bmr89 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Been running fine and then Bam! Tried starting it up the next day and no power at all. No dome lights, headlights, nothing at all. Here's what I have checked. -battery is fine. -terminal heads are clean and not corroded - terminal wires both positive and negative are connected tightly -all grounds are tight - I checked the fuseable links and 2 were kinda melted so I replaced them (still didn't work after replaced, still no power) I'm at a loss on where to go from here. Please if anyone has ran into the same problem with their 240 or 260z and can give me some advice or tips id appreciate it. This electrical stuff isn't my strong suit. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Keep following that melted wire looks like you probaly melt something else where. You also have to figure out why it melted seems like couple of wires were touching shorting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 I followed it but it goes straight out through the firewall into the engine bay...hmm nothing seems to be melted out here yet everything is sheilded. Should I maybe run all new positive and negative wires from the battery and all new grounds and see if that works? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 (edited) How did you test the battery? Did you check both ends of the battery cables or just the end on the battery? Edited February 17, 2011 by mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Mark I checked the battery by accidentally grounding it out and sparks flew haha plus I put it in another car and it ran fine. As far as the terminal wires. I just replaced both wires completely with new ones and still no power running into the car :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 You will need to trace the power circuits with a volt meter or test light. Check to see if your fuse box melted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 thanks for the diagram miles, so i replaced the ignition switch thinking that was the problem and it didnt work i still have no power. i grounded out the starter to see if it would kick over and yeah she turned alright, so i know its something after the starter in the main harness. i couldnt find the main relay fuse for the car though. where is the fuse block located? and or if the Forecast relay fuse is blown out could this be the problem? thanks guys for the help so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 The fuse block is located below the radio under a flip up door. Relays are on the right side kick panel. Check the fuses and the plastic fuse block noting any wire(s) associated with any spot that is melted. Are there any blown fuses or signs of melting on the fuse block? With the ignition switch on are you getting any power to the fuseblock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I once found a wire bundle connector that was running through the firewall was corroded enough to cause that same problem. Just unplugging it and plugging it back in fixed. Waddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Well I pulled the dash out and disconnected the wiring harness. I cut through the tape and noticed the main ground wire was severely melted in a bunch of spots. So I bought some new 10 gauge wire and replaced about 8 feet or so worth of new grounds and connections. I put the harness back in the car, hooked everything back up and still no power haha. I haven't yet checked power on the fuseblock to see if it's getting juice but today I will with my friends voltmeter. I'm not really sure what the hell the problem is but it sure is a headache! Maybe the ignition lock and key went bad?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Sounds like your going through nearly the exact same thing as me. My ground wire was fried from the start of the harness to the gauges, I replaced it and it wouldnt start, then I realized I didnt have the accessory relay attached to the body (it grounds itself?) when I went to restart it, it did nothing. I attached it and cleaned the ground between firewall and the battery. and it started right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aero Z Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 (edited) While you have your voltmeter check the big fat wire where it comes into the fuse block; if its not getting power check the big fat wire that connects to the + starter solenoid and harness. Mine came loose/broke away at that connection. That white wire should also have its own M/F single connector near the dash/firewall wiring harness so check there if its connected ok at the starter terminal. Your key switch probably ok because you would still have headlights, dome lights, hazards etc. Edited March 23, 2011 by Aero Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 -Spitsnaugle Where is the eccessary relay located and what does it look like? i can look into that here in a little while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 -Spitsnaugle Where is the eccessary relay located and what does it look like? i can look into that here in a little while Miles circled it in red above. Heres a couple reference pictures I took when taking apart my harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 What should I have for ohm resistance on the accessory relay. So I can determin if it's faulty, do you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Figured out the problem guys..seems as though my voltmeter gauge has both main power wires connected to the back of it, each on it's own threaded stud, the solid thick white wire, and the thick white wire with the red stripe on it, are the wires. While connected, and grounded, the gauge completes the circuit for constant power it seems. But while mine was connected it would not work, so I took them both off the gauge completely, and connected them straight together and BAM. Dome light turned on and the car lives once again! I'm going to get a new gauge to replace the old one, and run switched power to it. It used to run off the main two power wires previously connected. Thank you guys for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Figured out the problem guys..seems as though my voltmeter gauge has both main power wires connected to the back of it, each on it's own threaded stud, the solid thick white wire, and the thick white wire with the red stripe on it, are the wires. While connected, and grounded, the gauge completes the circuit for constant power it seems. But while mine was connected it would not work, so I took them both off the gauge completely, and connected them straight together and BAM. Dome light turned on and the car lives once again! I'm going to get a new gauge to replace the old one, and run switched power to it. It used to run off the main two power wires previously connected. Thank you guys for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) No voltage gauge on the 240Z. The 240Z has an amp gauge which the power is routed through (those thick white, white/red wires). Inside the amp gauge the power goes through a thick copper bar. What happens is that copper bar melts if there is a direct short in the circuits those white, white/red wires feed. I found that copper bar inside the amp gauge melted on the first 240Z I bought. To avoid that melted gauge problem some 240Z owners just do what you did and just bolt the wires together that connect to the amp meter. There must be some reason that the amp gauge failed. That is, there may still be a short in the wiring you need to find. Congrats, you are now 240Z electrician. Edited March 24, 2011 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmr89 Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 Haha yeah miles thanks, idk why I said volt meter lol. But the ground wires all fried when I arched the battery, so I'm thinking the alternator is also on the fritz and is overjuicing my power wires, that might be how the gauge took a crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaZeS30 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) Wait, what? I thought those wires were different polarity, i.e. the all white one is ground, the white/red is positive? Guess I'll have to loop them together. I am in the process of moving any and all connections from the alternator to the stock wire-harness to the bat+, fusing it with a 70amp fuse and just running the alternator to bat+. I can do that because the alternator I'm using is self-exciting. Edited March 24, 2011 by kamikaZeS30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.