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1977 280z Daily Driven Project


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haha yeah, Im from washington and rain is common..

 

Notsure: yeah, You just gotta know how to drive in the snow :ass:

 

I had it handled after I got out of the parking lot. Biggest problem were the people around me who thought there brakes still worked and just went sliding when they hit them like they normally would. Had a lot of people sliding thru lights and stops signs so I had to pay attention.

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Hey, I have a great question. Injectors. What injectors will swap over without having to tune anything that I could use the stock fuel rail for. If there is a write up that would rock. Maybe Also, I think its my Fuel Pressure I am going to get an external FPR but are there any ways to make the car run a bit more lean. I get backfires alot, Partially because of the the no cat or resonator but I can smell just how rich its running. I may have an exhaust leak though.

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The curve matters way more than the peak numbers. Let's see the scan!

 

Also, did you get a/f numbers from the dyno run? That'll help to let you know if it's the injectors, maf, or something else entirely.

 

I have a spare set of turbo injectors I'd let go of cheaply, if it helps your cause.

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The curve matters way more than the peak numbers. Let's see the scan!

 

Also, did you get a/f numbers from the dyno run? That'll help to let you know if it's the injectors, maf, or something else entirely.

 

I have a spare set of turbo injectors I'd let go of cheaply, if it helps your cause.

 

Wouldn't the turbo injectors make it more rich? This car is N/A lol. I know my injectors are bad. They are all cracked and dry rotted. Then number one was leaking I silicon ed it, kept leaking, now its not so that makes me think the injector quit working so I think I am running on 5 cylinders. I might want to get a new fuel filter and check how the gas tank is looking on the inside. Not sure if it made a difference but I was on 91 octane. I really thought it would have made more.

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Wouldn't the turbo injectors make it more rich? This car is N/A lol. I know my injectors are bad. They are all cracked and dry rotted. Then number one was leaking I silicon ed it, kept leaking, now its not so that makes me think the injector quit working so I think I am running on 5 cylinders. I might want to get a new fuel filter and check how the gas tank is looking on the inside. Not sure if it made a difference but I was on 91 octane. I really thought it would have made more.

 

I'm not really sure how much variance the ECU can accommodate. Hopefully someone with more experience regarding Nissan ECUs can chime in. I know most ecu's will handle larger injectors by simply adjusting their pulse rate. There are definitely tolerances that each ecu can handle, but I don't think the stock vs turbo injectors are all that different. If I remember correctly, the turbo injectors were only ~250cc/min @42psi

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Well, for the price, I think I'd go with the reconditioned n/a injectors here:

http://osidetiger.com/reconditionedinjectors.aspx

I've dealt with osidetiger before and was extremely impressed. Even got a printout of the final output stats of each individual injector. I don't have any affiliation with them, but here's what I thought of the experience. The caps didn't quite fit perfectly over the tips of the injectors, so I ended up just going without caps (they aren't really essential anyway, they just help guide flow if installed correctly). Here's my review, if you're interested in some reading:

http://www.drivendaily.org/news/review/vendor-review-osidetiger-injectors/

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Whats a way to test if injectors are opening and closing and working? I know a shop that will do it but it will be like 27 dollars for 1 injectors. I don't want to spend 150 on all 6 either as I could get those new ones. I found my old 76 injectors and wanted to see if they will work so I can just replace at least the number 1. I think it has completely quit working, but replacing it with a non working injector would be stupid. I was told a 9 volt would work, that did not work. Any other ideas? Thanks.

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So other than tuning my car what advantages would I gain from putting Mega Squirt on my car? I figure mega squirt would help get the car running better and put some more power down. I was also wondering other than not having a Dizzy what EDIS will do for me? Will it free up any more power by taking drag off? I wouldn't think so. Obviously it will get rid of the old school points ignition. Would it be smarter to just go turbo and run the MS with that or would MS on an N/A car really make enough of a difference.

 

EDIT: Are the half shafts rebuildable? My passenger one is going out, if I can put new U-Joints in it then I will just do that with both of them when I do the suspension.

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So other than tuning my car what advantages would I gain from putting Mega Squirt on my car? I figure mega squirt would help get the car running better and put some more power down. I was also wondering other than not having a Dizzy what EDIS will do for me? Will it free up any more power by taking drag off? I wouldn't think so. Obviously it will get rid of the old school points ignition. Would it be smarter to just go turbo and run the MS with that or would MS on an N/A car really make enough of a difference.

 

EDIT: Are the half shafts rebuildable? My passenger one is going out, if I can put new U-Joints in it then I will just do that with both of them when I do the suspension.

 

customizable ignition maps, reliability, don't have to worry about diztributors..etc

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customizable ignition maps, reliability, don't have to worry about diztributors..etc

 

Yea, I was getting all excited about the idea of getting something like that. Then I went out to just straiten out the pinch and clean up the little bit of rust I though was just a little bit of rust. I think you all know where this is going. It's a sad day, Pics soon

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Megasquirt gains you tuneability. That means mpg, reliability, and power. It'll make a huge difference whether you're n/a or turbo, and assuming you have average mileage gains, it'll pay for itself in around 4,000 miles (20mpg average with stock Nissan ECU vs 40mpg average with a lean setup and a light gas foot using Megasquirt, assuming you spend ~$600 on Megasquirt). Make sure you have access to a wideband o2 sensor, and it's probably a good idea to dedicate a laptop to tuning, at least for a month or two of driving every day.

 

EDIS gains you accuracy and reliability (no rotor/cap assembly, just an optical sensor and a wheel attached to the front of the engine). Timing advance can be dialed in exactly for every rpm/throttle condition possible with Megasquirt if you set up MSnS (megasquirt 'n spark). It's a tried and true combination, and doesn't require a whole lot of work or tools (only one small bit of machining on a lathe is required).

 

I'm doing both at the moment, but don't have all my supplies yet so I haven't posted anything. Braap did an amazing writeup a few years ago about EDIS in his old track car, I'd suggest reading through all of that if you want to understand how it works (and see some really cool timelapse photos of spark plugs firing).

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