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LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread


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As mentioned before, mine was in the exhaust shop for six weeks. I think it's probably best to let the fabricator take his/her time to solve some issues. By now they have realised they are probably not going to make any money on the prototypes at least and they will have plenty of 'remove and replace' jobs waiting in the shop that provide a profit. The more behind they get with the money-making every day jobs the more disenchanted they'll get with this task.

 

I wouldn't put too much pressure on for time but I would keep hammering about the finished job you expect.

 

 

NB. I've just decided to go to the US for the Monterey Car Week - my first time on the West Coast.

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Boy from Oz: take a sweater or a jacket. It is COLD in the evenings in Monterey. I moved to "sunny California" fron Virginia once while I was in the Army and froze my differential off!

 

1tuffz, et al: don't feel any pressure from me on the headers. I will continue my build based on the JTR headers until I hear differently from you. I will keep $1000 set aside so that I am ready to go if a product comes out of your efforts. I am in no hurry-take your time.

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all, just spoke with our fabricator-spent about 40 minutes discussing progress, etc. with him this morning.

 

status; right [passenger] side mild steel proto is complete, left [driver] side is kicking his tail [his words not mine]. the primary challenge is the large 'bar' the john's mount system uses. he feels that he has a solution and told me that by end of next week he expects to have the mild steel proto complete.

 

next step-once the mild steel proto's are complete he'll order ss materials and build the first set-collectors, flanges, complete welds, etc. they will then be test fitted and we'll post pics here so we can all see what the [near] finished product looks like. once we've given our "seal of approval" then i'll provide the fabricators contact information, you'll place/pay deposit for your order and they [ss proto's] are sent off to be manufactured in quantity for our group buy.

 

after the initial gp buy is filled the price will increase-i am unsure at to what it will be.

 

as always, thanks for your patience and remember, i'm in the boat with you.

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Related, but a little off topic. If one uses a high-mount alternator, is the long "bar" on the left side needed for the LS swap, or could one just use the right-side JCI mount system on both sides? This might be a good question for Cable since he has a thread on hgh-mount alternators. I don't know, maybe the long bar is needed to relocate the left engine mount for steering shaft clearance? I'm just thinking about ways to create header room....

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i am using the johns cars 'long' left mount and low alternator position so am not really able to comment. would like to hear from others as this is a valid point. another thought-perhaps the 'long' mount could be modified to allow greater clearance...

 

thanks for posting!

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It is always a challenge to remain focused when working on these cars but if I recall one of the primary goals of this project was to have an off-the-shelf product to suit other off-the-shelf items, e.g. JCI mounts. When you require more changes you may start to lose your customer base and hence the ability to pay less because of the bulk buy.

 

I spent quite a bit of time trying to create a left-side mount similar to the right. This was way before my longtube headers and it was simply because I didn’t like the look of the ‘long’ mount. Like most things it could be done but in my design it required modification to the alternator body and that was defeating a goal on my project to retain as many standard GM components as I can. I don’t want to be stuck miles from anywhere with a broken or damaged specialist component.

 

If you start to relocate the alternator it will cost money and there may be some, like me, who don’t like the look of them mounted up high. Design and manufacture of a new mount will also cost money. If you want to go that way then you might want to consider having your own unique longtubes made(double the price here) but that not only sends you back to square one it actually puts you further behind considering the extra work required… Hang in there guys.

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bfo, thanks-as always for your insight. i'm not a fan of the other than stock alternator position either and am doing my best to exercise patience. i would rather wait longer and have the best outcome than rush and settle for less.

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  • 2 weeks later...

update-driver or left side prototype looks nearly complete, saw a pic this morning and will post [actually sunnyz will] soon.

 

question for you guru's on frame rail dimensions for both 240 & 280. are the length, distance between and such the same on the frame rails from 240 through 280? i ask as the fabricator has one of the tubes fairly close to the frame rail on sunnyz's 280 and wanted to ensure it won't pose any issues when installed on a 240.

 

i'm fairly confident they are the same but wanted to confirm.

 

thanks, david

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builder called me today. both prototype sides are complete [in mild steel] and meet all requirements except; a/t trans and removal of headers to pull trans.

 

i just paypal'd him funds to purchase the stainless materials to build the ss prototypes, once complete we'll post pics in this thread.

 

 

 

next steps; pay for ss materials [done], order ss materials to build ss prototypes [in process], build ss proto's, provide builder contact info for buyers [us] to clarify/place orders & provide deposit, build ss longtubes, ship ss longtubes!

 

builder estimates about 2 weeks until the ss protos are completed. so, get your paypal accounts ready all!

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As much as I dont want to, I need to remove myself from the header build list. I installed a Subaru PS rack along with a TransAm steering shaft. I routed all of my steering linkages straight down and atop the drivers side frame rail. After looking at the pictures I have little doubt that I will have interference issues between the steering linkages and the header tubes as they loop out and over the frame rail. I will just utilize the block huggers that I have currently installed. My 1978 LSx 280Z is off to the exhaust shop monday for a 3" mandrel bent exhaust. Once installed the car will be brought to LG Motorsports in Wylie, TX for a dyno tune. I will snap some pictures and post once the exhaust is complete! Sorry I could not follow through with this.

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no problem- completely understand.

 

update-supplier for mandrel bends was back ordered on the bends that were ordered-finally came in yesterday [we expected them early Last week!]. as a good friend of mine, "everything takes longer than it does"...unfortunately.

 

thanks for your patience [all] as we await our coveted z lsx long tubes

 

As much as I dont want to, I need to remove myself from the header build list. I installed a Subaru PS rack along with a TransAm steering shaft. I routed all of my steering linkages straight down and atop the drivers side frame rail. After looking at the pictures I have little doubt that I will have interference issues between the steering linkages and the header tubes as they loop out and over the frame rail. I will just utilize the block huggers that I have currently installed. My 1978 LSx 280Z is off to the exhaust shop monday for a 3" mandrel bent exhaust. Once installed the car will be brought to LG Motorsports in Wylie, TX for a dyno tune. I will snap some pictures and post once the exhaust is complete! Sorry I could not follow through with this.

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