cygnusx1 Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 With two SCOSCHE brand distribution blocks from Walmart. They cost about $15 each and I also bought a misc. pack of Maxi fuses for $5. I mounted them to a peice of 4.75" x 4.5" stainless sheet. I screwed that plate to the tap holes that held the front fusible link box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Looking great! I did that to mine and it fixed my charging issue. Getting the Amp numbers off the Atlantic Z car site - The Beige fuse is 80 Amp, the Green is 30 [like the fuses that come with the Scoche block] and the Reds are 50 Amp. Just letting you know Here is the only picture I have: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 I did about the same thing also. Looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pallnet Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Looks a whole lot like the ones I did on my Z years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 I must say that I was not breaking new ground here. It's just one of those things that you plan to do for 10 years...before you actually get to it. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pallnet Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Sorry I didn't mean to come across that way if I did. When I posted my pic I had it in my head that it works well, it's a good mod and you shouldn't have problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 cynus- Great looking upgrade! Very nice design and execution. I have to confess that I had been meaning to post a similar thread for a while now -- just never got to it. I recently replace my old (crappy) fusible links....went the circuit breaker route, and chose these: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p183.html A little pricey, but hopefully will last forever (certainly longer than me or the car!) I chose 80 amp and 50 amp units. They're dustproof, waterproof, and can be manually tripped to act as a master disconnect. I mounted them inside the engine compartment relay bracket -- it's finally good for something since I had already removed the myriad of factory relays in there. Might I suggest that this thread be moved to the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum? (Mods, SysAds?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 My only concerns are the set screw terminals for the wires. I soldered the wire tips before tightening down on them. Is that acceptable, or will they lose grip over time? I suppose if the connection was poor, the area would get hot due to resistance, and would show up as a voltage drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Had the same thought when I was wiring up my circuit breakers. I would think that you'd be fine with the soldered wire ends as long as you can sufficiently tighten the terminal nuts. Might help a little if you can put lock washers on (not the single-split kind of lock washer, but the kind with dozens of little splines sticking out). Sorry if I'm not correctly describing the lock washer; it's been a long day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HizAndHerz Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Be aware that the contacts on the Scosche fuse blocks can corrode over time. I did this upgrade on two of our 280z's a few years back and both cars have had trouble with headlights going dim and worst of all, leaving my wife and son stranded late at night in both of their Z's. The corrosion problem was not obvious and hard to diagnose because the fuses would check fine and just removing and replacing the fuses would make the problem go away... temporarily. I think the problem is that moisture can easily get to the fuse blocks when they are mounted on the outside of the relay box. The hood vents on 280's make the moisture problem worse. To keep their cars going, I've had to clean the contacts temporarily and use dielectric grease to help protect the contacts. On my 280Z, I replaced the relay box with its ancient relays and fuse links with a fuse/relay box from a Dodge Neon. It had just the right number of relays and Maxi-fuse holders for my setup. The box has seals so there's little chance of problems with moisture. No problems after 3 years. It was a major wiring project but I'm happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Thanks for the heads up. My car rarely sees moisture and I have no hood vents but I will definitely apply dielectric grease on all the connections including terminals and fuse blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh280z Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 why not apply a coat of clear on the wiring? wouldn't that solve the corrosion issue??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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