super74 Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Hello, everyone: I've been searching the forums regarding manual transmission rebuilds for a couple of weeks now, and I've come up with a lot of good information, but there's one piece of the "puzzle" missing: how does one get around the "special tools" problem?? I am referring to an early 5-speed (fs5w71b), and I know that bearing pullers/separators and hydraulic presses can be obtained fairly easily, but what about a holding fixture?? In all the really terrific write-ups I've seen here and on other sites, no one refers to or even alludes to how the heck you hold the main and countershafts stationary while trying to shear the bolts loose (120+ and 80+ ft./lbs. of torque each). Can they be reused, even though the factory manual (I think) states to replace them?? Not to mention, how do you retorque them once the parts replacement is done?? I'm assuming that it is possible to engage two gears at once and effectively "lock" the transmission in place while it's apart, which might make the loosening/tightening possible, but that might be a recipe for disaster if something slipped or broke. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated, as I'll be going down this road very soon. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 pipe wrench, drive shaft, clutch disc. The pipe wrench can mesh with the splines as long as you orient it the correct way. With the driveshaft or front yoke you can slip it on and use a pry bar and lock it against the bench. The center plate will be in a bench vise. You can also search on zcar.com author name "grahambcz". He has a write up on rebuilding the z transmissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAG58 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I put it in 5th and had a plain driveshaft yoke sitting around. A big pipe went through that so I had a pair of 6 foot long bars doing my work for me. To Hold it still, I just re-bolted the front housing on temporarily so I could hang the tranny on the engine stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I just pull the shift rods and engage two gears at once. That locks up things nicely and doesn't risk marring anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super74 Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Thanks to everyone for responding. All those techniques are just what I need. It just so happens I was poking around on atlanticz.ca yesterday and went into a section of the tech tips that I hadn't looked in before: transmission. There, I ran into the tip about the long pry bar through the driveshaft yoke. I was going to post it here as a follow up so that anyone searching in the future could find it more quickly, but now that it has been mentioned by people other than myself, it's here for the ages. Thanks again. It's time to start wrenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I rebuilt and upgraded my T-5, best tool was the Manual. I was able to borrow a buddies press. Other than that, snap ring pliers were the only tool i had to buy, rest of my hand tools,, my heavy bench and vice did the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAG58 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 The T5 I liked much more than the Z tranny just because I thought it was much more simplistic to set up lash on. But it was a hugely different beast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super74 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 It's good to know that others have gotten through this process and have had decent results. Now that I know the tool issue isn't insurmountable, I feel better about diving into this project. The funny thing is, the previous owner cut the driveshaft about an inch behind the front universal joint in order to remove the transmission in the first place. This left an intact "anchor" (a driveshaft yoke) right in front of my eyes and it never dawned on me. I wouldn't have thought the yoke to be tough enough to take a bar through it (I figured it would deform from the twisting force when loosening the mainshaft nut) but I guess you learn something new every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col10see Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) Waking an old thread up but is this all I need for my 280zx rebuild... http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=230939690223 Are there any other things I may wsnt to do wile im in there? Edited April 15, 2013 by col10see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Need or needed? Is the rebuild done? How are the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Waking an old thread up but is this all I need for my 280zx rebuild... http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=230939690223 Are there any other things I may wsnt to do wile im in there? That kit does not include the o-rings and seals for the speedometer drive and the striking rod and guide. Also, the pins for the shift-forks should be replaced. You could also replace the shifter dust-boot and clutch release fork dust-boot if needed while you are at it. All are still available from Nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Also, the mainshaft and countershaft nuts. those are still available as well, no matter what the guy at the local parts counter says. Make sure you get the proper ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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