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Will A Gear reduction starter help my Carbed Z start faster?


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My Z will start right up after a good 5hrs in the hot sun but if I let it sit over night it takes a bit of cranking before it will start. That is what makes me think it is the fuel bowls being dry.

 

@Tony_D -thanks for the lengthy reply. I'm aware that some Z's when the ignition is "on" will use the electric fuel pump to prime the fuel system. I did some light research and didn't find anything saying that an early 260z does.(and mine doesn't) And the FSM leads me to believe it doesn't.

 

 

I will be doing some tests when it is warm enough to start my z(for rust/moisture reasons not lack of being able to). I plan on filling the fuel bowls on a cold start and seeing how that affects the starting. That should give me an idea if i have something from Rolling Parts long list going on or just dry fuel bowls.

 

growing up in the 90's I have never experienced a carbed car before and have no idea what they were like new and functioned properly, so thank you all for your patience.

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If you're still running the Kettering ignition, check your points - if they've closed up your spark will be piss-poor and starting a cold engine needs a good spark.

 

I don't have points. Thanks though. I've got a 280zx dizzy I'm gonna swap in so hopefully that will help.

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  • 3 years later...

Sorry to  bring up a dead topic from so long ago, but where does one find a gear reduction starter for a 76 280Z? Are you guys just using the 280ZX starter? I think thats what I gathered, but wasnt sure, as it doesnt say year that has it. My engine turns over very slow, even when the battery checks out to be ok. I have a yellow top optima battery rated at 750CCA. The compression ratio has been raised on the engine up to 10:1 on a F54 block. I  just moved my 280Z starter over to this new setup rather than get a new starter. Im assuming from the sounds of it I need to get another 'newer' starter.. ?

Edited by AZGhost623
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Where i live in the mountains, it gets about 20 degrees in the morning. Making my block fairly cold in the morning. But i usually just prime the carbs by pressing the gas pedal about 5 times and it starts in a few seconds. I know that usually floods them when the car is actually primed but it gets fuel in there for me when its dry so i'm good with that. But i also have my emergency can of starter fluid which works wonders. I ran out of gas one time because my sensor is broken and it wouldnt start for anything after it ran dry but the starter fluid juiced it right up, and saved me after i had to call a friend and run around with him until i could get to O'reillys. Hopefully you have some already, but if not it works wonders even for my jeep, that sits for 6 months to a year at a time. With no stabilizers.

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That doesn't work on SU carbs, FWIW, but will work on dual webers, 4 barrels, or triples or anything with accelerator pumps. I once had a friendly rival jump in my car at an autox and pump the pedal about 50 times and then jump out and tell me he just flooded my engine. He was pretty shocked when I reached in and turned the key and it fired right up. 

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Where i live in the mountains, it gets about 20 degrees in the morning. Making my block fairly cold in the morning. But i usually just prime the carbs by pressing the gas pedal about 5 times and it starts in a few seconds. I know that usually floods them when the car is actually primed but it gets fuel in there for me when its dry so i'm good with that.

You're running a Holley 390 aren't you? Pumping SU's does absolutely nothing other than show you the linkage doesn't bind...

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