G-Tech

i was hoping someone else would check in since my info is all over this thread but not sure since there isnt many out there. ive seen 2 or 3 that have been finished but not much if any info from them in a while. and a few more that are in the same boat you are. the problem with the oil pan is on most of them, the front of the pan and the rear sump hang too low. my front is so shallow on mine that i cant run a stroker motor but it allowed me to get the motor low enuff. on most pans, the rear sump ends up below the crossmember and become the lowest part of the car. the one from Canton just had all the right dimensions and 5+ years ago that was the only one. look up the dimensions for canton pan and see what might be out there now. the dirty dingo mounts can probably work but mostlikly will require some sort of mods. the mounting holes on a LS end up behind the crossmember so you will mount the motor mounts to the cross member then you will need a plate that moves the mounting holes towards the rear of the car. the ones dirty dingo has for the older Z's looks like thats what it does but note that the older Z's are different so its not going to be exact. good luck, anything is possible if your able to put in the work.

That is definitely a different steering rack then mine. Might help for clearing the manifolds. Block huggers would run right into that box. That's strang how different the rack is. Similar shaft but your right how it stays over the frame more. That's good

thank you much. i hope to have it back and driving in 2 months. just intime to drive it a couple times then tuck it away for the winter. im sure you might have noticed the gas cap beeing a fellow s130 owner. there was also engine bay smoothing out, shaved blinkers front bumper for blinkers built into headlights, some other mods and a yet to be reveled new design of tail lights.

how are you making out with the storm? i hope all is ok

here is a sign of something new. this was yesterday. now the road of reassembly starts. so glad that step is over, it was many many hours...

keep trucking along. there will be plenty of speed bumps. there is no road blocks though. i still have my first header set up that i would be willing to part with. i have a set of hooker manifolds modified for the steering shaft and a set of block huggers for the pass side. neither will fit on both sides. i think $300 plus shipping would be fair cause i would have to sell you both sets cause what would i do with one and one. but both sets are ceramic coated and holding up well. thats about the only set that will bolt up. or you do what i did and buy sets from jegs and return them if they dont fit but i tried them all but if you mount your motor slightly different then mine, mayb something different will fit. the steering shaft is biggest deal and the brake lines on pass side is why the manifolds wont work on that side. i had a small block chevy in first and they have block huggers that merge into one collector really quick and thats why they fit around steering shaft. LS block huggers dont merge into one until further down and there is no cramming 4 pipes between shaft and frame rail. i did it with billy boat headers but was alot of modifying. let me know, goodluck.....

If your talking about the brushed stainless looking ones then yes...my 83 2 seater t-top came with the black ones and I switched to the stainless looking ones ..just make sure they come with the little piece that mounts to the top of that cover cause they are the same color.

AWESOME!!! welcome to the club. if your on a budget this build is kind of pushing it but you did great picking up an auto trans. its going to be less wear and tear on the rear end and half shafts and your suspension will be ok for now. you may get a little too much squat in the rear but you can figure that out later. beeing on a budget means you will have to do some extra research to figure out how to keep what you have. like figuring out what gauges you can keep. you will have to upgrade fuel pump but you might get lucky and be able to keep your stock fuel lines. you will wanna check out the LS forums for info on some of that. the car will love having that motor though. it will still be light and handle well and 300hp will get you a great improvement. start with getting as much info, parts and planning you can before you make the "no going back" move :)... looks like you have a very clean car to start with. feel free to ask me questions along the way. i have a big change to mine finally happening this weekend that ill post, nothing to do with the motor though. im all done in that category for right now

isnt it nice to finally see some color!?!? this was yesterday for me. now the anticipation of waiting to do the outside. goodluck with the rest of it, im sure it will be nice

yes, showcars has terrible rep, i found out first hand. and aftermaket sheet metal always seems thinner than OEM. my aftermarket fender will get waves in the top from people resting their hands on it. (i know, people shouldnt be leaning on my fender but it happens and my OEM fender handles it). if you can find a good used fender the metal will be thick and your fitment should be best compared to aftermarket. but if you cant then you do what you gotta do

Obviously it is gonna need alot of work if its $500. And it might not be worth ever making it a serious build but if it has potential to run and drive and you just wanna play around with something, what better can u do with $500 and have a rear wheel drive platform...a long as you know you might double your investment and invest some labor just to get it kinda reliable toy then have at it