thehelix112 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Guys, Just thought I'd share what I'm working on at the moment. DIY bump-steer adjustable tie rod ends. Parts: midwest control hex steel turn buckles (PN HBT8-8.00) 5/8" high misalignment tie rod ends + nuts coleman racing bump steer bushing kit(PN 808-900) Tools: 5/8" tap M14x1.5 tap M14x1.5 left-handed tap (still waiting on peoples to actually send me the right one) misc drill bits (9/16", 1/2") Apologies in advance for the really crap pictures. Drilling out the end: Retapping to 5/8": With 5/8" rod end installed: My only concern with this design was the relatively thin-wall thickness. The thickness is between 1.75mm-2mm at its thinnest point, what do you guys think? Also, I was thinking just grade 8 hardware for the bolts, and am planning on just drilling out the steering arm hole to 5/8". Sound ok? Regards, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 vise grip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 All OK Dave, except the vice grips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 hehe, i'm a tightarse, what can I say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mklotz70 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 If side wall is a concern, I'm curious why you didin't just use the HBT10-8.00. It's about $3 more, but would have saved the drilling/tapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Because only one end has to be 5/8. The inner ends have to be M14x1.5 left and right hand. I went the size I did because its smaller than both, but already drilled true so I can use the existing holes as a guide (I don't have a lathe/drill press in America). Hope that makes sense. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mklotz70 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 That makes perfect sense...now that I reread the first post and saw the metric sizes....thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Best not to have them too strong anyway, steering gear needs a 'weak' link so when you hit a kerb or whatever that part will bend and save the rack from severe impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I apologize in advance if I'm being a bit dense with this question, but how is this different from the stock tie rod end as far as bump steer is concerned? Unless you move the attachment position of the steering knuckles to the tie rod end, isn't this just the same as the stock geometry? What am I missing? BTW, I've been known to use a vice grip for a tap too, although I've also successfully used a socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 When you lengthen the track of the front end for ex. adjustable control arms (as Dave has done) you start to run out of threads on the stock tie rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Yes, lengthening the tie rods is important, but I think the rod end implies that he will be drilling out the steer knuckles, and that means he can shim the rod ends up or down to adjust bump steer. Hence the title "DIY bump steer adjustable tie rod ends". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Thanks Jon, that explains how this will enable adjusting bump steer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Out of curiosity what is the original hole diameter for the steering arm? Is there a real necessity in using a 5/8 rod end and bolt? I was thinking of doing something similar but using the 1/2 rod end, then drilling the steering arm out and fitting the hole with a metal sleeve in order to be able to use a 1/2" bolt, rather than taping the turnbuckle for 5/8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Out of curiosity what is the original hole diameter for the steering arm? Is there a real necessity in using a 5/8 rod end and bolt? I was thinking of doing something similar but using the 1/2 rod end, then drilling the steering arm out and fitting the hole with a metal sleeve in order to be able to use a 1/2" bolt, rather than taping the turnbuckle for 5/8. If you do a search you will find that Terry (blueovalz) did exactly that, but you will need to make some cone shaped inserts that fit the tapered hole. By drilling the knuckle to 5/8 you completely eliminate the original hole and that's why I think people tend to do it that way. It's just a bit easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Zmanco, Jon is correct. You can use the bump steer bushing kit from coleman racing I mention in the original post: PN 808-900. Richard, good point, but I'd rather not have the steering fail on me whilst driving about normally either. Sweet spot inbetween there somewhere Hardest part of this exercise so far has been trying to source the M14x1.5 left handed tap. Maryland metrics sell them, but I think they sent me a right handed one. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 If you do a search you will find that Terry (blueovalz) did exactly that, but you will need to make some cone shaped inserts that fit the tapered hole. By drilling the knuckle to 5/8 you completely eliminate the original hole and that's why I think people tend to do it that way. It's just a bit easier.I should have realized the hole is tapered, I thought it was normal. I'm thinking I'll drill it out to 5/8 and use a straight metal insert so I can use a 1/2" bolt and rod end. That would at least avoid having to drill and tap both sides of the turnbuckle. Hardest part of this exercise so far has been trying to source the M14x1.5 left handed tap. Maryland metrics sell them, but I think they sent me a right handed one.If you give up on those guys Mcmaster has the taps youre looking for. Their prices are generally not too bad.http://www.mcmaster.com/#26565a392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 If you give up on those guys Mcmaster has the taps youre looking for. Their prices are generally not too bad.http://www.mcmaster.com/#26565a392 !!!!! You my friend, ROCK! Thank you! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Those S30 steering arm holes are a bitch to drill out too, hard as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Those S30 steering arm holes are a bitch to drill out too, hard as. The key is to have a SHARP bit and use CUTTING FLUID, not WD-40. I used bacon grease as a cutting fluid. Worked great. Before the fluid I burned up two bits and thought it was impossible. With the grease the drill just cut right through in about 2 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 The key is to have a SHARP bit and use CUTTING FLUID, not WD-40. I used bacon grease as a cutting fluid. Worked great. Before the fluid I burned up two bits and thought it was impossible. With the grease the drill just cut right through in about 2 minutes. Canola oil works really well too. Just make sure to wash it off before it hardens. And a 5/8 bridge reamer does a really quick job of this if you have one. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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