tec280zx Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Yea, I found that link when I was searching for images of some various suspension setups. Those links kept me interested in doing the swap. Apparently a lot of z31 guys are doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) I do like the rear mounting idea in the first link. I might try to do it that way. I don't know where to get studs like that though. Edited May 1, 2011 by tec280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Mike G is having those custom machined for the kit he's selling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) I'm sure it's not imperative to have custom bolts made up. I saw what he is doing and was very tempted to buy the kit but as I am in AUS I think I'll just use it as inspiration :> also I know it makes it less reversible but I like the idea of the pins going through the rail. Edited May 1, 2011 by ovenfood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) I'm sure it's not imperative to have custom bolts made up. I saw what he is doing and was very tempted to buy the kit but as I am in AUS I think I'll just use it as inspiration :> also I know it makes it less reversible but I like the idea of the pins going through the rail. Yea, I figured they might be custom machined. I agree with mounting the studs through the rails though. Doesn't make it any less reversible since the stock sub frame doesn't have to mount in the rear. I think I'm probably going to weld in a tube into the rail that the studs can slide into. Without any extra support, the rails probably won't hold up to the force that's put on it. Very thin sheet metal. Future roll cage could maybe tie into these points too. I don't know just thinking out loud. I found some studs on McMaster-Carr that are the same diameter as the s13 mounts, just need to get a hold of stock thicker tubing to weld in. Right now I have nothing welded in for the sake of mouting it up and checking clearances. Kind of like how another member here mull did it. Instead of the square tubing it will be the cross rail. Edited May 1, 2011 by tec280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 The later subframe upgrade is pretty popular in Japan--most of the cars that came to the ZCON in Y2K which had RB Swaps has the R32/R33 subframe swap done to them. Tetsu Takakamo and his RB26 powered S130 may have used a Z32 subframe---I can't remember now which he said he used. I think one or more of them were Z32 subframe-converted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 This is how I was going to do the front mount (pic of a HR31 - front mount cut and a new section to e welded in) hopping it looks less dodgy if inspected :> any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 yea, I don't see why that wouldn't work. Getting it nice and straight will be the hardest part. Weld it, grind it, and paint it and they'll never know. Is that your car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 No I found it on R31.com or something similar. I'll be doing it on a mate's S130 first as I have kind of stopped most car related activity's (just bought a house....). But I am semi confident if I cut it right I can weld it on in a way that will make it look good (not going to explain it because more than likely I won't get it right and have to go another way :<). If all goes to plan me and soopakarr are going to sit down this week-end and work out what we need and get one of his S13 rears prepped so I can start the brackets/ spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Yea I have to let the bank account fill back up before I can continue. Probably next i'll buy the rear studs and other hardware, aluminum spacer, etc. In the meantime I need to get out to the wrecking yard and look for some Q45/J30 5 lug stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcer Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 You have no idea on how you just made my day. I'm planning to do the exact same to the rear of my ZX. I thank you now because you have shown that it'll be a little easier than I had anticipated. I will be following this closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Ok, having trouble finding some bolts for the rear mounts. The s13 measure 7/8 in. inside diamer. A 7/8 bolt won't fit and 3/4 leaves too much gap. I don't want the subframe to be able to move at while driving. So I look into metric sizes and 7/8 in. is 22.2 mm. So I look for a 22mm bolt but can't seem to find one locally. They have 22mm but not in the length I need. (about 200mm or 7 3/4in). Fastenal carries 22mm x 200mm bolts but they are like 36 bucks a pop. Wasn't trying to drop 70+ dollars on some bolts. Any experts out there think the 3/4in bolt would be ok once tightened up? I'm not usually cheap but a 3/4 bolt is about $5 vs 36. I guess I will if I have too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Get the 7/8, stick it in a drill/drill press, spin it up, apply 80 grit sand paper till at desired diameter, buff, apply corrosion inhibitor and paint (thinly). Bam! I know thats a little crass but it's cheap and it "will" work. Nissan stuff is always metric in my experience. In my opinion you may find it easier to pull the old pins of a S13/ most Nissan's and use them :> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 http://zilvia.net/f/z-chassis/371818-awd-s30z-build.html that link takes this idea to another place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I think i'm gonna try a small sanding drum and remove some material from the inside of the s13 sleeve. That might be easier than shaving down the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 The other option is always to order yourself aluminum bushes for the S13 cradle from a machine shop and get them to make the hole 7/8 :> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 True, I wish I could get some measurements on some solid bushings for the s13. Maybe the diameter is slightly larger. I know it is for the Z31. Solid bushings would ideal anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 knock yours out measure it up and go to your nearest machine shop :> win Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Not looking forward to removing the stock rubber bushings though. Just as bad as the s130 except theres 4 of them! Well I got the front ones out, but I wasn't using those anyways. I should just order solid bushings and take the bolts to a machine shop to have them opened up a bit to fit. Alright, I'm off to work now, been lagging too much this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tec280zx Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 A rough first draft of the rear mounting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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