ZT-R Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 What is the model of the controller? I would recommend you putting it on the turbo housing or right after the turbo. That way if your charge pipe blows off or something you willnt boost the hell out of your turbo. Typically your will see about another pound or so when you hook it up directly to the intake manifold due to pressure drop and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 I am using an blitz sbc I color Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 I think I figured out my issue with this boost controller. Broken English instructions not so good. I need to pick up some pieces at the local auto parts store. No rush right now. Downpipe went back to McKinney to get refitted. Also waiting on the correct muffler. It looks like its gonna be a few weeks before this thing is back on the street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Just a few pics of what I have been up too. Got my 350z seats installed. Cant weld so had to outsource this one. Paid $120.00 to have the brackets made. Had an intake pipe made while they were at it. Not much here 12" long angled pipe with bung welded on to recirculate the bov. Also farmed this out $100.00 Got a new toy. Have to install this officially. Got it working just have to clean up the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 So I wanted to compile and update a better list of expenses. So some of this stuff is from memory but it should be accurate. Obviously not all this is necessary but it's the direction I want to take my car. Still waiting to get the coilovers in the mail so I can do that write up. Car. $3500.00Chemical stripper from home depot. 1 can about $8.00 rustoleum primer from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00 High heat grilll paint from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00 Rust encapsulator 1 gallon $130.00 Pre 1 gallon $50.00 3/8 tubing kit with cutter, bender, and flare. $87.00 cushion clamps. 2 packs $18.00 -6 tube nuts. 2 packs $6.00 -6 tube sleeves. 2 packs $4.00 -6 adapter fittings. qty 4 $12.00 Tap and die kit. $15.00 cutting oil $5.00 -6 to 3/8npt 90degree $10.0010' stainless braided hose. $40.00 qty 7 an straight hose ends $35.00 qty 4 an 90degree hose ends. $42.00 JEGS 40 micron inline filter $30.00 Carter fuel pump. $70.00 Bosch 044 fuel pump. $180.00 Bosch inlet adapter. $4.00 Bosch outlet adapter. $5.00 PRC radiator - $265.00 spal fan - $150.00 Custom shroud. - $100.00 bracket materials - already had them. Ace hardware weather stripping - $5.00 Ezwiring 21 circuit harness - $185.00 Solder heat shrink and loom - $30.00 welding shut plugs $? friend did it ( thanks Doug.) Eastwood kit $50.00 Acetone $15.00 muratic acid $15.00 Surge tank. $100.00 Dynamat. $200.00 Optional and plenty left for the lid. Alluminum for brackets. $20.00 The following are from Mckinney Motorsports. http://mckinneymotor...+260+280Z+parts Rb25 motor mounts $475.00 intercooler kit. $850.00 Driveshaft. $425.00 exhaust. $550.00 Throttle cable and bracket. $129.00 downpipe. $290.00 Knockoff greddy intake manifold modified for 240z. $300.00 Total for Mckinney parts. $3019.00 Greddy Type Rz BOV http://www.nopi.com/...bpc=345&vv=2246 Type RZ bov $247.00 Rb25 timing kit. http://www.z1motorsp...roducts_id=3813 Greddy Kevlar timing belt Rb tensioner pulley Rb idler pulley Rb timing belt tensioner spring N1 water pump Sold as a kit $356.00 Speedhut gauges. http://www.speedhut...._number-851.htmSold as a package $836.00 Rb25det engine and trans. $1900.00Safc free350z seats, free, brackets $120.00Apexi air filter $70.00Intake pipe $100.00Maf $150.00Fan controller $50.00Master cylinder $140.00sbc I color with a/f box and temperature sender $700.00Greddy oil cooler sandwich adapter. (not installed yet) $170.00Ttt front and rear coilovers $1600.00 next write up Total so far. $14874.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) This is kind of a wish list. My budget for this build is really about $25k. Obviously that is being spread out but that's a number I can swallow. I'm planning on about $5k for paint and bodywork so that leaves me about $5k for the rest. Let me know what you think of the following. Working on a deal for open r200 $150.00I'm gonna need driveshaft modified mustache bar misc parts and pieces for install $500.00Rear axles $600.00LSD $1000.00Rb-rs $800Tires $600Rear brakes $400.00 (maxima kit)Front brakes $400.00 (silvermine)Misc suspension parts ( front lcas, tension rods, bump steer spacers) $550.00 Total $5000.00 these are obviously mostly estimates. But let me know what you think. Am I missing anything? Edited May 20, 2012 by 5thgenluder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Got the front coilovers from ttt. Been working on installing them in my free time. Found some scary stuff. Bolts that hold the strut to the steering arm on the passenger side were barely hand tight. Also the strut bearing on that side was missing. No wonder it was so hard to turn that wheel. New one on the way then an official write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Update. Front coilover install. So I ordered a set of coilovers from ttt and have so far only received the front ones so far. Things started to move a bit quick at the end but I will try to give the best info I can. Here is what I started with. Remove the wheel and here is my stock strut. Remove the tension bar. It has bolts here. and here. Remove the cotter pin and bolt that holds on the tie end rod. Unscrew the other end of the tie rod. Disconnect the brake line. Unbolt the shock from the bottom two bolts. and the top three bolts. Remove the brake caliper by unbolting these 2 bolts. Remove the hub cap. then pull the cotter pin and unscrew the nut. Pull of the brake assembly and you are left with this. Unscrew the 4 screws that hold the brake backing plate on and you have this. Use your pickle fork to remove the tie rod. Rented mine from autozone. I also rented a spring compressor from autozone. Compress the spring and relive the pressure. Use a big screw driver to hold 2 of the bolts on the top of the rubber strut isolator. Undo the bolt on the top of the strut. You are left with this. Here is the new assembly. Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Pretty much the reverse of what we did. Start with the brake plate. I replaced all the wheel bearings. They were nasty and I wanted to freshen everything up. Here is the removal process. . Here us the new stuff going in. I greased and repacked the new bearings. This was a first for me. It consisted of taking a glob of grease putting it on my hand and then taking the bearing and repeatedly tapping it into the glob of grease until the grease came thru the bearing on the other side. Remove the old and repack the center of the hub also. Put the spindle pin washer, bolt, and cotter pin in. Tighten to 22 ft lbs of torque and then turn back 60 degrees then put the pin in. Fill the hub cap 1/4 full then put back on. Reattatch the brakes. So with this kit the rubber upper mount hole needs to be drilled out to 15mm. This hole. Took a pretty big drill and drill bit to do this. So the assembly goes on like this. Spring perch, 2 washers, strut bearing, rubber isolator, then you will need to put a few washers so that the bolt can tighten down. Here is the top that shows the washers. The rest is history. Just put it all back in the way you took it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 I did my tophats like that for a little while. Once i got the camber plates welded it the car handles and rides so much better. the tophats where sloppy. Just something i would have done differently right off the bat but whateves... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Finally got the rears from TTT. Started to put them in. Everything was going smooth and then when trying to remove one of the stub axles I couldnt get the bolt to turn to save the life of me. Needless to say after a lot of frusteration and time I finally got it off only to see a horiblly stripped stub axle. I took it down the street to a restoration shop and the guy said it was long gone. He can retap it cause the damage is past the thread. Here is a pic of the carnage. So I guess my question is. As long as I have to buy a new stub axle are their any upgrades I should do? Are the stock stubs adequate? I had my eye on the wolfcreekracing cv axle kit. Does that replace the stub axles as well. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise Ill just begin the hunt for a replacement stock one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 So I guess my question is. As long as I have to buy a new stub axle are their any upgrades I should do? Are the stock stubs adequate? I had my eye on the wolfcreekracing cv axle kit. Does that replace the stub axles as well. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise Ill just begin the hunt for a replacement stock one. I would just pick up a good used replacement ( 240 or 280?) stub, until you are ready to drop a lot of bucks on a rear upgrade. The rest of your answers are covered many times in the drivetrain forum. http://forums.hybrid.../83-drivetrain/ http://forums.hybrid.../11-drivetrain/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Modern Motorsports had some but Ross seems pretty unreliable these days from what I hear. I put the T3 r230 rear in mine and love it. I did put 4.11 gears from richmond racing gears in it. That combined with cams is a much much more fun car for around my town. That being said you can get the R200 lsd which has the 4.11 to begin with. I would just save up and do the entire rear at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Let us know how those 350z seats work out. I am using parts store seats and they are too wide. Thanks Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Got a replacement stub axle from a guy locally. Took them to a shop to have the bearings removed and pressed. Ordered a desert z rear disk brake conversion kit that I am just going to do while I'm at it. Those are backordered about a week. So my goal is to get this thing back on the road by the end of August. I was getting everything together and had a question. On the fronts I had to drill out the runner isolator. On the rears the d shaped opening fits over the threaded portion of the strut and sits on the ledge. Do I install it like that or do I drill it out to fit over the shock tube again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 Finally got the car back on the road. Got the desert z rear brake kit and rear coilovers installed. Ride is so much better than it was before. Only issue I am having is that the brakes don't bite like they should or did before. I'm guessing that some air got into the system when I pulled the brakes off to do the swap. I think the master cylinder may need to be bench bleed again. What do you guys think? Sound like a reasonable assessment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 If you think you have air in the system try this. Grab an empty/used brake fluid container. drill a hole in the bottom. Install a wheel valve stem seal in the hole(I use the ones with the rubber grommet and a lock nut for old mags). Find an appropriately sized rubber gasket to go around the neck of the container(HELP section PCV grommets at parts store may work). Get your tire air chuck ready. Fill your brake reservoir to the top. Open the rear left or right bleed screw with some kind of appropriate catch. Place the homemade brake container over the full reservoir making sure the seal fits very well. Hold the container FIRMLY to the reservoir and apply low pressure to the valve stem on the top. DO NOT EXCEED 5psi or so or you will have a mess on your hands. 1 psi is actually plenty of pressure for this. Continue to hold the pressurized container over the reservoir until the pressure starts to bleed off or you can see your reservoir getting low. Home-made pressure bleeder. Yes Ive done this. Yes its a permanent tool in my arsenal now and it sure beats having to pay $300 for the kit that still wont fit a Datsun reservoir. I also have a MityVac professional use vacuum bleeder and the pressure bleeder I built is still preferred on my Datsuns. Something about these cars makes it extra hard to properly bleed the system as air gets trapped and the fluid goes right past a bubble. A pressure bleeder will force the bubbles out though... I dont know why, but it just does. In the very least maybe this will give you a chuckle. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Ray. I appreciate the advice. I will give that a try. I actually put about 30 miles on the car yesterday. After about 10 miles the pedal completely transformed. It had pressure much higher in the throw and the brakes finally started to bite. I'm still getting a dragging / squeaking sound out of the rear brakes. It's a swish swish swish sound that changes with speed. I have removed the check valve from my m/c. Made sure the parking brakes has no tension on it. I can turn the rotors by hand. Other than that seems to be running well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Did you bench bleed the master? Sorry havent read all the updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Ztr I did bleed the master. I got a reverse bleeder so I'm going to try and bleed from the calipers back to the master and see if I can get a little more pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Based on my reading I think the swish noise may be related to the bearing install. I am going to try and get that stub axle nut on a little tighter. I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 200 ft lbs so I winged it. I'm going to go rent one from auto zone and see if I can really crank on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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