G-Tech

welcome to the odd ball s130 club. thats exactly what my car started as (exterior and interior)..if your on a budget, spend your money wisely. these are hard cars to do on the cheap. stay away from showcars.com for any fiberglass parts. those wheels are 14x6 with 0-offset. the only things your gonna get to replace them cheap is some standard steel wheels. id start with getting it running first. atleast at that point you could get more money for it if you decide to sell it. not a quick car for todays standards but they are very fun cars to drive. and as you have been informed, almost nothing on them relates to a 240,260,or even a 280z. they dont look so cool with the bumpers off like the older ones do. but hey everyone has a taste. enjoy whatever you do and good luck with it.

try them, think they have what you need...you will run into trouble when you need door weatherstripping or if you have t-tops and need the rubber that mounts to the car https://zcarsource.com/weatherstrip-seals/weatherstrip-280zx/hatch-seals-bumper

i was hoping someone else would check in since my info is all over this thread but not sure since there isnt many out there. ive seen 2 or 3 that have been finished but not much if any info from them in a while. and a few more that are in the same boat you are. the problem with the oil pan is on most of them, the front of the pan and the rear sump hang too low. my front is so shallow on mine that i cant run a stroker motor but it allowed me to get the motor low enuff. on most pans, the rear sump ends up below the crossmember and become the lowest part of the car. the one from Canton just had all the right dimensions and 5+ years ago that was the only one. look up the dimensions for canton pan and see what might be out there now. the dirty dingo mounts can probably work but mostlikly will require some sort of mods. the mounting holes on a LS end up behind the crossmember so you will mount the motor mounts to the cross member then you will need a plate that moves the mounting holes towards the rear of the car. the ones dirty dingo has for the older Z's looks like thats what it does but note that the older Z's are different so its not going to be exact. good luck, anything is possible if your able to put in the work.

That is definitely a different steering rack then mine. Might help for clearing the manifolds. Block huggers would run right into that box. That's strang how different the rack is. Similar shaft but your right how it stays over the frame more. That's good

thank you much. i hope to have it back and driving in 2 months. just intime to drive it a couple times then tuck it away for the winter. im sure you might have noticed the gas cap beeing a fellow s130 owner. there was also engine bay smoothing out, shaved blinkers front bumper for blinkers built into headlights, some other mods and a yet to be reveled new design of tail lights.

how are you making out with the storm? i hope all is ok

here is a sign of something new. this was yesterday. now the road of reassembly starts. so glad that step is over, it was many many hours...

keep trucking along. there will be plenty of speed bumps. there is no road blocks though. i still have my first header set up that i would be willing to part with. i have a set of hooker manifolds modified for the steering shaft and a set of block huggers for the pass side. neither will fit on both sides. i think $300 plus shipping would be fair cause i would have to sell you both sets cause what would i do with one and one. but both sets are ceramic coated and holding up well. thats about the only set that will bolt up. or you do what i did and buy sets from jegs and return them if they dont fit but i tried them all but if you mount your motor slightly different then mine, mayb something different will fit. the steering shaft is biggest deal and the brake lines on pass side is why the manifolds wont work on that side. i had a small block chevy in first and they have block huggers that merge into one collector really quick and thats why they fit around steering shaft. LS block huggers dont merge into one until further down and there is no cramming 4 pipes between shaft and frame rail. i did it with billy boat headers but was alot of modifying. let me know, goodluck.....