1badeagle Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 (edited) Ok guys so i got some issues with my car and i need some help. Mods are intake mods, no cat. Car has 240k on it and has been rebuilt -When i start my car in the morning or after it has sat all day at work. It has to crank an excessive amount before starting.(5-7 seconds) Once it starts it idles funny for a few second then its ok. Any ideas? -When i start my car and take off if i floor it within the first few minutes of starting, it spits and sputters and wont go anywhere and has no power at all.Any clues? -When I get on the throttle hard it pulls ok up to about 4300 rpm then it wont gain anymore speed until i shift. Is it running out of fuel? Whats wrong here? -Sometimes, more often than not, the motor wil tick. It will sometimes be louder than others and it will sometimes go away when the motor is reved up. It sounds like its coming from the front of the motor when i listen with a stethiscope. But i cant pinpoint it cause its coming from everypoint. Any ideas? I never noticed these issues when i first got the car a few months ago. It seems as thought they progressively have gotten worse. Thanks alot, Dustin Edited September 15, 2009 by 1badeagle Forgot a question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stravi757 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Check and clean all of your electrical connections. I would start at the water temp sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Have you checked the connections to the Vacuum Control Module? A S130 owner locally had what sounds like a similar problem and one of the wires had fallen off the VCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badeagle Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Where is this vcm that you speak of? Can it cause a loss in power,ticking, hard starting. All of my issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 No... but it might help the power loss issues up top. Ticking? I don't know, maybe you need a valve adjustment? Get an FSM, it's really easy to do. That is a picture of the VCM I had, it is located on the passenger side near the strut tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badeagle Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Thanks a ton flat black, i still love your car. Any more ideas guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 dude why is everyone all of a sudden getting my same issue!!! Lets all try and figure this out!! Mine dose the exact same thing. Even before my 300zxt ECU swap and still dose it to this day! Im thinking TPS (throttle position sensor) When I start in morning starts ok but boggs a bit gotta give it some gas to get her to idle.. then occasionally at start when I go to drive it boggs right out and puffs and sputters then all of a sudden VROOM takes off.. anyone else got Ideas! I guess I could find a temp sensor and replace my tps now that I have another 240sx throttle body.... I rewired everythign today soooooo still clueless... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stravi757 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 dude why is everyone all of a sudden getting my same issue!!! Lets all try and figure this out!! Mine dose the exact same thing. Even before my 300zxt ECU swap and still dose it to this day! Im thinking TPS (throttle position sensor) When I start in morning starts ok but boggs a bit gotta give it some gas to get her to idle.. then occasionally at start when I go to drive it boggs right out and puffs and sputters then all of a sudden VROOM takes off.. anyone else got Ideas! I guess I could find a temp sensor and replace my tps now that I have another 240sx throttle body.... I rewired everythign today soooooo still clueless... Well like i said before make sure about your connections and yes i would replace the water temp sensor. I had every problem 1badeagle described except for the power loss in my 280z, I cleaned ever connection and replaced the thermo time switch and water temp sensor and i never had a cold start problem again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Yeah I just put an entirely new 240sx throttle body on with another TPS reset ignition timing and checked all connections, Rewired anything that looked fishy, put in another O2 sensor and now am doing plugs and oil change.. then I guess its temp sensor time Cause after that i have replaced almost everything except that little round thing beside coil whats it calld again.. Stores charge or something? all I know is when its not grounded the car wont start lol. So other than the temp sensor and that thingy everythings replaced.. Even used the guts of a 300zx Distributor and inserted in my 280zxt SHell and that didnt cure it either!... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Um, look at the FSM... Neither the water temp sensor nor the thermotime switch have anything to do with EFI on an L28ET. They don't connect to the ECU... The water temp sensor (yellow) goes to the gauge in the cockpit. The thermotime switch just runs the injector fan (after the car stops running IF the water temp is over 2xx degrees (sorry, can't remember the exact temp)) The temp sensor connected to the ECU is the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor on the oil filter side of the engine. The TPS only shows "throttle closed" (no throttle) OR "throttle not closed" (you've stepped on the pedal). It doesn't show "amount of throttle" (the switch can't show 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, etc...) or WOT (which it can... that function just isn't used by the L28ET ECU) My bet would be: wiring, electrical connectors, vacuum (including VCM and/or the 2 things it controls: AAC and EGR) (In a stock ZXT, the VCM is mounted opposite the AFM on the same bracket) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUZN Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 ok heres my build. Thing is... I have it down to a Coil/Distribution of Spark problem. or if the Cylinder Head temp sensor if it would cause Bogging at stoplight Acceleration or half throttle area (maybe most engine vibration) its very strange because... I have eliminated all AAC/EGR ect ect my intake is as follows. Filter on end of MAF ---> Turbo ---> intercooler (just over the weekend) ---> Throttle Body (240sx) ---> intake plenum ----> combustion chamber ----> Exhaust (O2)...... So what are your thoguhts.. ECU (swapped to 300zxt 1987) MAF (maxima 1992) TB (240sx 60mm) Stock 280zxt injection Stock sensors TPS 1990 Maxima Converted to Cable throttle Ported head intake to 32.55mm (from I think stock was 28.5mm) so to *gasket match* 1987 300zxt turbo mated to 280ZXT wastegate and downpipe 280zxt Wastegate actuator (1981.5 stock) Swapped in and out MFPR and Stock FPR no change tried different fuel ranging PSI from 32psi to 50Psi Switched out distrubutor internals with 300zx and same symptoms Soooo this problem was happening before my swap to ECU Z31T so I was hoping the change would cure it with better mapping ect ect but to no avail. its almost like I have an injector stuck open but when I check plugs they are all slightly blackend with soot so its as if its misfiring on all cylinders intermitantly or just over fueling every so often... any ideas greatly appreciated.. I should test the Head temp sensor I guess.. Anyone know resistance values or I guess I can look it up on ALLDATA. after that if that is all good. then I guess im looking to buy a New Cap and or Coil assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badeagle Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Still no fix. I checked the vcm like suggested and it was still intact. Any other ideaqs? could it be a fuel pressure reg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Then you'll know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1badeagle Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Ok guys, i pulled the valve cover off to check the valves and noticed that on the drivers side of the timing chain it is incredibly loose. Is this normal? I see a rebuild by me in the future. Also is it me or do you need some kind of special tool to run the valves on this thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZLadie2000 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 -When i start my car and take off if i floor it within the first few minutes of starting, it spits and sputters and wont go anywhere and has no power at all.Any clues? I have this same issue in my 83 ZXT w/160k (has not been rebuilt), and the bogging problem does seem to disappear when the engine reaches full operating temp. Did notice this problem after I ran Seafoam in the car (crankcase, gas tank, and intake), I thought my fuel filter was clogged from the Seafoam in the tank and replaced it but the problem remains and it only occurs while cold. Im thinking maybe a clogged Cat, because the spark plugs are oily (prob worn piston rings), and the car is misfiring sometimes, which could cause unburnt fuel to enter the cat and melt the components. I guess is: 1. Clogged cat (goes away when car warms up and cat heats up) 2. Engine Temp Sensor. 3. Clogged Fuel Injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 You need to read up on the cold start system in the efi bible. Mark the wheel in the afm and then trun it clockwise a few teeth in order to lean it out some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nyczxt Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Sounds like a vacum leak. When I bought my car, it did all the same things. I changed the plugs, wires and distributor cap and changed all the vacum hoses 1 at a time until the problem went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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