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Eagle Rods....What do you think?


jerryb

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They're about the same as most chinease forged units. Are we talking 300hp 6cyl or 4cyl? Depending on the motor, a stock set of rods, with some rod bolts and maybe some shot-peening would do just fine.

 

However, I've seen good results in multiple platforms with eagle rods, but I have heard some things about discrepancies in dimensions, so before you put them in, I would mic all the machined surfaces to make sure they meet spec.

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I have an eagle 355ci rotating assembly in one of my firebirds, it's been flawless for the past 3 years running low 12's, being shifted at 6k regularly and seeing 7k occasionally, and generally just being beat on.

 

As with anything, check it for yourself before it goes in the motor. Not doing so is just lazy, even with big money parts.

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I use Eagle Rods In my Datsun L28, Honda B16 & B18 and My Mazda FS-DE motors. I have beat on them all for many years with no problems. We use them ALL the time at my machine shop for street or race engines. We have had failures but I dont think any from quality. Now they are on the heavy side.

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I know my dad has always ran eagle h beam rods in his bug for ever, the same exact set, till his engine blew due to a defect in his crank shaft. This is the same set of rods for a good many years, with about 10,000 miles of drag racing between rebuilds (rebuilt probably 4-5 times, if not more) His engine was estimated at about 250hp, running 11.5:1

so I haven't really heard anything bad about them. a lot of vw guys run them.

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Eagle is an American company. Being an American, I'd go with them just because I can get ahold of them, they speak my language, etc. Considering you live in the 51st state, ( :wink: ), that might not be as much of a selling point for you, but they have indeed been a decent manufacturer. As with any hard parts, check them thoroughly as the previous posters stated. Even if they're Pauter, Crower, Carillo, etc.

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Well I know the KA24de has supported over 450whp in stock junkyard form. Throw in some good pistons, arp rod bolts and the factory rods should be more than strong enough.

 

450whp is very dangerous in a ka with stock rods that is near there failure point and should be avoided...the trannys dont like that much power either...300 should be fine on stock rods and will be no problem at all with eagle rods on 300 hp because the rods are rated at 900hp as long as you dont run the motor dry on oil or overheat...ive seen a set of eagle rods in a blown ka that got overheated the rods were discolored but it only warped them so little that they were machined out true and reused ...

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So my 2 options are:

  1. spend $300 for a set a brand new EAGLE rods..delivered
  2. spend about $125+ to shot peen and add new ARP fasteners

It seems that the frugal approach is go stock....but then, you still have old rods....and some doubts.

 

I think I will go Eagle.....I can sell off my 2 sets of OEM rods and make up some of the difference.

 

They sound like a decent product...but are they US or China made?? The local machine shop says Chinese and swears by them as well.

 

Maybe overkill for 300HP but then....I may turn up the boost sooner or later....

 

Thanx all..........

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We have a local 240sx guy that dynod 419whp on the factory rod and weisco pistons. Motor has been together going on 3 years.

 

 

i never said it couldnt be done...with a really good tuner and absolutely no detonation its very possible...even with a crappy tune its possible for a while...but sooner or later somethings gonna happen...and i wouldnt want invested money destroyed just because $300 dollar rods weren't replaced...

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Imo, it's best to build you bottom end as bullet proof as you can afford to. If you have a very reliable strong base to work with, you can always add whatever you like onto it later. Who says you're not going to want to run 20+ lbs of boost with a 150 shot to spool a huge turbo later down the road? ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Same here.

 

You are shooting for 300hp and Z-Gad and I are shooting for triple that, so go for it. Machine work, clearances, hardware and assembly are just as important as the rods you choose. Spend a few extra coin and get a set of ARP rod bolts, main studs and head studs.

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Same here.

 

You are shooting for 300hp and Z-Gad and I are shooting for triple that, so go for it. Machine work, clearances, hardware and assembly are just as important as the rods you choose. Spend a few extra coin and get a set of ARP rod bolts, main studs and head studs.

 

 

just about every aftermarket rod including eagle comes with arp rod bolts or comparable hardware

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