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1971 240z rb25det build thread


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What is the model of the controller? I would recommend you putting it on the turbo housing or right after the turbo. That way if your charge pipe blows off or something you willnt boost the hell out of your turbo. Typically your will see about another pound or so when you hook it up directly to the intake manifold due to pressure drop and stuff.

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I think I figured out my issue with this boost controller. Broken English instructions not so good. I need to pick up some pieces at the local auto parts store. No rush right now. Downpipe went back to McKinney to get refitted. Also waiting on the correct muffler. It looks like its gonna be a few weeks before this thing is back on the street.

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Just a few pics of what I have been up too.


Got my 350z seats installed. Cant weld so had to outsource this one. Paid $120.00 to have the brackets made.


post-11227-083894900 1336269224_thumb.jpg

post-11227-029080200 1336269248_thumb.jpg


Had an intake pipe made while they were at it. Not much here 12" long angled pipe with bung welded on to recirculate the bov. Also farmed this out $100.00

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post-11227-045483200 1336269276_thumb.jpg


Got a new toy. Have to install this officially. Got it working just have to clean up the wiring.


post-11227-064594900 1336269287_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I wanted to compile and update a better list of expenses. So some of this stuff is from memory but it should be accurate. Obviously not all this is necessary but it's the direction I want to take my car. Still waiting to get the coilovers in the mail so I can do that write up.

Car. $3500.00Chemical stripper from home depot. 1 can about $8.00

rustoleum primer from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00

High heat grilll paint from home depot. 4ish cans $20.00

Rust encapsulator 1 gallon $130.00

Pre 1 gallon $50.00

3/8 tubing kit with cutter, bender, and flare. $87.00

cushion clamps. 2 packs $18.00

-6 tube nuts. 2 packs $6.00

-6 tube sleeves. 2 packs $4.00

-6 adapter fittings. qty 4 $12.00

Tap and die kit. $15.00

cutting oil $5.00

-6 to 3/8npt 90degree $10.0010' stainless braided hose. $40.00

qty 7 an straight hose ends $35.00

qty 4 an 90degree hose ends. $42.00

JEGS 40 micron inline filter $30.00

Carter fuel pump. $70.00

Bosch 044 fuel pump. $180.00

Bosch inlet adapter. $4.00

Bosch outlet adapter. $5.00

PRC radiator - $265.00

spal fan - $150.00

Custom shroud. - $100.00

bracket materials - already had them.

Ace hardware weather stripping - $5.00

Ezwiring 21 circuit harness - $185.00

Solder heat shrink and loom - $30.00

welding shut plugs $? friend did it ( thanks Doug.)

Eastwood kit $50.00

Acetone $15.00

muratic acid $15.00

Surge tank. $100.00

Dynamat. $200.00 Optional and plenty left for the lid.

Alluminum for brackets. $20.00

The following are from Mckinney Motorsports. http://mckinneymotor...+260+280Z+parts

Rb25 motor mounts $475.00

intercooler kit. $850.00

Driveshaft. $425.00

exhaust. $550.00

Throttle cable and bracket. $129.00

downpipe. $290.00

Knockoff greddy intake manifold modified for 240z. $300.00

Total for Mckinney parts. $3019.00

Greddy Type Rz BOV http://www.nopi.com/...bpc=345&vv=2246

Type RZ bov $247.00

Rb25 timing kit. http://www.z1motorsp...roducts_id=3813

Greddy Kevlar timing belt

Rb tensioner pulley

Rb idler pulley

Rb timing belt tensioner spring

N1 water pump

Sold as a kit $356.00

Speedhut gauges. http://www.speedhut...._number-851.htmSold as a package $836.00

Rb25det engine and trans. $1900.00Safc free350z seats, free, brackets $120.00Apexi air filter $70.00Intake pipe $100.00Maf $150.00Fan controller $50.00Master cylinder $140.00sbc I color with a/f box and temperature sender $700.00Greddy oil cooler sandwich adapter. (not installed yet) $170.00Ttt front and rear coilovers $1600.00 next write up Total so far. $14874.00

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This is kind of a wish list. My budget for this build is really about $25k. Obviously that is being spread out but that's a number I can swallow. I'm planning on about $5k for paint and bodywork so that leaves me about $5k for the rest. Let me know what you think of the following.


Working on a deal for open r200 $150.00I'm gonna need driveshaft modified mustache bar misc parts and pieces for install $500.00Rear axles $600.00LSD $1000.00Rb-rs $800Tires $600Rear brakes $400.00 (maxima kit)Front brakes $400.00 (silvermine)Misc suspension parts ( front lcas, tension rods, bump steer spacers) $550.00

Total $5000.00 these are obviously mostly estimates. But let me know what you think. Am I missing anything?

Edited by 5thgenluder
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the front coilovers from ttt. Been working on installing them in my free time. Found some scary stuff. Bolts that hold the strut to the steering arm on the passenger side were barely hand tight. Also the strut bearing on that side was missing. No wonder it was so hard to turn that wheel. New one on the way then an official write up.

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Update. Front coilover install.



So I ordered a set of coilovers from ttt and have so far only received the front ones so far. Things started to move a bit quick at the end but I will try to give the best info I can.


Here is what I started with. post-11227-066963200 1338697492_thumb.jpg


Remove the wheel and here is my stock strut. post-11227-082553300 1338697497_thumb.jpg


Remove the tension bar. It has bolts here.post-11227-010845900 1338697500_thumb.jpg and here. post-11227-012159200 1338697502_thumb.jpg



Remove the cotter pin and bolt that holds on the tie end rod. post-11227-077871100 1338697504_thumb.jpg


Unscrew the other end of the tie rod. post-11227-088523600 1338697506_thumb.jpg


Disconnect the brake line. post-11227-013751300 1338697509_thumb.jpg


Unbolt the shock from the bottom two bolts. post-11227-003296300 1338697529_thumb.jpg and the top three bolts. post-11227-048712700 1338697531_thumb.jpg


Remove the brake caliper by unbolting these 2 bolts. post-11227-053132400 1338697533_thumb.jpg


Remove the hub cap.post-11227-002776500 1338697536_thumb.jpg then pull the cotter pin and unscrew the nut.


Pull of the brake assembly and you are left with this. post-11227-074744100 1338697540_thumb.jpg


Unscrew the 4 screws that hold the brake backing plate on and you have this. post-11227-025459000 1338697543_thumb.jpg


Use your pickle fork to remove the tie rod. Rented mine from autozone. post-11227-023415200 1338697583_thumb.jpg


I also rented a spring compressor from autozone. Compress the spring and relive the pressure. post-11227-030534600 1338697589_thumb.jpg


Use a big screw driver to hold 2 of the bolts on the top of the rubber strut isolator. Undo the bolt on the top of the strut. You are left with this. post-11227-047391900 1338697592_thumb.jpg


Here is the new assembly. post-11227-084460000 1338697594_thumb.jpg


Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Pretty much the reverse of what we did. Start with the brake plate. post-11227-063233200 1338697596_thumb.jpg


I replaced all the wheel bearings. They were nasty and I wanted to freshen everything up. Here is the removal process. post-11227-090455000 1338697598_thumb.jpg post-11227-025503600 1338697601_thumb.jpg


Here us the new stuff going in. post-11227-072996900 1338697620_thumb.jpg post-11227-095240200 1338697624_thumb.jpg


I greased and repacked the new bearings. This was a first for me. It consisted of taking a glob of grease putting it on my hand and then taking the bearing and repeatedly tapping it into the glob of grease until the grease came thru the bearing on the other side. Remove the old and repack the center of the hub also. Put the spindle pin washer, bolt, and cotter pin in. Tighten to 22 ft lbs of torque and then turn back 60 degrees then put the pin in. Fill the hub cap 1/4 full then put back on. post-11227-002968800 1338697628_thumb.jpg


Reattatch the brakes. post-11227-060924000 1338697630_thumb.jpg


So with this kit the rubber upper mount hole needs to be drilled out to 15mm. This hole. post-11227-055311700 1338697633_thumb.jpg


Took a pretty big drill and drill bit to do this. post-11227-038743200 1338697637_thumb.jpg


So the assembly goes on like this. Spring perch, 2 washers, strut bearing, rubber isolator, then you will need to put a few washers so that the bolt can tighten down. post-11227-023922800 1338697640_thumb.jpg Here is the top that shows the washers. post-11227-061320400 1338697642_thumb.jpg


The rest is history. Just put it all back in the way you took it all out.

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post-11227-037259200 1338697545_thumb.jpg

post-11227-012157300 1338697586_thumb.jpg

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I did my tophats like that for a little while. Once i got the camber plates welded it the car handles and rides so much better. the tophats where sloppy. Just something i would have done differently right off the bat but whateves...

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the rears from TTT. Started to put them in. Everything was going smooth and then when trying to remove one of the stub axles I couldnt get the bolt to turn to save the life of me. Needless to say after a lot of frusteration and time I finally got it off only to see a horiblly stripped stub axle. I took it down the street to a restoration shop and the guy said it was long gone. He can retap it cause the damage is past the thread. Here is a pic of the carnage. post-11227-093452700 1343434212_thumb.jpg


So I guess my question is. As long as I have to buy a new stub axle are their any upgrades I should do? Are the stock stubs adequate? I had my eye on the wolfcreekracing cv axle kit. Does that replace the stub axles as well. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise Ill just begin the hunt for a replacement stock one.

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So I guess my question is. As long as I have to buy a new stub axle are their any upgrades I should do? Are the stock stubs adequate? I had my eye on the wolfcreekracing cv axle kit. Does that replace the stub axles as well. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise Ill just begin the hunt for a replacement stock one.



I would just pick up a good used replacement ( 240 or 280?) stub, until you are ready to drop a lot of bucks on a rear upgrade.


The rest of your answers are covered many times in the drivetrain forum.



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Modern Motorsports had some but Ross seems pretty unreliable these days from what I hear. I put the T3 r230 rear in mine and love it. I did put 4.11 gears from richmond racing gears in it. That combined with cams is a much much more fun car for around my town. That being said you can get the R200 lsd which has the 4.11 to begin with. I would just save up and do the entire rear at some point.

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Got a replacement stub axle from a guy locally. Took them to a shop to have the bearings removed and pressed. Ordered a desert z rear disk brake conversion kit that I am just going to do while I'm at it. Those are backordered about a week. So my goal is to get this thing back on the road by the end of August. I was getting everything together and had a question. On the fronts I had to drill out the runner isolator. On the rears the d shaped opening fits over the threaded portion of the strut and sits on the ledge. Do I install it like that or do I drill it out to fit over the shock tube again?

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the car back on the road. Got the desert z rear brake kit and rear coilovers installed. Ride is so much better than it was before. Only issue I am having is that the brakes don't bite like they should or did before. I'm guessing that some air got into the system when I pulled the brakes off to do the swap. I think the master cylinder may need to be bench bleed again. What do you guys think? Sound like a reasonable assessment?

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If you think you have air in the system try this.


Grab an empty/used brake fluid container. drill a hole in the bottom. Install a wheel valve stem seal in the hole(I use the ones with the rubber grommet and a lock nut for old mags). Find an appropriately sized rubber gasket to go around the neck of the container(HELP section PCV grommets at parts store may work). Get your tire air chuck ready. Fill your brake reservoir to the top. Open the rear left or right bleed screw with some kind of appropriate catch. Place the homemade brake container over the full reservoir making sure the seal fits very well. Hold the container FIRMLY to the reservoir and apply low pressure to the valve stem on the top. DO NOT EXCEED 5psi or so or you will have a mess on your hands. 1 psi is actually plenty of pressure for this. Continue to hold the pressurized container over the reservoir until the pressure starts to bleed off or you can see your reservoir getting low.


Home-made pressure bleeder. Yes Ive done this. Yes its a permanent tool in my arsenal now and it sure beats having to pay $300 for the kit that still wont fit a Datsun reservoir. I also have a MityVac professional use vacuum bleeder and the pressure bleeder I built is still preferred on my Datsuns. Something about these cars makes it extra hard to properly bleed the system as air gets trapped and the fluid goes right past a bubble. A pressure bleeder will force the bubbles out though... I dont know why, but it just does.


In the very least maybe this will give you a chuckle.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Ray. I appreciate the advice. I will give that a try. I actually put about 30 miles on the car yesterday. After about 10 miles the pedal completely transformed. It had pressure much higher in the throw and the brakes finally started to bite. I'm still getting a dragging / squeaking sound out of the rear brakes. It's a swish swish swish sound that changes with speed. I have removed the check valve from my m/c. Made sure the parking brakes has no tension on it. I can turn the rotors by hand. Other than that seems to be running well.

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Based on my reading I think the swish noise may be related to the bearing install. I am going to try and get that stub axle nut on a little tighter. I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 200 ft lbs so I winged it. I'm going to go rent one from auto zone and see if I can really crank on it.

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