G-Tech

If your talking about the brushed stainless looking ones then yes...my 83 2 seater t-top came with the black ones and I switched to the stainless looking ones ..just make sure they come with the little piece that mounts to the top of that cover cause they are the same color.

AWESOME!!! welcome to the club. if your on a budget this build is kind of pushing it but you did great picking up an auto trans. its going to be less wear and tear on the rear end and half shafts and your suspension will be ok for now. you may get a little too much squat in the rear but you can figure that out later. beeing on a budget means you will have to do some extra research to figure out how to keep what you have. like figuring out what gauges you can keep. you will have to upgrade fuel pump but you might get lucky and be able to keep your stock fuel lines. you will wanna check out the LS forums for info on some of that. the car will love having that motor though. it will still be light and handle well and 300hp will get you a great improvement. start with getting as much info, parts and planning you can before you make the "no going back" move :)... looks like you have a very clean car to start with. feel free to ask me questions along the way. i have a big change to mine finally happening this weekend that ill post, nothing to do with the motor though. im all done in that category for right now

isnt it nice to finally see some color!?!? this was yesterday for me. now the anticipation of waiting to do the outside. goodluck with the rest of it, im sure it will be nice

yes, showcars has terrible rep, i found out first hand. and aftermaket sheet metal always seems thinner than OEM. my aftermarket fender will get waves in the top from people resting their hands on it. (i know, people shouldnt be leaning on my fender but it happens and my OEM fender handles it). if you can find a good used fender the metal will be thick and your fitment should be best compared to aftermarket. but if you cant then you do what you gotta do

Obviously it is gonna need alot of work if its $500. And it might not be worth ever making it a serious build but if it has potential to run and drive and you just wanna play around with something, what better can u do with $500 and have a rear wheel drive platform...a long as you know you might double your investment and invest some labor just to get it kinda reliable toy then have at it

i think you will be in good shape "IF" you make sure those things are good that i mentioned. if it has more rust, which i think you will find it does, or if the engine isnt running right, then its not $4k car in my opinion. and it would have to be tip-top shape to be worth $6k. like i said, the 280zx is not a very valuable car if its not a turbo model

make sure its solid and get the engine issue solved. if you have either of those issues then it might be a Project Car. best of luck. if it checks out, then you will have a nice fair weather ride

your not really giving enough info to put a value on it. you listed a couple problems that make it sound like its going to have more issues when you really dig in. what i can tell you is the 280zx is more of the odd ball of z's so they are not all that valuable unless they are turbo models or in really great shape. that particular engine setup has alot going on so figuring out engine issues is tricky. check underneath, they are very known for floor rot and "frame rails" like to rot from underneath seating area and back towards the rear. also the rear quarter panel at the bottom in front of the wheel also rots. i say make sure the body is solid, when you find rust there is usually more and can easily turn into a nightmare, and tell him to get engine fixed. you "might" be ok with $4k if all that checks out. and also all depends on what you wanna do with it. its a great driver when things are sorted out and has alot of comforts like pwr windows and a/c and pwr steering . there is not as much aftermarket parts for it as all the other models . good luck, let us know what you do

my first thought also but the pocket they sit in is pretty shallow. dont think you will get much depth if you go down n with the vents. my 2 cents would be to make it a single raised vent kinda like how they do on top of fenders to release wheel well pressure. the one you developed looks exactly like rear window louvers, which if you have them and like them then your spot on. i dont care for them so thats were my dislike comes in....i will say though im very happy to see someone doing something with the s130's. so keep doing what your doing!!!

evasive motorsports has a wide selection. i got blue forged alum lugnuts from them and they have been just fine for at least 5 years now. ive been drag racing, and roadcoarse racing with them on. just check torque a few times after installing them.

i looked at using those headers cause they use them on newer z/28's so they must make power. i decided not to cause the primary tubes can be real small at different points(like 1-1/2in). i went with these billy boat c5 shorty headers (1-5/8 primaries). im supposed to be around 440whp but ended up at 405whp. my tuner said if i had 1 3/4in or even 1-7/8 primaries and long tubes that i could do alot better. i just dont have the room in my s130. basically with my ls6 intake and dart heads, im getting air in, just not getting it out. every winter i think i need to do something about it, then spring comes and i take it for a rip and realize its got plenty of power..i think you will be happy with those, they have to flow really good if they run them on z/28's

Rock auto worked fine for mine...

Assuming your master cyl is an upgraded one based on all the other mods you have. You probably are confident that's not the problem...I'd say start with the check valve (easier fix) then there isn't many other options than the booster....when my booster went, it was after sitting all winter and the first time I got in it the pedal just fell to the floor and I ended up with brake fluid In the booster ...good lock, let us know what you find.hope this helps, I didn't see anyone else chiming in so figured I'd give you some kind of input

looks amazing as always. love the new wheels. what sizes are you fitting on there? i run 17x7 225/45/17 up front and 17x8 235/45/17 rear, 0-offset all around. mine looks like this right now. no more black n chrome, lots changing

Didn't see the need to cap the end off the back, maybe you can't see it but there a block welded to the subframe that drops down and welded to the top of the bar... the front is angle cut and hammered up so it's wedge shaped...I have heard the same about stainless welded to steel but we Did use stainless wire ,primed and seem sealed it and it's been good for 10yrs. I'm always under the car doing things and would see if there was issue...its what we came up with for frame ties and I'm happy with them. Every time the car has been dynoed they use them for strapping the car down even.

i have a s130 which is always different than the older z's but i made my own frame ties by welding stainless 1x3 to the bottom of the frame rails. welded one end to the front main engine bay frame rail and connected them to the rear subframe. i have been beating on the car with a LS swap for 10yrs and they held the car nice and straight.

i have a r-200 from a 280zxt with 3.54 gears and quaife internals, z31 turbo half shafts and custom stub axles. i wouldnt change a thing. its in a 280zx with a LS motor with 405whp. i have been beating on the rear end for 10yrs now with a LS motor and 6-speed. i dont know what car your doing but if its a s30 then it worries me about the 4.08 gears. im sure its not a s-130 cause there isnt too many of us odd balls out there. but with mine i dont have as many options but im completely happy. i think with the horsepower your planning you will be fine with most options, just make sure its limited slip. if your doing stick shift car then your first concern will be half shafts and stub axles. im not a pro like some people on here so there may be someone wiser than me out there. good luck

what year? im sure its not a s130 but figured id ask

amazing car in every part of it!!! what color is that?

Thank you. Not too many s130's done to that level. Good too see

very cool, thank you for the info. good luck getting the rest of the car finished. i heard those holley sniper FI kits are very nice.

Looks great!!! Great choice in color. How did you come to choose orange for a base coat? Was the kandy base coat difficult to work with, did you notice it gets darker the more coats you put down like a true kandy? I'm doing a similar color with the same kandy base coat line. Would appreciate anything you learned about using it. Looks like you did real good

Yup, I was wrong...