A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z

[lwood240z]

Stock fuel injectors are $35 a piece and are a borg warner race series injector. Would I need to upgrade from this or what horsepower range will these work til? I keep reading about the gas tank and how you have to get the one from a fuel injected vehicle. Is this true? Is there any other major components that anyone can think of that I should know? Flywheel, clutch, engine parts,etc... I have an electronic distributor from a '83 maxima wagon, an msd blaster2 coil, 5-spd. from '82 280zx, rear diff. from '77 280z, Electric fuel pump from '74 260z(i think),stock F54 block, a P90 head(non-hydraulic). As far as the head, Motorsport Auto told me that the P90 will work in place of a P90a and they said it was better because they have a wider range of parts available for the P90, is this true? One more thing, Motorsport Auto Also said that I need to have the Air regulator hooked up or the car won't idle. This is the unit at the front of the intake manifold with the electrical plug. Every setup I see online, does not have this hooked up or even anywhere to be found. Do i need this or can I get around it somehow?

[FlatBlack]

It seems like you've done your research outside of HybridZ, which is a good starting point, but all of these questions have been answered here multiple times.

 

Also I think there haven't been any replies to your thread because most people shy away from reading a big block of text like that.

 

Since you've done some homework, I'm going to get the spoon out.

 

I am running the stock L28ET injectors, they are 260cc. I am already maxing them out at 8 lbs of boost on a stock L28ET setup [i'm running a higher compression NA > T swap though]

 

I have a stock 240sx 225mm clutch, and it slipped very soon after I did the swap, you'll want to get a 240mm flywheel and 240mm clutch off of an L28ET, or just try and get the whole drivetrain out of a 280ZX Turbo.

 

What engine management do you plan on running? What is your budget? These are all good things to know when asking questions like this.

 

Good luck with your project, turbo swaps are definitely worth the money. I think I have about $1500 [roughly, more or less depending on what you include] in my swap with a stand alone ECU [MegaSquirt] and a Front Mount Intercooler.

 

The difference of performance is night and day.

[RTz]

Stock fuel injectors are $35 a piece and are a borg warner race series injector.

 

Stock what? L24E? L28E? L28ET?

 

Common injector calculators will tell you... L28E injectors, @ 40psi, will run 80% duty cycle at around 150hp, L28ET injectors will run 80% duty around 210hp. In practice, we usually get a bit more out of them. Many people run a lot closer to the edge. Only you can decide how reasonable that is.

 

 

I keep reading about the gas tank and how you have to get the one from a fuel injected vehicle. Is this true?

 

 

Have to? Nope. It would be wise to do something though. Picking up an air pocket under boost is bad. Very bad. There are many choices. Spend some time searching for "surge tank" or "swirl pot". Lots of good info on this forum.

 

 

Is there any other major components that anyone can think of that I should know? Flywheel, clutch, engine parts,etc...

 

 

There is LOTS to know about turbocharged engines and related components. For some, it's a life long study. There are no 'get smart quick' books (or forums). Read. Read. Read. Read everything you can get your hands on.

 

 

As far as the head, Motorsport Auto told me that the P90 will work in place of a P90a and they said it was better because they have a wider range of parts available for the P90, is this true?

 

 

I'd guess they're speaking mostly of aftermarket cams. Last I checked, they had nothing for the hydraulic head. So, if you want a different cam, a mechanical head is probably going to be your best bet. Better yet, ask THEM what they mean by "wider range of parts".

 

One more thing, Motorsport Auto Also said that I need to have the Air regulator hooked up or the car won't idle.

 

 

If that's exactly what they said, they are dead wrong. The purpose of the air reg. is to provide a fast idle when the engine is cold. Once warm, the air reg. does absolutely nothing.

 

 

This is the unit at the front of the intake manifold with the electrical plug. Every setup I see online, does not have this hooked up or even anywhere to be found. Do i need this or can I get around it somehow?

 

 

They can be bypassed very easily. The consequence is a cold idle problem.

 

There is much discussion on this forum about all your questions. It takes time to learn the answers. There is no shortcut. Search and read. Search and read.

[bumble zee]

Without running a air regulator your car will run rough while cold.. like you have a big cam. Once my o2 warms up it runs smoother and perfect at operating temp.

 

Only "Sensors" you really need are;

o2

AFM

Head temp

Water temp

TPS (which really only works at idle to bring the timing at a good spot to idle.)

[lwood240z]

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate all the great info on what to do and look for. Looking forward to some of this fun stuff when I have the money to put it all together. Also, something else I just thought of, the emergency relief valve on the intake manifold. Do I need to have one hooked up there for overboost protection or could I mount another blow-off valve there set to match the boost level that I will run?

[bumble zee]

Pop off and blow off are 2 completely different things. Clearly you know the pop off is a overboost protection. On yours I think its set at 9 psi. You can crush it to make it open at a higher psi, or remove it all together and just get a boost guage.

 

Blow off is mainly for the turbo. With out one, all that pressure you built has to go somewhere when you let off the gas, and it goes back out the way it came in caused the turbo to rapidly slow, or reverse. That is a lot of stress on a turbo, espesially if you run higher psi's.

 

So the blow off valve releases the pressure when you let off the gas so it won't go back through the turbo. You will also benifit because the turbine won't slow as much between shifts and the boost will come back very quick for the next gear.

 

And last... they just sound cool.

[lwood240z]

Pop off and blow off are 2 completely different things. Clearly you know the pop off is a overboost protection. On yours I think its set at 9 psi. You can crush it to make it open at a higher psi, or remove it all together and just get a boost guage.

 

Blow off is mainly for the turbo. With out one, all that pressure you built has to go somewhere when you let off the gas, and it goes back out the way it came in caused the turbo to rapidly slow, or reverse. That is a lot of stress on a turbo, espesially if you run higher psi's.

 

So the blow off valve releases the pressure when you let off the gas so it won't go back through the turbo. You will also benifit because the turbine won't slow as much between shifts and the boost will come back very quick for the next gear.

 

And last... they just sound cool.

 

Say I want to run 12psi on my setup when all said and done. If the pop-off valve is set too low on psi, exactly how do you "crush" it to make it higher? If I get rid of it all together, what do I have to watch for, since it is there for protection and how do I fill the 1.25" hole that it leaves. I found one thread somewhere that says to drill a hole in the valve plate so you can turn a like tension spring in and around the valve pole, thus creating double the psi needed to open. If there is no viable solution to keep it on, what can be done to fill or cover the humongous hole left?

[nosebleedZ]

You need a 1" pipe plug from a hardware store to plug where the BOV is mounted in the intake. My advice is to remove it & plug it....it's pretty useless except in a "stock" level overboost situation (8-9 psi). Then you will need a compressor bypass valve mounted as close to throttle body as possible to blow off excess pressure during shifting & send it to the inlet of the turbo via the hose/ pipe between the AFM & compressor inlet...very easy! If you run a BOV on a car w/ an AFM, it will stutter from a rich condition shorly after shifting gears...not good. So, do some searching on the differences in plumbing, performance, & placement of the bypass valve. You can pick tthese up on E-bay or at a salvage yard for $20 or less from MANY oem turbo cars or buy an adjustable to tailor to your level. In short: Blow Off Valve for MAP EFI, Compressor Bypass Valve for MAF or AFM cars. Hope this helps!

[RTz]

Only "Sensors" you really need are;

o2

AFM

Head temp

Water temp

TPS (which really only works at idle to bring the timing at a good spot to idle.)

 

 

I assume you're talking about a factory turbo ECU? If so, there is no water temp sensor, the TPS does more than you suggest, and a CAS sensor is mandatory.

[PanzerAce]

One thing I hven't seen mentioned yet is the fuel pump. If it is out of a 260Z, then that means (IIRC), that it will NOT work with a fuel injection setup. The purpose of those pumps was to prevent people from vapor locking their carbs, and as such only give a few lbs of pressure.

[FlatBlack]

Read through this if you want a quick run down on all of the individual components you need for the swap:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

[Mikez31ss]

Read through this if you want a quick run down on all of the individual components you need for the swap:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

 

Thank you sir, I'll read that. At my own risk of course

[lwood240z]

You need a 1" pipe plug from a hardware store to plug where the BOV is mounted in the intake. My advice is to remove it & plug it....it's pretty useless except in a "stock" level overboost situation (8-9 psi). Then you will need a compressor bypass valve mounted as close to throttle body as possible to blow off excess pressure during shifting & send it to the inlet of the turbo via the hose/ pipe between the AFM & compressor inlet...very easy! If you run a BOV on a car w/ an AFM, it will stutter from a rich condition shorly after shifting gears...not good. So, do some searching on the differences in plumbing, performance, & placement of the bypass valve. You can pick tthese up on E-bay or at a salvage yard for $20 or less from MANY oem turbo cars or buy an adjustable to tailor to your level. In short: Blow Off Valve for MAP EFI, Compressor Bypass Valve for MAF or AFM cars. Hope this helps!

 

I just looked online at some different bypass and blow-off valves. Apparently they are really the same thing, it just depends on if you let the air blow-off into the atmosphere or if you connect a hose to the inlet and re-circulate. So, I am planning on getting the turbo upgrade computer from Motorsport Auto, I assume I will still have to use an air-flow-meter. If so, then I need to bypass instead of just blowing off? Correct me if I am wrong please, thank you.

[FlatBlack]

I just looked online at some different bypass and blow-off valves. Apparently they are really the same thing, it just depends on if you let the air blow-off into the atmosphere or if you connect a hose to the inlet and re-circulate. So, I am planning on getting the turbo upgrade computer from Motorsport Auto, I assume I will still have to use an air-flow-meter. If so, then I need to bypass instead of just blowing off? Correct me if I am wrong please, thank you.

 

Are you reading all of these posts thoroughly and carefully? It's for this very reason that new people get yelled at for not searching and asking for easily found answers. Nosebleed already posted this:

 

In short: Blow Off Valve for MAP EFI, Compressor Bypass Valve for MAF or AFM cars. Hope this helps!

 

You can't blow off on a AFM or MAF system. You'll need to recirculate.

 

For the price of that MSA computer you could have a full stand alone... What are your power goals? I read 12 psi earlier but I don't really think you have a full plan yet.

 

If you start buying parts without having a well laid out plan it's going to get very expensive.

[lwood240z]

Are you reading all of these posts thoroughly and carefully? It's for this very reason that new people get yelled at for not searching and asking for easily found answers. Nosebleed already posted this:

 

 

 

You can't blow off on a AFM or MAF system. You'll need to recirculate.

 

For the price of that MSA computer you could have a full stand alone... What are your power goals? I read 12 psi earlier but I don't really think you have a full plan yet.

 

If you start buying parts without having a well laid out plan it's going to get very expensive.

 

 

What do you recommend? I just purchased a used AFM/MAF thinking that I needed it, but obviously I do not need that. What computer system should I look into, the one you have or a different one. Basically, I am trying to get the max out of a stock turbo, until I can upgrade that, I figured that 12psi was probably about the range. What is the max efficiency of a stock turbo? I just bought an intercooler, small but used and cheap from stock mazda turbo. Any info. is much appreciated. This project is not going in any time soon. I want to spend time to make sure I modify everything properly, while keeping under my current budget. One more thing, how many people are doing the same thing as me, a lot. So, please don't get angry at me, there is a lot of s--t to read and I get lost sometimes trying to figure everything out. If I was done and knew everything, then I would post the answers for anybody, cause that is what we are all here for, but I am not done. Why not just tell someone the answer, if your there already looking at the thread, instead of making them search? Just curious