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Doing Your Own Alignment


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For those of you who do you own alignment and set up, what tools are you using? I have a Longacre caster camber tool that attaches to the front wheel or hub and then I use a plumb bob to find the center of the car. From that center line, I pull measurements to each side and then mark tape placed on my floor for reference. Mark posted that he used a laser pointer to help with his set up. What type of laser devices are being used? How are they being used? I would like for this post to evolve into a "how to better and easier do your own alignment and set up". I know there are some smart people at Hybrid Z who have been there and done that and I would like to hear from them.

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If you have a level floor to start with you are in good shape. I actually check my camber with a level against the rim flanges. Then I calculate using trig. You can get a digital level that will give you measurements instantly. I use a tape measure to set front toe with the steering wheel at center lock. Then take a drive and observe the steering wheel angle on a straight level road. Come back and adjust both end links the same way the steering wheel pointed. It usually takes one or two trys.

 

Once you establish a few lines around the car with string or laser you can measure points to the rims and use trig to get all of your angles. The reference lines must be parallel to the car centerline and vertical. That's the hard part.

 

One crude way to check front toe, quick and dirty, is to press a broom handle to the front wheel and eyeball it to the rockers on each side. Believe it or not, it gets you pretty close. Make it even on both sides with the steering on center lock.

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Two 1 1/4" square .125" wall five foot long steel tubes welded to a 3" round tube that's welded to a palte that bolts to the rear wheel hub. I don't have them here (someone borrowed them a couple months ago) to take a picture.

 

I bolt them to the wheel hub with the long bars pointing forward, level them, and the measure to a vertical point under the sill pate to make sure the thrust angle is correct. It was a quick way to check at the track. In the shop I just string the car.

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Two 1 1/4" square .125" wall five foot long steel tubes welded to a 3" round tube that's welded to a palte that bolts to the rear wheel hub. I don't have them here (someone borrowed them a couple months ago) to take a picture.

 

I bolt them to the wheel hub with the long bars pointing forward, level them, and the measure to a vertical point under the sill pate to make sure the thrust angle is correct. It was a quick way to check at the track. In the shop I just string the car.

 

John, (or others)

Could you fill us in on thrust angle and the importance of it? How does thrust angle relate to toe? I realize that the floor surface being used needs to be level and the laser level could be used for that purpose. How else is the laser level being used? Do you use a laser that provides lines that would be used like the strings would be used to measure toe?

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Thrust angle is the deviation from straight ahead on the rear tires. You could in theory have the wheels totally parallel, but facing to the right 5 degrees, and the car would crab down the road (see old Volvos). Thrust angle shows you that regardless of the toe, the tires are pointed straight.

 

Strings negate the need for the bars he's talking about because you measure from the string to the tire and that string is straight, so by verifying that you have the same measurement on each side of the car, you know that the thrust angle is good.

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Thrust is toe.

 

No, its more then that. Thrust angle is the direction the car travels in relation to the vehicle centerline. You can have perfect toe numbers front and rear and the car can still crab. Incorrect thrust angle increases rolling resistance, creates asymetric handling behavior, affects tire temps, creates bind in the struts, and increases tire and suspension wear.

 

Setting the rear thrust angle is a pretty important thing to do on a S30. The first things is to make sure the rear LCAs are perpendicular to the vehicle centerline at ride height and a couple inches up and down from ride height. Once that's established you can set rear toe.

 

For the front its important to make sure the front LCAs move through the same arc and remain perpendicular to the vehicle centerline at ride height and for a couple inches above and below. Its also important to center the steering rack within its range of travel and then lock it down while toe is set.

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FYI... in the Smart Strings example above your initial setup should be to the wheel hubs, not a wheel and tire assembly. Later you can check against the wheel and tire but only after centering the front steering and locking it down.

 

For those that want to learn the basic concept of stringing your car, the Smart Strings owner's manual is great:

 

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfdocs/011410_smartstrings_manual.pdf

Edited by johnc
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creates asymetric handling behavior

 

Or 'corrects' it. Our C4 in SS wouldn't balance the same left to right. The key was running less toe on the driver side and more on the pass side. I concede it's apples & peaches to an S30. I would also say, depending on suspension design and use, it may be beneficial to run asymmetrical toe. That's what I mean by thrust. It's easier for simple minds to grasp :wink:

 

 

FYI... in the Smart Strings example above your initial setup should be to the wheel hubs, not a wheel and tire assembly.

 

Absolutely.

Edited by RTz
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Our C4 in SS wouldn't balance the same left to right.

 

Are you referring to corner balancing or front/rear handling balance? If the former, the car has problems if toe changes affect corner weights. if the latter - well... what I'm describing is how you set the car up initially so everything is square. What happens later depends on driver feel and lap times. Asymmetric setups are pretty common for specific tracks.

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if the latter - well... what I'm describing is how you set the car up initially so everything is square. What happens later depends on driver feel and lap times. Asymmetric setups are pretty common for specific tracks.

 

Yes, the latter. Agreed, thrust is a principle factor in square. Our car started life square, but handling wasn't balanced. There's only so much that can be done in stock, so one of the compromises made was adding thrust (ie, asymmetric toe).

Edited by RTz
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Ron: I use the same process in that Jack Stands and string is positioned parallel with the rocker panels of my 240Z. Then set the steering wheel straight and set the front toe with a tape, measuring from the front of the tire to the rear of the tire to the string on both sides. Also set camber and caster with a Longacre tool. The car handles and tracks very well.

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If you measure 0 deg toe on the drivers side, and 2 degrees toe in on the pass. side, you end up with a 1 degree thrust line, right?. In my eye's, it's synonymous with saying...

 

Thrust is toe. Toe expressed per side, instead of total.
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