New Pilot Bearing, Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw Out Bearing

[jacob80]

Hey guys!

 

Well, the time has come to FINALLY put in my ACT sprung six puck stage two clutch with HD pressure plate. I am so excited because when we first installed our spec clutch a year and a half ago, it hasn't been able to hold the power of the car, so I will actually be able to experience it now! Woohoo! But, I do have a few questions before I begin, and perhaps you guys could point me in the right direction. I've done a little searching on the topic, but the search engine isn't the best, and I want an answer specific to the L series motors. All these questions apply to a 1983 L28ET with a 1973 4 speed behind it in a 240z. Here we go:

 

1. When we installed the clutch, a new pilot bearing was installed along with it. What was kind of odd was that we had a HELL of a time putting the input shaft into the crank, almost as if the pilot bearing was too small, but it was the right part. Should the input shaft just slide it, or should you have to wiggle it to all hell like we had to and then pull the transmission and motor together using the bolts that mate them?

 

2. Will I need a new pilot bearing? I know its a good idea, but there is hardly any miles on the bearing. ACT provided me with a new one, so I just wanted to know if its necessary.

 

3. What is the best method to remove the pilot bearing on these motors? I've heard using grease, a puller tool, or even cutting the darn thing. What is the best method?

 

4. How hard will it be to do the entire clutch assembly with the motor in the car?

 

5. Lastly, will I need to support the motor in the rear since I'm dropping the transmission?

 

Thanks guys!

Edited April 6, 2010 by jacob80

[jacob80]

Also just found out that MSA doesn't have my throw out bearing collar I need (go figure). Using a 1973 stock 4 speed behind a 1983 L28ET with a Fidanza flywheel using a 240mm ACT clutch/pressure plate, which of these collars do I need and where can I find one? Thanks!

 

[lowrider]

3. When i removed mine, i used a slide hammer with a washer small enough to fit through and behind the pilot bearing. Then I proceeded to pull it out using the slide hammer.

 

4. It isnt too difficult to put one in with the motor in car. I put a clutch in my car in just under 2 hours, ofcourse i was using a lift but it shouldnt be much more difficult with it on jackstands.

 

5. Indeed you do, or else it will be the death of your motor mounts!

Edited April 6, 2010 by lowrider

[jacob80]

Interesting. Well on that note, are you just placing a Jack on the back of the oil pan? Also, I don't have a slide hammer, but how involved is the grease method?

[lowrider]

Interesting. Well on that note, are you just placing a Jack on the back of the oil pan? Also, I don't have a slide hammer, but how involved is the grease method?

I dont see why you couldnt. I use a ratchet strap connected to the inner fender of either side of the car, and ran under the oil pan.

That i dont know, i personally have never tried it.

[jacob80]

I dont see why you couldnt. I use a ratchet strap connected to the inner fender of either side of the car, and ran under the oil pan.

That i dont know, i personally have never tried it.

 

I am a little worried about potentially crushing the oil pan, rule of thumb tells me to never jack on an oil pan. Perhaps this application would be fine since its already supported in the front.

[lowrider]

I am a little worried about potentially crushing the oil pan, rule of thumb tells me to never jack on an oil pan. Perhaps this application would be fine since its already supported in the front.

It should be fine as long as your not trying to jack the front of the car off the ground with it!

[NewZed]

I am a little worried about potentially crushing the oil pan, rule of thumb tells me to never jack on an oil pan. Perhaps this application would be fine since its already supported in the front.

 

The FSM, for 1976 anyway, says to support the engine at the oil pan when removing the transmission, using a block of wood to distribute the load. I did as directed when replacing my tranny and there were no signs of oil pan damage afterward - leakage, dents or other.

 

On classiczcars.com I saw someone using a piece of 4x4 or 4x6 wedged between the valve cover and firewall to hold the back of the motor up. Have no idea if it will damage anything. It looked easy and convenient though.

[JMortensen]

2x4 behind the valve cover works just fine to hold the motor up.

[jacob80]

Wow, thats nutty! I suppose I'll support it with wood and a jack....hopefully I'll have it out by tonight. Thanks for all of your help on that. As far as the bearing collar, which one do I want if I am using a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with an ACT NX2-HDG6 clutch and a stock 1973 4 speed? I am assuming I will want the second one pictured, but I would like some confirmation here. Thanks!!!

[Nigel]

3. What is the best method to remove the pilot bearing on these motors? I've heard using grease, a puller tool, or even cutting the darn thing. What is the best method?

 

Find a bolt or rod that will slide freely into the pilot bearing, but still be a close fit, then pack the bearing with grease, and finally, tap the bolt into the pilot bearing. The bearing should slide out with a few taps. It's a pretty cool trick.

 

4. How hard will it be to do the entire clutch assembly with the motor in the car?

 

I've R&R'd my transmission many times in my garage without a lift. The trick is to get the car high enough. Once I get the car up, I use a scissor jack with a block of wood on it under the oil pan so that the engine angle can be adjusted (you'll have to put a cinder block or something under the scissor jack to get it high enough. Never use cinder block for supporting the weight of the car though). That makes lining up the engine and trans easier. I've used a hydraulic floor jack to get the trans in and out. I added a couple of angle brackets to a flat floor jack cradle to keep the transmission stable.

 

 

I've done it with a regular cup cradle on the floor jack as well, but it can get pretty dicey. I don't recommend it. Scissor jacks for transmission and differentials, like the one below are awesome. I've borrowed one from a friend a few times, and it makes R&R so much easier.

 

 

I'm not sure where you can get them in the States. Harbor Freight probably.

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

[jacob80]

Awesome!! Thanks for that great writeup! I just visited Harbor Freight's website and it looks like they sell one for $80! Yeehaw!!

[JMortensen]

There is a little nub that sticks down off the bottom of the trans. Put the cup of any regular hydraulic floor jack under that nub and the transmission will balance on it. Lower the jack, and then slide the trans off of it and push it off to one side to replace your clutch. Reverse to reinstall, no special tranny jack needed.

[jacob80]

Awesome! Okay, I just found a throw out bearing collar with part number: 30501-1C104, just as Braap sold previously pictured here:

 

 

This one is the second one in line with measurements of 25mm and 35mm (Type B 5 Speed). Will this work for my application???? Thanks!!

[Nigel]

There is a little nub that sticks down off the bottom of the trans. Put the cup of any regular hydraulic floor jack under that nub and the transmission will balance on it. Lower the jack, and then slide the trans off of it and push it off to one side to replace your clutch. Reverse to reinstall, no special tranny jack needed.

 

 

I already mentioned that you can do it this way, but it can be a headache. For one thing, you need a decent sized floor jack, with a large enough cup. Even then, trying to keep 75lbs of transmission balanced, and prevent it from rotating while you try to wrestle it and the floor jack together in and out of position can get pretty frustrating, not to mention dangerous, particularly if your new to this or trying to do it alone.

 

For $80 (they want $180 for the exact same thing up here, and our dollar is even at parity now!), those trans jacks are worth every penny if you ever plan on R&Ring a transmission or diff more than once (they're also handy for R&Ring exhausts). The trans is held secure in a cradle that can be adjusted for angle, the scissor action makes fine height adjustments a piece of cake, and the casters allow you to easily move the transmission in any direction. It makes the whole process so much safer and easier. Unless you're really strapped for cash or never plan to do this again, why not get the right tool for the job? At least see if you can rent one.

[jacob80]

Awesome! Great info guys, thank you! Now how about that throw out bearing collar?

[Nigel]

Awesome! Great info guys, thank you! Now how about that throw out bearing collar?

 

35mm sounds right for the 2+2/Turbo clutch. I know I measured mine once, but I forgot to write down the number. All I have is a picture comparing it to a 240SX collar (they are the same). Probably not much help, but here it is...

 

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

[jacob80]

35mm sounds right for the 2+2/Turbo clutch. I know I measured mine once, but I forgot to write down the number. All I have is a picture comparing it to a 240SX collar (they are the same). Probably not much help, but here it is...

 

 

Nigel

'73 240ZT

 

Ok, cool. I'm doing a little digging right now in the XenonS130 P/N Fiche and this is what I have come up with:

 

 

I don't see this part number in here What does this mean?? Its number 7 on the diagram.

[Nigel]

Ok, cool. I'm doing a little digging right now in the XenonS130 P/N Fiche and this is what I have come up with:

 

I don't see this part number in here What does this mean?? Its number 7 on the diagram.

 

"7" is the key # that you then look up on the list below. There are 4 part numbers listed for item 7:

 

30501 N1600 - 2 seater manual

30501 K0401 - 2 seater manual turbo

30501 K0400 - 2+2 seater manual

30501 K0401 - 2+2 seater manual replacing K0400, and now the same as the 2 seater manual turbo.

 

I also looked up the 240SX collar, and it also has a 30501 K0401 part number.

 

So I gather 30501 K0401 is the part you want?

 

Nigel

[Nigel]

BTW, where did you get that 30501 1C104 part? I don't see it listed for the S130 or S30 cars, and there are 6 part numbers alone for the S30 cars. I'm not saying it won't work, but I'm just curious what it comes off of.

 

Nigel