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LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread


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As someone who went through this exercise a few months ago with my RHD I thought I might offer a couple of comments.

 

Fitting ANY longtube headers on an LSx/S30 is a VERY difficult exercise and in all likelihood there will have to be compromises made. There will be minimal clearance and thus the issue of heat transfer to the shell, starter motor, oil filter, etc, will arise (NOTE: make sure the car being fitted with the prototype has the heat shield on the started motor). Make sure the fabricator maximizes ground clearance; this is an area where you should be getting measurements not merely photos. Also make sure equal lenght primaries are being achieved. I dropped into the shop every second day for six weeks to make sure all my concerns were being addressed. Also request that the headers can be removed without the engine having to be moved or worse, removed.

 

You should also have the JCI a/c compresoor mounted on the prototype car to ensure access to spark plug #1 with its heat shield is maintained.

 

I will be amazed if they can be made to suit any other mounts, as well as JCI - there just isn't the sort of space available for such options.

 

I wish you well. Send me a PM if there is anything you think I can assist with.

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thanks for the input. I have an Autokraft oil pan, so the sump is larger than a stock f body pan, so that should allow for some more room with a stock pan. I don't know for sure, but I'll be sure to voice all concerns when I speak with the builder

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just received an email/txt from josey-successfully delivered the sunnyz to the fabrication shop and is enroute home again. quote "just left the shop and having seen their work first hand, I feel 100% confident they can deliver...".

 

we'll continue to post updates!

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  • 2 weeks later...

just received an email/txt from josey-successfully delivered the sunnyz to the fabrication shop and is enroute home again. quote "just left the shop and having seen their work first hand, I feel 100% confident they can deliver...".

 

we'll continue to post updates!

 

 

Whats the latest on the Prototypes?

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spoke with them wednesday. they planned [on paper] the routing, etc of the tubing. ordered the mandrel bends in mild steel [saves me a few $, as i'm covering the proto cost] which should arrive early this coming week. then build protos and check fitment and our other points of concern; spark plug access, installation, ground clearance, etc.

 

i am as anxious as much as anyone...

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UPDATE:

 

I've been in touch with the builder lately, and he was able to complete the driver's side today, and hopefully the passenger's side tomorrow. Here are the pictures he sent me today:

 

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"only the steering shaft must be removed to install"

 

enjoy! :D

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I'm trying to assist here but if you think I'm out of place please let me know.

 

I can't tell for sure but are all the primaries on the engine side of the steering shaft, if so, that might be restricting the ability to get equal lengths. I found it easier to pass the shaft through (two either side - RHD) as there is very little involved in removing the lower section of the steering shaft to fit or remove the headers - let's face it, how many times are you going to do it.

 

I've also included a photo of equal length (approx) headers. I appreciate the LHD and RHD issues but it may assist.

 

I had to fight my guy all the way to ensure I got what I wanted.

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boy from oz, not out of place at all. in fact, i for one very much appreciate your input-especially when you consider your perspective-you are one who has "been there and done that" with the headers.

 

couple of notes; these are prototypes-not finished product. i've already [last night at 11pm] emailed the builder with the concerns above; equal length [or as close as possible], proximity of header to brake lines & steering coupler [will be better with the ss as their radius is tighter] and ground clearance.

 

he explained that he also designed the header with the ability to pull the trans w/o removing the headers. i suggested that i felt we would trade that for more ground clearance & space between the header & brake lines/steer coupler.

 

i'm assuming most of us are running the stock lsx oil pan-which i know is the lowest point on the front end of my z.

 

so, this is the first stab at the left [driver side] header. we're learning and providing feedback for the builder so our headers will meet our goals; long tubes, [close to] equal length, spark plug & mounting bolt clearance, ability to install/remove headers w/o removing the engine, more power and ground clearance.

 

please, if you have suggestions/comments keep them factual with the premise of helping to improve the design for us all.

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I like the idea of placing the steering shaft through the header to get it to be equal length. As it looks right now, it is sitting to close to the coupler. With engine movement and an engine mount going bad (pasn side rubber gm part), I would like a little more room for error. I do realize in installing it the way suggested may cause one small issue. When removing the trans, the headers will have to be removed - meaning the driver side header may need to be taken out completely which may mean you need to undo the steering shaft...something to think about. Or we might be able to unbolt the header and slide it around to remove the trans.

 

As for the flange location, I was running a 3'' inch SS exhaust on my car that was very well made and tucked under the car. I still managed to scrap the exhaust on speed bumps, pulling into slightly steep driveways and such. Something else to keep in mind. We don't want to be tearing up brand new SS headers :D

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I agree with boy from oz we need to get what we are paying for not setteling , if I remenber this is what I signed up for

 

* 36" equal-length primaries

* 16 ga (industry standard) T304 stainless steel, mandrel bends

* 1.75" primary tubes all Tig welded

* 3/8" thick, stainless steel flanges

* 3†open collector-straight pipe [see v-band option below]

* sufficient clearance for spark plug access

* designed to fit the johns cars engine / trans mounts, 70-78 s30's

* new header bolts

* new oem Multi Layer Steel (MLS) exhaust gaskets

* oxygen sensor bungs welded into collector (1 per header)

* prototype set built using donor car supplied by sunnyz

* approximate 4 week time to build prototype pair

* 4 weeks to build group buy header run once prototype is completed

* price; $825/ pair, including all above

 

@ $825 per pair I would rather not settle for anything less

 

I built these headers and understand it's no easy task which is exactly why I am willing to wait

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i have, along with sunnyz, provided feedback from this thread, supplied pics of my z, spoken with and emailed the builder to express our desires and ensure they are build to the original design goals and will continue to do so until the production run is complete.

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I agree with boy from oz we need to get what we are paying for not setteling , if I remenber this is what I signed up for

 

* 36" equal-length primaries

* 16 ga (industry standard) T304 stainless steel, mandrel bends

* 1.75" primary tubes all Tig welded

* 3/8" thick, stainless steel flanges

* 3†open collector-straight pipe [see v-band option below]

* sufficient clearance for spark plug access

* designed to fit the johns cars engine / trans mounts, 70-78 s30's

* new header bolts

* new oem Multi Layer Steel (MLS) exhaust gaskets

* oxygen sensor bungs welded into collector (1 per header)

* prototype set built using donor car supplied by sunnyz

* approximate 4 week time to build prototype pair

* 4 weeks to build group buy header run once prototype is completed

* price; $825/ pair, including all above

 

@ $825 per pair I would rather not settle for anything less

 

I built these headers and understand it's no easy task which is exactly why I am willing to wait

 

+1

 

Thank you guys for going through this trouble, I know its not easy.

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Right side photo as per PM request. There are some big time differences between us so there might be delays in responses.

 

I don't think it's feasible for the fabricator to take into account the brake lines - there just isn't that much area to play with. I personally wouldn't pursue that issue and accept the fact I would have to re-route the lines. Also I couldn't match up the locations of the collector flange faces and I would suggest the fabricator consider building both sides simultaneously.

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Edited by Boy from Oz
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