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Fuel Rail Losing PSI when car is turned off


beebeecivic

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No, the regulator is hooked to the manifold for a vacuum reference only. It can only be a leak, the regulator, the pump, or the injectors. If it's going back to the tank, check the regulator or the pump. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's any good.

 

After searching the millions of post on hybridz I am suspecting the o-rings on the injectors are leaking. I am going to squirt some soap water to see if that's the case.

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Sir

In mostly all electric fuel pumps there is a check valve. This valve is on the outlet side of the fuel pump itself or screwed into the outlet side of the pump and is part of the outlet fitting. It sounds like this is where your problem is. Some pumps require you to change the whole pump if the check valve goes bad and some require you just to change the valve/outlet fitting itself. The stock Z pump has it built into the fitting but good luck finding just the fitting for sale.

 

pallnet

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Sir

In mostly all electric fuel pumps there is a check valve. This valve is on the outlet side of the fuel pump itself or screwed into the outlet side of the pump and is part of the outlet fitting. It sounds like this is where your problem is. Some pumps require you to change the whole pump if the check valve goes bad and some require you just to change the valve/outlet fitting itself. The stock Z pump has it built into the fitting but good luck finding just the fitting for sale.

 

pallnet

 

 

hey pallnet, the pump is a new Walbro 255. I'll take a look at the pump tomorrow.

 

So the o-ring's are fine?

 

I am out of ideas, I have changed nearly all the vacuum lines and my psi will not build to 36 ; unless I pull the hose from the manifold vac line from the FPR and pinch it, then it will rise.

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Wow that new info on your problem. Sound like you have some serious issues. Here are a few things to look at but knowing what year tank you're running would help because on 240Z tanks the pickup tube inside the tank tends to be obstructed if you get a dent in a certain area of the tank, I have seen this a few times.

1) I would put a FPG inline right after the fuel pump. This will tell you where your problem is (Front or rear of car).

2) If it's in the rear of the car (I.E. low pressure reading after the pump) then I would look at the pump, clog in the pickup tube inside the tank of trash in the tank such as rust buildup. Rust buildup will kill that new pump faster then you can imagine.

3) If the problem is in the front such as good reading in the rear but not in the front then you will want to look at the fuel filter.

4) Keep inmind that the FPR can cause the readings to be low in both areas.

 

If you had O-ring issues then your car would run like crap from a vac leak, it would not have an affect on the fuel pressure.

 

If you had a heavily leaking injector or injector set doing so then when you went to start it back up you most likely would either hydro-lock the engine (DOA) or wash down your piston rings and then you would have a serious hard start issue.

 

pallnet

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Wow that new info on your problem. Sound like you have some serious issues. Here are a few things to look at but knowing what year tank you're running would help because on 240Z tanks the pickup tube inside the tank tends to be obstructed if you get a dent in a certain area of the tank, I have seen this a few times.

1) I would put a FPG inline right after the fuel pump. This will tell you where your problem is (Front or rear of car).

2) If it's in the rear of the car (I.E. low pressure reading after the pump) then I would look at the pump, clog in the pickup tube inside the tank of trash in the tank such as rust buildup. Rust buildup will kill that new pump faster then you can imagine.

3) If the problem is in the front such as good reading in the rear but not in the front then you will want to look at the fuel filter.

4) Keep inmind that the FPR can cause the readings to be low in both areas.

 

If you had O-ring issues then your car would run like crap from a vac leak, it would not have an affect on the fuel pressure.

 

If you had a heavily leaking injector or injector set doing so then when you went to start it back up you most likely would either hydro-lock the engine (DOA) or wash down your piston rings and then you would have a serious hard start issue.

 

pallnet

 

 

hey pallnet thanks for the reply once again.

 

I have a 280z

 

1. So i jus put the guage between pump and hardline?

2. I thought about dropping my tank and taking a look.

3. And fuel filter I took it out and checked it and everything was clean and clear.

 

As for injectors i did the soap and water trick and nothing seemed to be leaking.

 

thanks agian pallnet

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Sir

It sounds like you found your problem. That new pump on the car needs to be removed and back flushed so that you can try to save it. Clean out all of the fuel lines and hoses on the car. Do this by disconnecting them in places so that you can blow high grade fuel then pressureized air through sections to clean out the rust.

pallnet

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I understand that, I have the gauge from filter to rail , when I hit the throttle the PSI drops to about 20psi, and the intake pops (lean)

 

Since you found the tank to be full of rust and your gauge is after the filter, I'm sure the filter is clogged causing the low pressure situation.

 

As Pallnet suggests, drop tank, boil, blow out the fuel lines and pump, and change the filter and you should be back in business.

 

Joe

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Since you found the tank to be full of rust and your gauge is after the filter, I'm sure the filter is clogged causing the low pressure situation.

 

As Pallnet suggests, drop tank, boil, blow out the fuel lines and pump, and change the filter and you should be back in business.

 

Joe

 

 

I hope this is the last thing I have to do (fuel system wise) . I have ran out of ideas! haha..

 

 

thanks again guys!

 

-bee

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3. And fuel filter I took it out and checked it and everything was clean and clear.

Since you found the tank to be full of rust and your gauge is after the filter, I'm sure the filter is clogged causing the low pressure situation.

 

Joe

 

 

Not to bash on you, beebee, but this illustrates a point that cannot be emphasized enough. Fuel filters, at least OE filters on old fuel injected cars with high pressure systems, CANNOT be judged by a simple visual inspection. Unless you are backflushing it with some clear gasoline with some additives, you will frequently see BAD filters flow through pretty clean. I have seen filters that made me think "Well, that can't really be problematic, can it?" and re-installed, only to replace later because they sure were no good.

 

The fact that the filter has been filtering large amounts of particulate matter out for XX hours is one good reason to replace it, and Joe's point brings up another good reason. Chances are a presssure gauge placed inline between pump output and filter inlet would show good pressure, and your nice looking newish fuel filter is the obstruction point.

 

Change the filter; its got crap in it and you want to finish this job and say "I know all that stuff is clean and clear." Fuel system gremlins aren't the ones to ignore...

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Not to bash on you, beebee, but this illustrates a point that cannot be emphasized enough. Fuel filters, at least OE filters on old fuel injected cars with high pressure systems, CANNOT be judged by a simple visual inspection. Unless you are backflushing it with some clear gasoline with some additives, you will frequently see BAD filters flow through pretty clean. I have seen filters that made me think "Well, that can't really be problematic, can it?" and re-installed, only to replace later because they sure were no good.

 

The fact that the filter has been filtering large amounts of particulate matter out for XX hours is one good reason to replace it, and Joe's point brings up another good reason. Chances are a presssure gauge placed inline between pump output and filter inlet would show good pressure, and your nice looking newish fuel filter is the obstruction point.

 

Change the filter; its got crap in it and you want to finish this job and say "I know all that stuff is clean and clear." Fuel system gremlins aren't the ones to ignore...

 

Your not bashing at all, were all here to learna dn its always great to get advice. After the clean tank I am going to clean my lines, replace the filter and finally clean the pump.

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PLEASE take your injectors out and have them reverse flushed if this is a turbo application. Even fine particulates can bypass the filter and lodge in the small screens of the injector inlet. This can cause the car to run lean under high load.

 

I have seen one instance where the fuel filter exploded internally, and the FILTER ELEMENT FIBERS clogged the inlets to the injectors.

 

Was not a problem till above 3500rpm when the stock ECU went from one pulse mode to another and they couldn't flow any more.

 

Rusty tanks kill pumps. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

If you have stock injector hold in scheme, a total new set of big and small injector o-rings costs like $4 at Auto Zone, take em out try to get them reverse flush cleaned, stick some new hoses on them (fuel injection hose only) and put them in with new o-rings. It will give you peace of mind you won't have leak issues down the road from those then!

Good Luck!

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