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any regrets after shaving drip rails?


adam78280z

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YES I WOULD NEVER EVER EVER CUT MINE OFF AGAIN.

 

You will get soaked whenever it rains and you neat to crack you window, or whenever there is dew on top of you car in the morning and you go around the first corner.

 

Also when driving in the rain if you crack the window at all the airflow around the front pillar will shoot water in your eyes! Seriously straight in them its really aggravating. I'm going to make a little aluminum deflector for this.

 

Also removing the rail brings your attention to the door/roof seam which is otherwise hidden. Most car don't line up perfect there and look weird unless you are running weatherstripping along the top (like on 280z's).

 

Its a lot of trouble and it maybe look pretty cool, but I think the rails add a classy look and I would love to have the functionality back!

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I think i've convinced my self to start cutting tomorrow. Anyone regret it after chopping them off?:redface:

 

I have only seen one car that removed the drip rails. It was a beatiful orange car that was done to the highest levels. I first saw it at the Solvang Roadster Show 2009 were it had a copy of a magazine under the windshild wiper, it was on the cover. The next day the car was at the West Coast Z Nationals. It looked good. My only thought was that it changed the look from an older classic car to one of a more modern style. That can be good, if that is what you are looking for? Good luck.

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  • 1 month later...

I did it to my last z. You cant just cut the rail off. You need to have a good shielded gas welder setup. and a torch to take out the lead. I liked the way mine looked, but i put a LOT of time into it, and had every imaginable fabrication tool at my disposal.

 

Its not any fun in the rain either... Made me feel pretty stupid getting rain shot into my eyes at 70 mph. But hey it was my first v8 z it wasnt supposed to be comfortable, it was supposed to be cool!

 

Joe

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A plasma cutter will cut them off clean and smooth... through paint, rust, and lead in less time than it takes to brush your teeth.

 

I would like to point out that the drip rails serve a structural purpose. There are several layers of metal sandwiched together over the door openings. The "drip rail is the only junction between the various layers that make up the roof and door perimeter. This is a classic weak point in terms of protection and stiffness.

 

If you see a cross section of a cut roof rail you can see that the channel formed outside the roof is there for manufacturing purposes. It allows welding access and makes a stiff join between the pieces. It also adds up to a hefty chunk of metal(as unibodies go). If you remove the rail you cannot properly weld all of the pieces back together. You could form a cap over the edge for reinforcement but the middle layer of metal would not be joined to the formed cap.

 

Of course if you have a roll cage then you don't need to worry about the factory roof structure.

 

I think there is plenty of room for improvement over the original design, especially for a street rod that needs extra stiffnes in the roof without a full cage and helmet.

If I were to modify the factory roof without a full cage installed(a street rod). I would leave the drip rail alone. I would cut the roof skin out. I would leave 2" of metal around the perimeter and fold it down and weld it to the inner C channel to form a "box section" around the roof perimeter. I would add gusset plates(overlays) to the joints at the corners and double seam weld the entire structure. I would fill the A-pillars and new upper box section with structural foam. Finish with a fiberglass cap.

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I would like to point out that the drip rails serve a structural purpose. There are several layers of metal sandwiched together over the door openings. The "drip rail is the only junction between the various layers that make up the roof and door perimeter. This is a classic weak point in terms of protection and stiffness.

Not true. The thickest reinforcement piece in the roof there doesn't attach to the drip rail directly, so cutting off the drip rail doesn't affect how the bracket is attached at all. It attaches to the flat spot on the bottom of the roof/ top of door jamb where the door seals at the top and the windows seal to in the rear quarters. The drip rail is two pieces of thin sheetmetal, not a sandwich of thicker layers. At least that's how it is on my 70. Pics:

 

DSCN0803.jpg

 

DSCN0804.jpg

 

DSCN0810.jpg

 

DSCN0812.jpg

 

 

If you see a cross section of a cut roof rail you can see that the channel formed outside the roof is there for manufacturing purposes. It allows welding access and makes a stiff join between the pieces. It also adds up to a hefty chunk of metal(as unibodies go). If you remove the rail you cannot properly weld all of the pieces back together. You could form a cap over the edge for reinforcement but the middle layer of metal would not be joined to the formed cap.

The middle layer isn't attached to the drip rail directly, so again, I think this isn't true. What you have to do which might be a bit on the hokey side is weld the roof to the jamb area and then grind that down so that it is smooth, but it is a full weld, not a spot welded flange, so as to which is stronger I couldn't say. The flange may make the drip rail stiffer. As far as welding the jamb to the heavier reinforcement piece, I had my Z on a rotisserie, so I was able to lay a piece of sheet metal down and plug weld the reinforcement to the flat piece pretty securely. Without a way to tip the car over, you'd have to be pretty good at upside down welding to get it attached securely, and I am not good at that...

 

It's entirely possible that later models are built differently, but this is the way my 70 was put together.

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Ahhh.. I see ... The third layer is not included in the drip rail sandwich... It was only welded to the inner channel. There are several transitions in the roof line where the various parts combine differently. That picture shows the rear sail to roof junction. The cuts I made were there and forward of the dash area. There are quite a few extra layers where the roof is joined to the rest of the chassis.

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Even if the drip rail is only two layers the flange that the drip rail is adds to the overall stiffness of the outer roof structure. Sticking out from the edge of the roof contributes to countering twisting forces in the roof, and thus, to twisting in the unibody overall.

 

Through great efforts at gnashing of teeth and structural analisys we could argue and calculate the size of that contribution, but I doubt it to be negligable. When you consider the metal fatigue that butt welding the seam back together adds, the argument gets stronger for keeping the rail.

 

On the other hand, if you are going to cage the car it makes no difference, stucturally.

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