker than 25mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 Yes, this is in the good ol triumph... Here is without the radiator mounted and bodywork on: Aux - Are these pictures helpful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 And unfortunately, moving the engine back isn't really an option at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodie Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 there are several diff oe water pumps for the ls series it look like you using a fbody pump you might you might a vette or gto one, thatll have a shorter nose. but you prob gonna half to spend some time at you local parts store to fing the size you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbojohnny Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 how about an electric water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 it would have to be remote and i'd hve to get rid of the idler pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodie Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 http://www.gmtruckhq.com/lsx-discussions/ls-x-based-s10-truck-conversions-2721.html here a link doing a quick search showing a diffrent pumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 The stock late model Camaro radiator looks a lot thinner and you know it would cool. I have one handy if you need any dimensions or even if you want to buy I dont need it. The tanks are thicker but the core is only 1" thick. Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Cameron - I have 21 3/4" between the framerails and can't go higher than 19. How big is the camaro unit? -Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) And unfortunately, moving the engine back isn't really an option at this point. Same problem for every v8 Austin Healy 3000 swap. Here are two options. 1. Do away with the stock water pump; replace it with a remotely located Minieri (spelling sucks). Their catalogue lists one pump mounted on the bottom of the radiator. The other is to look at the ls4 optioned 5.3 water pumps. GM shortened the GEN III engine to fit transversely into Impala and Malibu SS cars. I've read from GM sites that the crank shaft was shortened a bit on the snout and flywheel. The actual water pump is flat and mounts to one side and up. If they bolt to your block, then you may only have to deal with a shallow pulley. I think it warrants a look. http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/cat_header/747_1.pdf g Edited July 27, 2009 by zgeezer Add picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 I think a remote pump sounds more logical than dealing with a shorter water pump snout that still would need to run off the same belt system. Changing the depth of the water pump pulley means changing the crank pulley as well, which results in rethinking the alternator pulley along with it. That's a decent headache at this point imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 My buddy said he'll start machining my billet blocks this week. Sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 how about a push fan versus a pull fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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