Gollum Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 (edited) So I need some new studs on my turbo manifold and I took the nut with me to verify the size and thread pitch, which was M10 x 1.25. Bought four studs and went on my merry way, just to find out that they don't fit in the manifold... Grrr. The only thing I can think of is that the OEM studs are different pitch on the manifold side than the turbo side. I'm assuming they're a M10 x 1.50 Does anyone know for certain to save me another trip to the parts store? I'd just pull a stud from my other head/manifold sitting in the garage but I think it'd take explosives and 5' long vice grips. Oh, and if you hadn't guessed, this is on a L28ET. Stock manifold, stock turbo. Edited February 26, 2010 by Gollum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben280zx Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Man, I haven't seen you posted lately. I'm assuming you are talking about the Intake manifold and not the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Yea, it's been a while. I'm talking about the output of the exhaust manifold, the studs that the turbo bolts up to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 So, does nobody really have an answer for this? We've got quite the handful of high powered turbo L series around here, and a multitude of lightly modded turbo L cars. Well, I'm gonna bet on my guess of M10 x 1.5 thread. I'll go pick up a pair tomorrow and report back when I get the time to test them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineptitude01 Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I just did this, since I needed longer studs for a spacer. All 280ZX exhaust studs are M10 x 1.5 on the manifold side, and M10 x 1.25 on the turbo side. What I found is that if you're installing the spacer to clear a T3/T4 hybrid, longer studs in that configuration are almost impossible to find. I ended up with 1.5 pitch on both sides, just because of availability. Oh, and don't get these at the dealer. They're just about $10 each, as I remember. Ah, and I got the impression that you haven't attempted the removal yet. Do you have a winning technique to remove the studs? I just did all this, and I can tell you that using a long breaker bar with a pipe over it is an excellent way to snap studs. PB Blaster and an air wrench is a winner every time. WD40 in the hole, chase the thread with a M10 x 1.5 tap, and then you can get the stud in by hand. Easy peasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 There's a large ACE Hardware near me that had these studs when I added the turbo spacer. I'm pretty sure they were 1.25 pitch on one end and 1.50 on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 There's a large ACE Hardware near me that had these studs when I added the turbo spacer. I'm pretty sure they were 1.25 pitch on one end and 1.50 on the other. That's what it looks like to me too. 1.25 on the turbo side of the stud, and 1.5 on the manifold side of the stud. I'll have a definitive answer soon. Thanks for the input guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Suspicions Confirmed!!! So the manifold side of the turbo studs are M10 with a 1.50 thread pitch, while the outside of the studs are M10 with a 1.25 thread pitch. You can easily replace these with an exhaust stud with that's a M10 with 1.50 on both sides, it'll just be a tad longer. Now hopefully this thread will be able to help someone else down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Definitely will help im about to go through this. Should be getting my stock turbo back with a T04e 50 trim on the compressor side. Did not know i would need a spacer until i started doing some research. What size spacer are you using and where did you get it from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) GM heat valve lubricant liberally applied, and propane torch to heat the manifold. double nut the studs and extract. You will want to replace these studs with a high quality fastener. Too soft and they will stretch, too hard and they will snap. Im an idiot and replace my exhaust fasteners with stainless. I never seem to have any issues with them seizing, stretching, or breaking though. The RB25 exhaust studs are the only ones I ever have issues with these days because I keep using Nissan studs. My L series engines even the turbos have not given me any problems with stainless. I go to the local hardware supply and purchase stainless bolts and machine the heads off. Edited November 14, 2012 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 GM heat valve lubricant liberally applied, and propane torch to heat the manifold. double nut the studs and extract. You will want to replace these studs with a high quality fastener. Too soft and they will stretch, too hard and they will snap. Im an idiot and replace my exhaust fasteners with stainless. I never seem to have any issues with them seizing, stretching, or breaking though. The RB25 exhaust studs are the only ones I ever have issues with these days because I keep using Nissan studs. My L series engines even the turbos have not given me any problems with stainless. I go to the local hardware supply and purchase stainless bolts and machine the heads off. Awesome very good to know. I was going to ask what stud everyone went with but good to know i can just go buy a long grade 8 stainless bolt and cut to length. I ordered locknuts from ATPturbo so hopefully everything will work out... Btw i tried to double nut the studs with just penetrating oil with no dice...looks like im going to have to bring out the heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 I just heated some tie rods out. Amazing what just 60 seconds of a torch can do. I whacked for about an hour, then decided since I was going to reuse the tie rods, just heat'em up. Heated on side and it came off with two good whacks. Did the other side under 5 minutes... Then had a beer to lament over the hour wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I just heated some tie rods out. Amazing what just 60 seconds of a torch can do. I whacked for about an hour, then decided since I was going to reuse the tie rods, just heat'em up. Heated on side and it came off with two good whacks. Did the other side under 5 minutes... Then had a beer to lament over the hour wasted. Haha nice... Just curious what gaskets did everyone go with on the spacers. I had previously ordered a 20$ MSA Nissan exhaust/turbo gasket for my build but did not expect needing a spacer so when i ordered the spacer and lock nuts they had a gasket for 8$ dollars so i ordered one. There cheap gasket is thin and uses a flare to make a seal where as the Nissan is thick and looks like it will crush to make the seal. Any opinions? should i shell out another 20$ for a 2nd Nissan gasket? Have someone weld the spacer on? or stick with the cheap and expensive gasket setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) Use the std OE Nissan turbo gasket for the T3 flange. Penetrating oil for the studs makes a huge difference. If you use something like PB blaster or WD40 it will only soak so far into the metal and stop. Maybe a few mm's. Heating PB with a propane torch is pointless. It will burn right off. GM heat valve lube or mopar equivilent will NOT burn off with the torch on it and it will penitrat deeper. Its designed to penetrate an exhaust manifold made of cast iron and break the steel butterfly in the exhaust loose even if it running and or HOT! Its getting harder to come by, but Ive used to to tear down turbos and exhaust manifolds for years with very good success. The only reason I ever use PB blaster is if someone gives me a can and its all I have. Ive tried many penetrating oils and the ones designed to be used on old exhaust heat valves are the very best for this kind of job. Breaking down those 200K+ mile T3 turbine shells is a royal pain, but this stuff gets the job done. Also another trick is to use "shock therapy" on the nuts. Hit them with a hammer straight down after applying lube and heat. Slowly work the studs back and forth on the way out to prevent damaging the threads inside the cast manifold. At least if you do this you can tell yourself you tried everything and there was nothing you could do in the case that your attempt fails. Sometimes thats just how it goes. Edited November 14, 2012 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Go with the nissan gasket, not taking it apart again is worth the $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Go with the nissan gasket, not taking it apart again is worth the $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) well got all the studs out and going to be purchasing new ones... rayaapp2 suggested using plain ss bolts. What are the stock bolts? Most SS bolts are in the 70,000 strength area where studs are usually in the 120,000 to 150,000. What is the final consensus on this? Go with the Stainless Steel or go with a high strength steel stud. Not trying to say SS wont work just wondering why that choice? Edited November 20, 2012 by Randall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Stainless steel has better high temp properties as it resists rust due to the chromium and nickel in the steel. There are different grades of stainless of course, but in the hardware store you are most likely going to come across 18-8 or the metric equivalent A-2 which means 18% chromium and 8% nickel. These alloys are weaker due to the lower carbon content, but is usually offset due to the corrosion resistant nature of the alloy. Stainless is known to be brittle, which makes it a bad choice for high strength applicaitons, but I don't consider hanging a turbo to be high strenght and should do fine. Now I have a question, what size spacer is used t in stall the T04E 50 trim compressor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 3/8" spacer is needed; a 1/4" will work too. Just did the same installation. The problem with using stainless fasteners in exhaust pipes ISN'T that it's "stainless", it's that stainless steel and aluminum don't play well and tend to gall the aluminum threads. Using stainless steel fasteners to bolt the turbo on is fine, as long as you use the correct nuts (don't use anything but stainless or copper-nickle or brass) otherwise you can run into galvanic corrosion issues. (which is why aluminum and stainless steels don't mix well.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 I used a 1/2" for my Holset, but it may be slightly larger than a T04E housing, it does have a little room to spare, but not a ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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