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1971 240z rb25det build thread


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Best to start a new thread for this as not to clutter up his build thread

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Well I used a diode and it seems to be working perfect. 14 volts all the time. If I turn in accessories it dips for a sec and then goes right back up to 14. Also wired in my safc. Getting a different reading for rpm on the safc than I am on the tach. I'm gonna try adjusting the pulse setting on the tach see if I can get em to match. Will be doing a write up soon.

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It's not a resistor, its a diode. (only allows current to flow in one direction like a check valve). Let me see if its in my thread.

Radio Shack

part number 2761143 its a 3amp 200v diode $1.59

 

Post 79

 

Read This

 

Thanks for the post, I learned something new. Im going to throw one in this weekend and see if it makes a difference.

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Took it out for its 1st trip around the block. Need some help. Here is what is happening.

 

Idle fluctuates from about 7-900 rpm. Not a big deal just checking if this is normal.

 

Here is the real problem. The car seems to be going into limp mode. It sputters and the check engine light comes on at about 2500-3000rpm. I think it might be related to how I have the boost control solenoid hooked up. I have the nipple off the intake manifold goint to a tee. One side of the tee goes to the BOV the other side goes to the top of the boost solenoid. Then the bottom output goes to the nipple on top of the turbo. Would this cause that? What else should I check? Here are pics of how I have it ran.

post-11227-054834800 1320284043_thumb.jpg

post-11227-075781900 1320284044_thumb.jpg

post-11227-022469600 1320284046_thumb.jpg

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Might be a stupid question but I have been doing some reseach on limp mode. Can the car be run without the MAF? Every post I seemed to read said that not connecting the maf will cause limp mode. Can anyone confirm?

 

Confirmed.

 

As for the boost controller, I dont think you have it hooked up right. Mine is hooked up with one end on the pipe after the inter cooler which I had to drill a hole into the pipe and put a barb fitting in it. The other end is on the waste gate actuator. Im getting my vacuum from the plenum. I hooked it up according to the instructions supplied with the GReddy boost controller.

Edited by jakeoster
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Thanks Jake. Ordering a maf now. Should be a green sticker?

 

No, it should be like an orange or redish sticker. Green is for the RB20. If your running stock ecu, you have to make sure that you get the right one or else it isn't going to work.

 

And remember what I said about how the MAF has to be positioned. It is important. Your also going to have to recirc your blow off valve unless you like your car shooting flames out the exhaust and making a loud bang noise when you let off after load in addition to dying while inching forward at stop signs and such. Believe me, these things get very annoying very fast and your car loses efficiency which is not worth the little pssh noise.

Edited by jakeoster
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Ah ok, didn't realize you had a series 1.

 

You should be able to unscrew your little trumpet thing on your bov and I'm pretty sure Greddy includes one you can put on that allows you to slip a vacuum hose on it. Your going to want to run that hose between your MAF and turbo inlet, but it's important to make the bung as close as you can to the turbo inlet away from the MAF in addition to physically angling the bung at like a 30-45* angle towards the turbo inlet then clamp the hose on the bung that runs from the bov. Make sure to leave clearance for the silicon coupler when you put the bung on the intake pipe though or else you won't be able to couple your newly made intake pipe to the turbo inlet. That's the best way to do it.

Edited by jakeoster
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Yup, MAF is important. The bov needs to recirculate that after the maf and before the turbo because that air is "metered". You can hook up the boost wherever really, if you put if right after the turbo you will probably loose a pound or 2 at the manifold, but then again that is what the turbo is actually putting out... no biggy though.

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Thanks guys. I feel so stupid. I've got mixed info in my head from the hundreds of hours of forums I've read. Maf will hopefully be here Monday. I'll figure out how to recirculate the bov also. Thank again guys for the help. I have to get this thing moving. Gotta drive it to my storage place before this Chicago weather gets worse.

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Thanks guys. I feel so stupid. I've got mixed info in my head from the hundreds of hours of forums I've read. Maf will hopefully be here Monday. I'll figure out how to recirculate the bov also. Thank again guys for the help. I have to get this thing moving. Gotta drive it to my storage place before this Chicago weather gets worse.

 

 

I've heard of people putting the MAF right before the throttle body to avoid issues with bov etc. I haven't done it myself because by the time i found out i was already on Microtech ecu with MAP sensor. Maybe you should give it a try?

 

-Bohdan

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I've heard of people putting the MAF right before the throttle body to avoid issues with bov etc. I haven't done it myself because by the time i found out i was already on Microtech ecu with MAP sensor. Maybe you should give it a try?

 

-Bohdan

 

Then on the other though it can be a dumb idea becuase the air that accumulates after the throttle body closes might interfere with the readings.

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Blow through mafs are common setups, just there isn't too much room on the cold side I/C piping to fit a maf

 

If your creative you can incorporate something similar to this

 

http://www.kstech.biz/catalog/2008_MAF_Flange%20010.jpg

 

But at the same time, some of the best builds are results from keeping things simple.

 

And having a draw through maf setup with an OPEN bov doesn't always run like ****.

 

It depends on the BOV and how responsive it is and whether its open or closed at idle.

Edited by mr jdm
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Blow through mafs are common setups, just there isn't too much room on the cold side I/C piping to fit a maf

 

If your creative you can incorporate something similar to this

 

http://www.kstech.biz/catalog/2008_MAF_Flange%20010.jpg

 

But at the same time, some of the best builds are results from keeping things simple.

 

And having a draw through maf setup with an OPEN bov doesn't always run like ****.

 

It depends on the BOV and how responsive it is and whether its open or closed at idle.

 

I've got a dual valve hks one that's closed until it releases pressure and it still has issues. If you want a smooth running car and want to maximize power, don't fool around with the MAF. I got the ricer out of me after driving mine around with an vented bov and it's just not worth it. If you don't want any issues, put the MAF where it's supposed to be and recirc. Wish I would have done these two things from the beginning.

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Blow through mafs are common setups, just there isn't too much room on the cold side I/C piping to fit a maf

 

If your creative you can incorporate something similar to this

 

http://www.kstech.biz/catalog/2008_MAF_Flange%20010.jpg

 

But at the same time, some of the best builds are results from keeping things simple.

 

And having a draw through maf setup with an OPEN bov doesn't always run like ****.

 

It depends on the BOV and how responsive it is and whether its open or closed at idle.

 

I totally agree with you. the whole time i was running MAF my BOV was open, never recirculated, And the car ran just fine. (for a little over a year) then came Microtech :)

 

-Bohdan

Edited by Bohdan
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