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Everything posted by Dave

  1. The old thread was accidently deleted so we will just start a new one. To borrow a puller it will cost $20. The $20 is not a deposit, the money covers Priority Mail postage to you and prepaid postage to send the tool back. All I ask is that when you request a tool that your ready to use it and it gets returned ASAP so others will have a chance to borrow it. To return the tool all you will need to do is place the prepaid label on the Priority Mail box and set it out for the postman. There is no need to make a trip to the post office. jtmny1999 has just used the tool and is sending it back. He said that it took a total of 10 ten minutes to pull both spindle pins. If all goes well it is a easy job, however some pins can be real nasty. veritech-z was the last one to request a puller so the puller will soon be heading his way. At the moment this is the only loaner available unless some of the others start to turn up. To request a puller just reply to this thread and send me a PM.
  2. I just finished wiring a electric fuel pump to the stock wiring in my 71Z. The fuel pump wiring is already in the car from the factory. There are 2 wires taped with blue tape at the fuel level sender at the tank The black wire at the fuel pump is grounded to the chassis at some point between the pump and the dash. The green wire is + The other end is behind the radio taped to the harness with blue tape. To run the pump you simply need to supply 12+ to the green wire in the harness behind the radio. Its a mystery to me where the black wire in the harness behind the radio goes. There were already holes in the 71Z on the right side just in front of the tank that matched the 280Z pump bracket that I used. I used a Fram FRAM G-3 clear fuel filter between the pump and tank. Its $4 at the local Wall Mart store What I did on the rest of the wiring was to use the oil pressure switch to control the pump with the 3rd connection going to the starter solenoid to run the pump when its cranking since using the oil pressure only will prevent the pump from running until the car starts. Last but I felt most important I put a fuel pump inertia shut off switch in the car on the drivers kick panel and wired it between the fuel pump side of the relay and the green wire in the harness behind the radio. I did not cut up the harness I simply used a male spade connector and shoved it into the green side of the plug to make the connection. The inertia fuel pump shut off switch will shut off the power to the pump in the event you have a accident. It also will shut it off if you hit a speed bump going too fast. It happened to me once when I had the intertia switch under the hood. That is the reason I moved it in to the car where I can reach it. That one time is the only time it has shut off. The inertia switch has a reset button that you simply push to reset it. The inertia switch is from any fuel injected Ford from 1980-2000. its in the trunk on the left side behind a panel that is almost always marked that the emergency fuel cut off is behind it. Be shure to cut the harness as far back as you can when removing the switch. With out the 2 wire harness its going to be hard to connect A anti theft fuel pump switch can be placed before or after the inertia switch to cut power to the fuel pump if you want. Now I went 1 step further and used a second inertia fuel pump shut off switch to control a main battery solenoid shutoff. Instead of using a manual battery disconect like every one else uses I have a solenoid designed to disconnect the battery. The solenoid is the same one used on Piper, Cessna and Beechcraft to disconnect the battery when the aircraft are parked. The solenoid is 6 inches from the battery and I chose to disconnect the Positive cable. I was going to use it on the negative cable but I have the alternator output connected to the positive cable at the battery and the engine would still want to run in a accident for a short period of time if the negative was disconnected. This inertia switch is also on the drivers kick panel next to the one for the fuel system. In the event of a accident the battery will disconnect as will the fuel pump power. A simple double pole single throw toggle switch can be used as a emergency or antitheft switch. that will kill both battery and fuel. Or you can use a switch or each and hide it where ever you want. This is as fail safe as it gets with inertia switches and the battery positive being disconnected with in 6 inches of the battery. I have a picture of the aluminum plate (Soon to be painted black) that has both inertia switches and a double pole single throw disconnect switch between the inertia switches. The disconnect kills both the fuel pump and battery I used this aluminum plate so I could easly remove the complete assembly. Once painted its hard to see and the kill switch is hidded between the inertia switches. At this point its easy to put in a second set of switches if needed. I have a couple extra inertia fuel pump shut off switches if any one is looking to do this modification and does not want to go to a wrecking yard to get one. I may even be able to get some more of the battery disconnect relays. But at $40 each they are expensive!!!!
  3. Bought a fender roller a while back to use on my 71. Now that I am finished with it is there any interest in doing a loaner program like I do with the spindle pin pullers? Its not really a for rent program. I am thinking about charging shipping both ways like I do with the spindle pin pullers. __________________
  4. pin puiller

  5. http://www.tothepointnews.com/content/view/3617/85/
  6. In the process of making my battery cables because I can't find ready made ones I really like. I have fine strand welding cable that I will use but when it comes to lug crimping I see that some solder, some crimp and solder and some are crimped only. I would think crimping alone would be good enough but I see 3 different crimp styles, indent crimping tool that uses a hammer and there's a diamond crimper that gives a square crimp and the last one is a hex crimper that is 6 sided. What have others been doing to put both ends on their battery cables.
  7. Dave

    Battery cable lug crimping

    I did not mention it in the starting post but there is a distribution block with a 5/16" stud on the firewall that is used for the lead to the starter and the power tap for the add-ons. I plan to move the battery later and I will start at the distribution block. For the time being the battery is in the stock location. With the lead to the starter that is hex crimped there is no room for solder, and I don't think soldering and crimping is the way to go. When I bought the welding lead and lugs they offered to crimp them and the finished product looks well done.
  8. Dave

    Ssrasota Florida Help

    Is there someone in or close to Sarasota that can help me get something small shipped back to Oregon? PM me and I have further details about what the seller does not want to ship.
  9. Dave

    Would this tick you off?

    I was going to buy that same 3 Way Connect from him until I found it was still available from Nissan for less than $12. It seems that a lot of his stuff is from Nissan at 3X the price. http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=46313-68201
  10. I have bought tools from HF, some were good and some were so-so. I see that they have a Inside Track Club Member area that is just less than $10 a year that is supposed to give discounts/specials not available to the general public. Does any one here belong to it or have a commercial account? I could also open up a commercial account. I am looking for someone that has personal experience with either a inside track club membership or a commercial account.
  11. Dave

    5 Levels Of Lucky

  12. I saw the different prices also, I bought the 6" stainless digital calipers for $7.99 last weekend. I have 2 different catalogs with 2 different prices, $19.99, $17.49 and then found a internet price at $9.99 all the same SKU. I had a 20% off coupon that got it down to $7.99. I have several of the HF stores here in town and not al of them will honer the Internet price, but one store always has.
  13. Dave

    Don't order from sportsmansguide.com

    Wow... I just tried smith and my 97220 zip and it gave me a bunch of items a Michele Smith bought
  14. Dave

    Cutting Exhaust Tubing

    I personally would not do it. If you have a harborfreight near you buy one of their cheap reciprocating saws $39 (sawzall knock off) and it can handle all you want to do. My best guess is the wood miter saw is going to be damanged because it is not really made to do that.
  15. Dave

    Cutting Exhaust Tubing

    Not a wood working miter saw!!!! The sparks and heat from the abrasive cutoff wheel will melt the plastic blade guard and all the plastic that is close.
  16. Dave

    Cutting Exhaust Tubing

    I have the Makita version of that saw, it's a 12" cold cutter with the tripple chip carbide blade. The big difference between the cold cutters and abrasive cutter is the rpms, cold cutters spins at a slow 1300 rpm and the abrasive cutters are 3800 rpm.
  17. Dave

    Drill press recommendations? Either cheap/used!

    Once the part your drilling comes after you the foot switch will make a believer out of you.
  18. Dave

    Drill press recommendations? Either cheap/used!

    When I bought mine years ago I replaced the motor with a reversable one so I can drill/tap stuff and then back the tap out. I also put a foot switch on it to free up both hands. The time will come when your part that your working on will get away from you and you wished you could turn the drill press off real fast. With the foot switch I can just tap it for better control and the motor has a lot more torque when on the starter winding A cross slide vice is very usefull as is a V block. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32997 http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=2182&keyword=43369&cm_mmc=undefined
  19. Any more pictures of the mirror? is it plastic or metal?
  20. Paul, Did you get the brakes working? and did they bleed OK? I was going to mount my PV in the same location but was not sure if running the line above the MC and back down would create a area for a air pocket to develop.
  21. Dave

    Metric Brake Adaptor

    Looking at your picture of your PV I see that you have a couple caps on your master cylinder with hoses leading to the reservoir. What are they from?
  22. This is the AGS (American Grease Stick) part numbers for the 10mm X 1.0 Japanese flare nut. Still going to be hard to find, but with these numbers they may be able to cross them over. BLF-40C-5 - Carded (5 fittings per card/10 cards per case) BLF-40B - Individually Bagged (1 fitting per bag/10 bags per case) BLFX-40 - Bulk/Boxed (100 fittings per case/box) BLF-40 - Bulk/Bagged (10 fittings per case/bag)
  23. My 240Z has a 12SI that is mid mounted on a 70's 350 with a Alan Grove bracket designed for the electric water pump. I am upgrading to a CS144 140 Amp alternator because with everything running there is not any reserve left with the 12SI. The CS144 adjusting ear misses the adjusting slot in the bracket. I can make another bracket using just the water pump holes and the mounting/pivot hole at the top, that will be the easiest. I then have to make some kind of adjuster. What have others done to make this all go together with the least amount of fuss? The first picture is a 12SI installed, the CS144 will need to have the adjusting slot lower. The second picture is a Alan Grove mount for the rear of the alternator for a small block without bolt holes in the head. Kinda looks like with spacers it can be used for the front of the alternator. But I still need a belt adjuster of some type.
  24. Dave

    Help! Brakes lines

    Ya talking about the S shaped bridge tube?
  25. Are they the chrome mirrors? If they are the dealer installed mirrors or black pearl mirrors this link may be of help. http://www.v8-240z.com/Files/Datsun/Mirrors/Z_Car_Mirror_Repair.htm